I repeat this often enough think it time to write this out then link to it from now on. I have used Kanger tanks for a long time, started out with their version of the CE5 the T2, then moved to the original version T3 when they first came out, and have used all of their products to date excluding the UniTank and will probably not move to the Protank3 when it comes out, I've rebuilt a Protank and T3S head dual coil already, wasn't really happy with it. The Kanger style Bottom coil is relatively a simple design to learn to maintain once you learn the ins and outs and learn to troubleshoot and work out the quirks and flaws, these tank systems are solid performers and are run and gun when working properly and in tip top shape. One of the easiest to use really, this post will cover the Kanger T3, MT3, Mini T3, Mini MT3, T3S, MT3S, Mini T3S, Mini MT3S, Evod, Protank, Mini Protank, Protank 2, Mini Protank 2, and Mini Protank 2 Version 2 mainly, though the same steps will work with any tank that uses the Kanger coil head, like the G50 (Hypertank), Tatroe Tank, UniTank, and will work on the Protank 3's dual coil head, top coils like the Kanger T2 (CE5) or any other top coil design like the Vivi Novas, iClears, CE# tanks with removable coil heads, this is general knowledge that can work.
I classify cleaning into 3 types, basic, intermediate, and full cleaning.
Basic Cleaning -
Basic cleaning is just a simple rinsing and cleaning. Disassemble the tank into its basic parts, base, tank, and coil head, in the case of the Protank 2, Mini Protank 2, and Mini Protank 2 Version 2, top cap, central air shaft, and drip tip. Once disassembled to these basic parts, carefully rinse and run all the parts under warm tap water, on the coil heads run water thoroughly across the exposed wicks and down through the coil chimney to get a thoroughly cleaning of the wicks and coil, generally when the wicks turn white again they should be pretty clean. Now using a towel or paper towels you can get all or most excess water off the parts, tanks and other pieces you can reassemble, coil heads set them aside to air dry on a paper towel out of reach of little children and pets. Coil heads can be used imediately, but will take a few minutes of use to get excess water in the wicks burned out and flavor and vapor output will be muted. This should be done to your heads regularly after each tank for darker, sweeter, and thicker liquids, thinner, lighter, and less sweet liquids this can be done every 2nd or 3rd tank refill or when you feel the coil is not perfoming or could be clogged and gunked up.
*Note - Pipe cleaners work real well on the T3, MT3, Mini T3, and Mini MT3, Protank 2, Mini Protank 2, and Mini Protank 2 Version 2 central air shaft; Evod, T3S, Mini T3S, MT3S, Mini MT3S, Protank central air shafts, cotton swabs (q-tips) work excellently.
Intermediate Cleaning -
All the steps of the Basic Cleaning get done here, however do the basic cleaning after. Intermediate cleaning you add in a soaking of the coil heads and glass sections for those tanks with glass in vodka, everclear (pure grain alcohol), or moonshine for about 20minutes to help dissolve gunk and sugars out of the wicks and off the coils. Other parts like plastic tanks you can soak in hot water, or if you do not wish to use vodka or such to soak with all parts soak in hot water, then do all the steps in basic above. This should be done to coil heads once a week, and clears out more gunk and goo out of the wicks and off the coil, especially with a vodka or everclear soak and the alcohol dissolves a lot of this off the coils and out of the wicks.
