Variable voltage or variable wattage

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jblindy

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I'm ready to take the next step and purchase something a little better than my Ego. I've been doing some research on VV/VW mods and I've been reading that VW is better than VV as you can just set the wattage and the voltage is automatically determined for the Ohms of your atomizer. If this is true, why have VV? What is the benefit?

Also, what would be the best bang for my buck with a self imposed $100 spending limit on mod, battery, and tank?
 

p.opus

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Variable Voltage gives you more fine control over the output of your battery. Someone here said it's like the difference between an automatic transmission over a manual transmission.

Some people like the battery to control the output voltage, some people like to control it themselves.

Best bang for Buck?

I suggest the following

1 MVP 2
(42.95 to 45.95 depending on color choice here: Itaste MVP 2 0 ICLEAR30 Kit Newest Version from Innokin Free Shipping | eBay)


2 Mini Protank 2's
1 Replacement Glass for mini protank 2
5 replacement heads (2.5 ohm) for Mini Protank 2's
40 bucks Including shipping here: (Sun Vapers is a premium Kanger reseller in San Diego County.)

For 90 bucks you get a nice VV/VW APV with 2600 mAh battery that will last at least 2 days between charges. You get two nice tanks that are super easy to clean and dry. A replacement glass insert in case you break the glass in one of the protanks. The 5 replacement heads add to the 4 that come with the mini protank 2's. So you have some heads to last you.
 

jblindy

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Variable Voltage gives you more fine control over the output of your battery. Someone here said it's like the difference between an automatic transmission over a manual transmission.

Some people like the battery to control the output voltage, some people like to control it themselves.

Best bang for Buck?

I suggest the following

1 MVP 2
(42.95 to 45.95 depending on color choice here: Itaste MVP 2 0 ICLEAR30 Kit Newest Version from Innokin Free Shipping | eBay)


2 Mini Protank 2's
1 Replacement Glass for mini protank 2
5 replacement heads (2.5 ohm) for Mini Protank 2's
40 bucks Including shipping here: (Sun Vapers is a premium Kanger reseller in San Diego County.)

For 90 bucks you get a nice VV/VW APV with 2600 mAh battery that will last at least 2 days between charges. You get two nice tanks that are super easy to clean and dry. A replacement glass insert in case you break the glass in one of the protanks. The 5 replacement heads add to the 4 that come with the mini protank 2's. So you have some heads to last you.

But if in VW mode, the device checks the ohms of the coil you are using and determines the correct voltage for use with that coil? How much more fine tuning can you do?

And thanks for the mod suggestion but I'm not big on the box mods. Right now, I'm looking at the Siglelei Zmax 3. Seems to get good reviews.
 

p.opus

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Variable wattage only changes in .5 watt increments where as voltage can be adjusted in .1 increments.

3.3 volts to 5.0 volts equals 18 adjustments.
6.0 watts to 11.0 watts equals 11 adjustments.

Therefore you have the ability to fine tune the battery in vv more.

VW is a matter of preference for many. One is not better than the other. It is two separate ways to get to the desired result.

I understand your opinion on box mods. I used to think the same way. I bought an itaste VV3 first. However, after getting used to holding the MVP, the long battery life won me over.

There are no right or wrong answers, just what is right for you. For me, the MVP2 gives the best bang for the buck. VV/VW, long lasting battery, simple charging via micro USB, USB passthrough in a pinch, the ability to use the MVP as an external power supply for other devices....

Each person has there own likes and dislikes. Don't rely to much on other's opinions.
 

MD_Boater

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I find that if I run my MVP2 in VV mode, or use my twist eGo batteries that I have to adjust the voltage for the proper taste every time that I switch tanks or change juice. Not to mention the need to make minor adjustments as the battery gets weaker. If I run the MVP in VW mode, I find that I can set the wattage for the tank/juice combination that I am using and leave it alone.

If you have a choice between a VV only or a VV/VW device, I would always go with the VW one. They provide more consistency.
 

Thrasher

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it is important to note VV has a 2 year head start and is more widely in use. so when VW came alone it is expected they wont just simple abandon one system for another when they can have two in the same device offering a slightly different experience.

while it is true vw does adjust itself it isnt a magical set and forget type of system like some describe it. even then many of the cheaper devices only check and adjust when you first press the button so in a sense it still isnt adjusting anything while the coil is getting hotter and resistance drifts.

so depending on the system and the device you are using you may or may not see the benefit of using one over the other which is why we are still offered both choices.

the best example of a benefit to vw would be your using the same coil for a week the coil gets crud baked on it and the resistance goes up, with a VV you may bump up the voltage a point or two, with the VW system it will sense this and adjust for you.

two streets to the same destination so to speak.
 

jblindy

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it is important to note VV has a 2 year head start and is more widely in use. so when VW came alone it is expected they wont just simple abandon one system for another when they can have two in the same device offering a slightly different experience.

while it is true vw does adjust itself it isnt a magical set and forget type of system like some describe it. even then many of the cheaper devices only check and adjust when you first press the button so in a sense it still isnt adjusting anything while the coil is getting hotter and resistance drifts.

so depending on the system and the device you are using you may or may not see the benefit of using one over the other which is why we are still offered both choices.

the best example of a benefit to vw would be your using the same coil for a week the coil gets crud baked on it and the resistance goes up, with a VV you may bump up the voltage a point or two, with the VW system it will sense this and adjust for you.

two streets to the same destination so to speak.

