Why are my wicks looking charred?

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UncleChuck

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Are your charred heads still using their "flavor wicks?"

This whole flavor wick business seems most suspicious to me. If the coil has enough juice, and your other variables are in order, having another wick laying on top shouldn't positively effect flavor, and would really seem to negatively effect flavor.

When you have a wick laying on top of the coil, instead of inside it, there is no where for the vapor to go. All that juice getting heated up between the wicks is just sitting there getting heated, and eventually charred. There needs to be airflow to take advantage of heated juice. The flavor wick is just covering part of the coil, stopping it from releasing vapor.

When vapor shoots off your coil, it's taking heat away with it. If the vapor can't escape the heat will build up and burn juice. At least that's my take on it. It seems the "flavor wicks" are just a lazy way for clearo makers to stop flooding issues, or at least give the user a fairly easy way of adjusting their feeding speed.

I don't use clearo based systems nearly enough to do any long term comparison myself, but if you are curious about the charred coils I'd suggest removing the flavor wick and seeing how it goes. If you have flooding issues, take two pieces of cotton, lay each one over the stock wick, at the ends where it meets the rubber cap. But not over the entire top of the wick and coil, just on the ends of the wick where it exits into the tank portion. I strongly suspect this would drastically cut down on the charring/gunking of wicks in clearo systems.

My sister uses protanks and other similar types exclusively and I'm always helping her out with horribly charred heads. The rebuilt ones I give her, which don't have any wick covering the coil, but otherwise are pretty much identical last far longer, and are much easier to bring back to life with a dry burn.

Lack of attention on the coil build itself on behalf of the manufacture could also produce choked wicks, which will char up much faster as well. I've seen a few tight enough I couldn't pull the silica out without completely yanking the coil out of the head.
 
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patrao_n

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If they're silica wicks, try cleaning them with fire (Yes, fire). It will burn off the extra liquid.

Then dry burn.

I did this as well. After a few times catching it on fire it was beginning to show signs of burning. I mean I could see it when its lit up and the silica strands just glow. But after a few times of this they started charring. Keep in mind I did this in my rebuildable atomizer. I bought some ekowool to see if it will be any better

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UncleChuck

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Were you using a torch or a standard lighter? Regular lighters don't get hot enough to work and leave sooty crap behind. A torch (preferably something with a bit more oomph than a pocket torch)will clean silica to a bright, brand new white color.

If the ends are frayed, and single hair thick strands are sticking out, those will usually "melt" off but not burn or char. Yes I know the temp to melt silica is higher than a torch can reach, but steel can be caught on fire with a candle if there is enough surface area (steel wool) But other than that, there is no fear of burning silica.

The best process I've found is to pad off as much juice as possible with a towel, do an overall torch to burn off the rest of the juice, then start at one end, heating it white hot, then "drag" that white hot section up the wick by slowly moving the torch. If there is black gunk left behind you either aren't getting it hot enough, or aren't torching it long enough.

Hope this helps!
 

riseabovethestorm

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Were you using a torch or a standard lighter? Regular lighters don't get hot enough to work and leave sooty crap behind. A torch (preferably something with a bit more oomph than a pocket torch)will clean silica to a bright, brand new white color.

If the ends are frayed, and single hair thick strands are sticking out, those will usually "melt" off but not burn or char. Yes I know the temp to melt silica is higher than a torch can reach, but steel can be caught on fire with a candle if there is enough surface area (steel wool) But other than that, there is no fear of burning silica.

The best process I've found is to pad off as much juice as possible with a towel, do an overall torch to burn off the rest of the juice, then start at one end, heating it white hot, then "drag" that white hot section up the wick by slowly moving the torch. If there is black gunk left behind you either aren't getting it hot enough, or aren't torching it long enough.

Hope this helps!

I use a soft flame lighter and set both ends going separately since the head draws the e-liquid outward from the center (for the most part) because of thermodynamics. I've seen people use torch lighters (refillable cigar lighters are a great, cheap solution) for this, but I find a soft flame works for me.Also, setting just the ends up will for the most part avoid direct flame contact with the kanthal.

Do this on a hard, non-flammable surface or use a pair of pliers to hold the atomizer as it WILL heat up and become uncomfortable.

As always, experiment with what works best for you, I just find that this method is very effective with Evod/PT style atomizer heads.
 

UncleChuck

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With the small wicks a regular lighter should work, didn't think about that. I'm used to torching 2" long pieces of 3mm ekowool, and regular lighters are pretty useless (or I'm just impatient ;) )

But the OP evidently isn't getting his wick hot enough, as he has black residue left over, which is why I suggested the torch. I'd stay away from Propane ones though, they are much hotter and make silica get too brittle to handle well.
 
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