Volt/Watt/Amp???

[ckn71nm]

Regardless how deep the water wheel is dipped into the river?

Ok so let's say the water wheel is about 20 feet diameter, and the paddles are 2 foot long, so the paddles can go down as low as 2 feet.

Lower the wheel so the paddle bare touches the surface 1 inch. The wheel isn't going to turn much. Most of the water is just going to flow underneath, so the paddle isn't really blocking the water.

The paddles are 2 feet long, and also 2 feet wide, and you force the water to flow within a 2 foot wide channel into which you are lowering the paddles of the wheel. Totally lowering the wheel causes the paddles to completely block the channel.

Still doesn't change the fact that if the wheel is only 1 inch in the water if the water flows faster it will turn faster.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

 

[eda123]

And it does. The battery is heating up and so is the rest of the circuitry. The coil most of all because the heat has only very little material to work on

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

yep. And the coil is the largest resistance in the circuit. Therefore generates the most heat.

 

[eda123]

Still doesn't change the fact that if the wheel is only 1 inch in the water if the water flows faster it will turn faster.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

correct. All three things are needed. The speed of the water (current) the size/depth of the paddles (resistance), and how much pressure is coming from the source (voltage).

 

[edyle]

And it does. The battery is heating up and so is the rest of the circuitry. The coil most of all because the heat has only very little material to work on

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Why does the coil get red hot?

Why doesn't the wiring in houses get red hot?

 

[Mitey F]

Why does the coil get red hot?

Why doesn't the wiring in houses get red hot?

Oh geez... In a house, you're running 120(ish) volts, AC, with fairly low current loads most of the time, and you're running wire with a very very low resistance (copper). It's not resistance wire, which is designed specifically to heat. You should go do some reading on basic circuit theory methinks.

 

[ckn71nm]

Why does the coil get red hot?

Because the resistance is very high.

Why doesn't the wiring in houses get red hot?

Because they are rated for a much larger current as far as I know. That rating is achieved by making them a lot thicker and decreasing the resistance.

 

[edyle]

Oh geez... In a house, you're running 120(ish) volts, AC, with fairly low current loads most of the time, and you're running wire with a very very low resistance (copper). It's not resistance wire, which is designed specifically to heat. You should go do some reading on basic circuit theory methinks.

Sorry, they are rhetorical type questions, directed to cdn who is thinking that current alone causes heat; not real questions.

 

[edyle]

Because the resistance is very high.



Because they are rated for a much larger current as far as I know. That rating is achieved by making them a lot thicker and decreasing the resistance.

That's it; the coil gets hot because of the higher resistance than the rest of the stuff that the current is passing though.

The wiring to a simple incandescent light bulb does not get hot but the coil inside the bulb gets hot because the coil has a higher resistance than all that wiring that leads the current to it.

It is the same current passing though the wires as is passing through the coil, but the coil gets hot because of the resistance, not just the current alone.

 

[TheSystemHasFailed]

You already CAN adjust the amps...Turn your voltage up or down!

You are thinking waaaaay too hard into it.

 

[ValHeli]

The original concern was "Why isn't there a variable amperage device", right?
I think it's simply bec. it's much easier to regulate / adjust voltage in a device. Take a multi meter and If i ask to measure the volts of a battery, you simply touch the + / - ends... much easier.. much simpler.. much safer. how about if I ask to measure the amps of the battery? Now you'll have to put that battery in a circuit, cut a wire, connect the multi meter in series to that wire, and turn the circuit on to measure amps.. less safe.. .more complicated.. to many steps


I was hoping this image would explain it: Volts is pushing the current but the strength of the current is dependent on the resistance.


Now I'm sure it's possible to create circuitry to adjust the current.. but again, it's much simpler to adjust voltage / wattage, because Volts are a measure of the pressure that causes current to flow through a circuit.

.. just accept it bro.. I mean just like you there's a number of things I don't understand and does not make sense, like.. why can't we have direct dc appliances when it's much more efficient than AC.. (well, bec. ac beat dc to it ). Why is my keyboard in QWERTY format and not DVORAK when DVORAK is much more efficient... well you guessed it, QWERTY beat DVORAK . Why is the gov't banning vaping... bec. the cigs beat us to it.

You already CAN adjust the amps...Turn your voltage up or down!

You are thinking waaaaay too hard into it.

What he said... we're thinking waaaay too hard

 

[SoberSnyper]

YES, YES!! the wattage is the measure of the work done by the system, it's the result of any and all other variables.



OR P = E squared / R all the variables are dependant on each other.



Any change in wattage, the actual work done, is never directly adjusted, it's by varying the voltage or resistance that the resulting wattage changes. a VW mod is just using the results of the formulas and variances in voltage, resistance and DISPLAYING the results, to make it easier for the vaper.

Changing only voltage or current is only changing one factor and IMO wouldn't be usable at all.