Thanks, that makes sense.
 

Ed_C

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Variable wattage only changes in .5 watt increments where as voltage can be adjusted in .1 increments.
Just saying that the increments for watts is 0.5 and volts is 0.1 while true, is not the whole story. As I'm sure you know, the volts are squared (P=V^2/R). So if you change the watts by 0.5W the volts will change about 1.3V-1.5V depending on resistance. So voltage is a slightly more fine adjustment, but it's not 1/5. But I know you know this. :)
 

UncleChuck

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You can't really judge VW based on the limitations of a specific device. There are VV devices out there where you can only adjust between 3 or so predetermined voltage settings, that doesn't mean VV in general only allows you to do that.

The DNA mods change by .1 watt, that's far finer than any VV device on the market. So if we are going to judge VW and VV by specific devices, VW offers more fine tuning than VV does. But that's not really an honest way of comparing the two.

Both have their advantages in certain situations. On devices like the Vamo, Zmax, etc you can get more power when using voltage mode compared to wattage mode. With stacked 18350s, in voltage mode, depending on your resistance you can push 20+ watts of power while still coming in under the device's amp limit. In VW mode, the device obviously limits you to 15 watts. In VV mode you are only limited by the available voltage and amp limit of the device.

Also, when using RBAs, the whole wattage advantage (set and forget) starts falling apart even worse than when using commercially produced coils. It's a huge hassle, for me personally, using VW with RBAs, as wattage means next to nothing when you have so many more variables compared to commercial stuff. Set the device to 10 watts, one atty I build to 1.5 ohms will be hot, the other will be cold. Resistance isn't a reliable way of "measuring" an RBAs, and resistance is the only variable being taken into account with VW calculation.

It's all just personal preference and depends on your own vaping style and setup, and the specific VV/VW device being considered.
 

Thrasher

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Also, when using RBAs, the whole wattage advantage (set and forget) starts falling apart even worse than when using commercially produced coils. It's a huge hassle, for me personally, using VW with RBAs, as wattage means next to nothing when you have so many more variables compared to commercial stuff. Set the device to 10 watts, one atty I build to 1.5 ohms will be hot, the other will be cold. Resistance isn't a reliable way of "measuring" an RBAs, and resistance is the only variable being taken into account with VW calculation.

+1......................
 

mackman

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I have both and have a lot of toppers (with a variety of different resistance coils) loaded because I change flavors all the time. If I want to be lazy I use the DNA 20 VW if not the VV devices. Although it only takes seconds to dial in the VV device. I still tend to dial in either device for the juice I'm vaping and the topper to some degree.
 
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Thrasher

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Looks like I need to go back to school and do some learnin', cause these last two posts went into the stratosphere as far as my understanding of electrical theory goes. Feeling really stupid right now.

LOL school sucks.
know what i do?

I build a coil, say it comes out to 1.7 ohms. I add 2 so in this case I set my voltage to 3.7v
hmm almost perfect every time maybe up the V a little after a few test pulls lol
no math
no ohms law calculators
no worrying what my pv says is right

and I still enjoy my vapes
 

SirSteve

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Both get where you are going, use Thrasher's method above and it will get you close to where you want to be. I also have both types of devices, I use VW on the ones that have it. The ones that don't, I use the same method described above, add two to the resistance.

Truth is, no matter which one I use, I still find myself fine tuning, VW gets you closer when changing toppers. Either way works for me, I tend to adjust either one according to taste and my mood at the time. The price range you are looking has a lot of devices that can do both, so which one you use is up to you.
 

Baditude

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None of my five regulated mods have variable wattage - all have only VV. I use the above "ohm + 2 = volts" method. I then adjust the voltage in increments up or down (if needed) to the juice's specific "sweet spot". Most of my flavors taste best at a different voltage setting. Why would I want to use the same set wattage for all of these flavors? Adjustments still need to be made.

I really have no use for VW. I choose my toppers wisely, in the same resistance range for my PV's (2.5 - 3.0 ohm). The few clearomizers that I use that are 2.0 ohm, I still use the above ohm + 2 = volts rule. What is so hard about that? Even if I had VW, I'd still be making adjustments to the flavor that I'm using. I change flavors 3 - 4 times a day, I'm making adjustments to each one.

I personally see VW as a "bell & whistle" feature. I see more people that have the option to use either one prefer VV over VW. I wouldn't choose a mod based solely on the variable wattage feature as a game changer.
 
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