Vamo V5 18650 question

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Keeferes

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Hello all. Obviously new to the ECF. Been reading and searching tons here, and watching the usual's on Youtube, such as Phil, Dimitris, Nick, etc. I am about 5 weeks new into vaping. Trying to squash a 25 year analog habit. Going pretty well for now. As more info given tends to yield a much better answer, this post is somewhat wordy. I apologize in advance, but hey no such thing as too much information right?

I started off with a 900maH Kanger Evod bat, using Evod clearomizers with 2.5 heads. I do have an Anyvape Davide with Kanger heads, but my ego is bluntly a joke with this tank, so it is in the box for a bit. It's come to a point where I am simply not happy with the performance of my ego system so I am upgrading and moving on. This brings me to my new PV on its way.

Ordered a stainless Vamo V5, 2 Efest 18650 Flat Tops, Trustfire tr-001 charger, and a Kanger Protank II. I know all my current tanks fit the Vamo. Also have some 30 gage Kanthal A-1, and some 2mm Silica on the way for rebuilding. I will be mostly working out cotton wick builds with micro coils, but wanted some silica in case I become frustrated while working out my amount of cotton. I also plan on upgrading my batteries to AW's, and maybe exploring some 18350 configs. That's later though. After all this rambling of background info, I finally have my question.

Should I use a safety fuse in the Vamo or not? I appreciate the feedback, and look forward to becoming part of this great community.

EDIT: If my understanding is correct, I should only need this in mechanical mods, as the circuitry of the Vamo has protection already against soft shorts, of which the fuse would not handle anyways.
 
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Dakota Jim

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no safety fuse needed in regulated mods like the vamo, svd, provari,, etc

the electronic board in these devices is your safety fuse as it regulates the voltage and will shut down if at certain high or low voltages, low ohms on coil, and high amp draw from the battery

safety fuses are needed on mechanical devices only (these are basically a 510 connector on top, battery in the middle, and a mechanical (thus the name) switch on the bottom to prevent amp runaway or thermal runaway by the battery (which leads to the battery venting - which is a bad, bad thing)

and welcome to the ECF
9pribk.gif
295xrtd.gif
9pribk.gif


edit - and this was very helpful on my learning to rebuild kanger protank heads
Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube
 
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Ahoy

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no safety fuse needed in regulated mods like the vamo, svd, provari,, etc

the electronic board in these devices is your safety fuse as it regulates the voltage and will shut down if at certain high or low voltages, low ohms on coil, and high amp draw from the battery

safety fuses are needed on mechanical devices only (these are basically a 510 connector on top, battery in the middle, and a mechanical (thus the name) switch on the bottom to prevent amp runaway or thermal runaway by the battery (which leads to the battery venting - which is a bad, bad thing)

and welcome to the ECF
9pribk.gif
295xrtd.gif
9pribk.gif


edit - and this was very helpful on my learning to rebuild kanger protank heads
Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube

This 100%, the vamo is a regulated mod.
 

Rickajho

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not sure if there's a connector difference with vamo v3 and v5. but my v3 the positive post wasn't long enough in order to touch the battery's positive post if were using flat top batteries.

Does it have the "skinny" spring that's only in the center of the cap? (Versus a spring that goes all the way to the edge of the cap.) If it has the small spring it should be replaced anyway. That should help with the flat top battery issues as well.
 

EBates

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The connector on the v2, v3, and v5 are the same, own one of each. Verify the 510 threads as soon as you get your new Vamo's. in the 10 or so that I've bought for my wife, self and friends, 2 have had bad 510 threads. The Vamo and a Protank/Puritank is my vape of choice. Other than the thread issues already stated my vamo's have been bullet proof. Good luck with yours.
Additional note: al of the vamo's I've received resently are in 01 AVG/Mean mode upon receipt. Be sure to set it to RMS before you start vaping. My experience is you'll get lots of burnt vapes if you don't.

Additional info: Batteries
I use both button top and flat top 18650 batteries in my vamo's with no issues (panasonic, samsung, ultrafire, tangsfire brands).
18350 button and flat top in short mode (single battery) work fine. However, in long mode (two batteries stacked) the button top 18350's are a force fit in some cases.

Happy Vaping
 
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Keeferes

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The connector on the v2, v3, and v5 are the same, own one of each. Verify the 510 threads as soon as you get your new Vamo's. in the 10 or so that I've bought for my wife, self and friends, 2 have had bad 510 threads. The Vamo and a Protank/Puritank is my vape of choice. Other than the thread issues already stated my vamo's have been bullet proof. Good luck with yours.
Additional note: al of the vamo's I've received resently are in 01 AVG/Mean mode upon receipt. Be sure to set it to RMS before you start vaping. My experience is you'll get lots of burnt vapes if you don't.

LoL. I actually Have a post it note stuck on my desk above my laptop so I don't forget in my excitement of opening the box. I have so many goodys coming I'm gonna be like Ralphie with a new Red Rider.

On the battery issue stated... I haven't heard that about them. The vendor actually recommended flattop to me for the 18650, but recommended button top on the 18350, and said especially if I will be stacking. I will only be on 18650's for now, but is that a good recommendation for the 18350's as well? I will be buying some down the road, so want the right stuff with least amount of aggravation.
 
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DaveP

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Everyone's right on. VV and VW mods shut down with over voltage or wattage. Only mechs need to be calculated to make sure you don't go over in wattage/amperage draw. Most of the mechs have a sacrificial battery spring that softens with too much current and sags to safely remove battery contact if you go too high in current draw.
 

Keeferes

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Also, even though the vv mods are regulated, you should invest in quality batteries from a reputable vendor, such as AW18650s from RTD vapor.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

I am using Efest for now, and ordering some Pannys and some AW later this month.

All very good advice given and the only :2c: I would offer is to upgrade your Trustfire tr-001 charger to a Nitecore i2 Intellicharger. The Trustfire tr-001 charger takes a long time to charge batts and is not the best quality. Do NOT charge your batts unattended.

That is on my list when I upgrade my batteries, and yeah I never even leave my Ego unattended. I also ordered a safe charge bag with everything.

own coil even on the PT2 - I make and like it too :toast:

Got my rebuild supplies on the way, and loads of heads to tinker with until I find my sweet spot. Hoping I enjoy cotton as much as everyone seems to, but I'm still on BCC's so we shall see. I ordered some Silica just be safe. I know that works for me. lol.

EDIT: I have a mini torch coming too, because I have seen to many tutorials using them to not at least try. lol.
 
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