Changing voltage or resistance is the only variables we have easy control over, it results in current draw necessary to satisfy Ohm's Law. With a mech mod the resistance is the only available variable, a change results in higher wattage and a higher current to make the wattage possible. Regulated mods use different methods to increase wattage, some will adjust voltage to increase wattage, some will use duty cycles to approximate a voltage.

Early VV mods used a buck circuit that "regulated" the current / voltage to the coil by drawing some of the power (wattage) off and throwing it off as heat in the actual circuit, not a great solution. But these were the only mods to approximate a variable current control, and are no longer used. Even with these mods, the displayed to the user variable was voltage for simplicity and ease of use.

Ding, ding, ding, we have a winner. The only thing we can change with an APV is the voltage and the resistance. Current and wattage are outputs only. The only inputs in an APV are voltage and resistance.

 

[ckn71nm]

Maybe I AM thinking about it to hard.

On some level I actually really enjoy this thread. Even though it sometimes feels a little like I’m running the gauntlet. I’m learning a lot. Most things I knew before, a few things I didn’t and I’m a little clearer on most. Here is what I’m taking away from it so far.

The only really important things to consider are voltage drop and resistance. Resistance is constant, dictated by the coil. Both, current and power, are derived from voltage and resistance and regardless if I adjust current or power, what I’m actually adjusting is the voltage. In vw PV’s I select the power, but what gets adjusted is voltage calculated from the resistance and the power level I select. That would also be true if I had a variable current device. The voltage would get adjusted to a level calculated from resistance and selected current.

Btw. There seems to be the notion in here that I believe resistance is not important for heat generation. I don’t believe that. I never said that. I knew coming in here that current is a result of resistance and voltage and a main factor in generation of heat.

I think the only thing left is the discrepancy in my personal experience and everyone else’s. I experience that, changing the resistance by changing the coil, I will get the same vapor production by adjusting the current to the same level I used on the previous coil. In contrast to everyone here, telling me that I will get the same vapor production by changing the power to the same level as before.

Can’t wait to be done with my experiment. It sucks.

 

[VapingTurtle]

...
... I experience that, changing the resistance by changing the coil, I will get the same vapor production by adjusting the current to the same level I used on the previous coil. ...
...

But, you said it yourself in the very same post: You cannot adjust the current.

...
The only really important things to consider are voltage dropedit by vt and resistance. Resistance is constant, dictated by the coil. Both, current and power, are derived from voltage and resistance and regardless if I adjust current or power, what I’m actually adjusting is the voltage. ...

 

[dripdaze]

A few days ago there was a VV vs VW thread on the general board. I posted that I was looking forward to the day that someone would make a VA mod because that would make it a VV vs VW vs VA thread and make it more interesting. Boy was I right! This a very good thread although it was a little painful at times. I think a few actually learned something which is always a good thing. WTG everyone.

 

[Stosh]

I'm waiting for the VT mod as in Variable Taste....labeling is easy
Cold - Cooler - Normal - Warm - Hot - Burn yer Juice
It would be so much easier for the n00b that isn't familiar with Ohm's Law,
and the vets that don't understand it also....

 

[Mitey F]

I'm waiting for the VT mod as in Variable Taste....labeling is easy
Cold - Cooler - Normal - Warm - Hot - Burn yer Juice
It would be so much easier for the n00b that isn't familiar with Ohm's Law,
and the vets that don't understand it also....

Since you're talking about "noobs" I'm assuming you're referencing VV/VW as opposed to RBA's... There isn't really much to "understand" about voltage adjustment. Start low, and work your way up slowly. Sooner or later it will burn or get too hot, and you can dial it back down. It's no harder than adjusting the volume on your stereo. Somewhere in between too quiet and too loud, you'll figure out where you want to be.

 

[ckn71nm]

But, you said it yourself in the very same post: You cannot adjust the current.

calculating what voltage I have to run it on to match the current from before.

 

[ValHeli]

I think the only thing left is the discrepancy in my personal experience and everyone else’s. I experience that, changing the resistance by changing the coil, I will get the same vapor production by adjusting the current to the same level I used on the previous coil. In contrast to everyone here, telling me that I will get the same vapor production by changing the power to the same level as before.

Can’t wait to be done with my experiment. It sucks.

you're not adjusting the current but you're adjusting the voltage to push the current through resistance.

 

[WattWick]

I'm afraid of volts now...my atomizer jerrod changing

Sent by my cat through pure magic

Do not resist the volts, or the current will get you.

 

[Stosh]

Since you're talking about "noobs" I'm assuming you're referencing VV/VW as opposed to RBA's... There isn't really much to "understand" about voltage adjustment. Start low, and work your way up slowly. Sooner or later it will burn or get too hot, and you can dial it back down. It's no harder than adjusting the volume on your stereo. Somewhere in between too quiet and too loud, you'll figure out where you want to be.

LOL - check some of the "Just got my new mod" posts...and the questions / answers about VV - VW - Fixed voltage mech mods. Scary little knowledge going around...