Full Cleaning or Advanced cleaning -
You do all the steps in Basic and Intermediate. After the Intermediate soaking, rinse your coil heads and bases. Next step attach your coils to a base, then gently wiggle the air chimney tube off, setting it and top seal grommet aside. Now inspect your wicks and coils. What we are looking for is in the wicks themselves, you will notice there is possibly still goo or gunk in them, or they are still dark, especially near the coils or around the coils, this is fine, it is just stubborn gunk, however, if the wicks appear to be frayed to the point they are literally desintigrating or you see dark almost blackish crystalizing then the wicks are bad and the head needs replacing or rebuilding, no crystalizing or desintigrating, attach the coil head and base to your device, on variable power devices, set this to the lowest voltage the device can do. Now, looking down from the top, slowly, in 5 second pulses, fire the coil up, the coils will start to sizzle and vaporize any water away first, then start to vaporize off any goo and gunk, after that the coils will start to burn off all carbon encasing them, exposing the wire again, do this until the coils all glow evenly, once this is done, re-attach the chimney to the coil cup, seating the sealing grommet to where it just begins to grip the coil cup, proceed to doing your basic cleaning under tap water to rinse out ash and burned off carbon. I generally do this any time I do intermediate cleaning which is once a week.
These maintenance steps should add extra mileage to your Kanger tank systems and coil heads, just a little TLC can give great results to your equipment =)
*Note - for top coil or other tank and coil designs of clearomizers, all of these steps listed will work, just modification of the methodology comes into play, ie for instance Vivi Nova and first generation iClear style (haven't done this or own an iClear30S), attach base, stem and coil head on without top caps or tank tubes to do the Advance dry burn technique will be different.
I classify cleaning into 3 types, basic, intermediate, and full cleaning.
Basic Cleaning -
Basic cleaning is just a simple rinsing and cleaning. Disassemble the tank into its basic parts, base, tank, and coil head, in the case of the Protank 2, Mini Protank 2, and Mini Protank 2 Version 2, top cap, central air shaft, and drip tip. Once disassembled to these basic parts, carefully rinse and run all the parts under warm tap water, on the coil heads run water thoroughly across the exposed wicks and down through the coil chimney to get a thoroughly cleaning of the wicks and coil, generally when the wicks turn white again they should be pretty clean. Now using a towel or paper towels you can get all or most excess water off the parts, tanks and other pieces you can reassemble, coil heads set them aside to air dry on a paper towel out of reach of little children and pets. Coil heads can be used imediately, but will take a few minutes of use to get excess water in the wicks burned out and flavor and vapor output will be muted. This should be done to your heads regularly after each tank for darker, sweeter, and thicker liquids, thinner, lighter, and less sweet liquids this can be done every 2nd or 3rd tank refill or when you feel the coil is not perfoming or could be clogged and gunked up.
*Note - Pipe cleaners work real well on the T3, MT3, Mini T3, and Mini MT3, Protank 2, Mini Protank 2, and Mini Protank 2 Version 2 central air shaft; Evod, T3S, Mini T3S, MT3S, Mini MT3S, Protank central air shafts, cotton swabs (q-tips) work excellently.
Intermediate Cleaning -
All the steps of the Basic Cleaning get done here, however do the basic cleaning after. Intermediate cleaning you add in a soaking of the coil heads and glass sections for those tanks with glass in vodka, everclear (pure grain alcohol), or moonshine for about 20minutes to help dissolve gunk and sugars out of the wicks and off the coils. Other parts like plastic tanks you can soak in hot water, or if you do not wish to use vodka or such to soak with all parts soak in hot water, then do all the steps in basic above. This should be done to coil heads once a week, and clears out more gunk and goo out of the wicks and off the coil, especially with a vodka or everclear soak and the alcohol dissolves a lot of this off the coils and out of the wicks.
Full Cleaning or Advanced cleaning -
You do all the steps in Basic and Intermediate. After the Intermediate soaking, rinse your coil heads and bases. Next step attach your coils to a base, then gently wiggle the air chimney tube off, setting it and top seal grommet aside. Now inspect your wicks and coils. What we are looking for is in the wicks themselves, you will notice there is possibly still goo or gunk in them, or they are still dark, especially near the coils or around the coils, this is fine, it is just stubborn gunk, however, if the wicks appear to be frayed to the point they are literally desintigrating or you see dark almost blackish crystalizing then the wicks are bad and the head needs replacing or rebuilding, no crystalizing or desintigrating, attach the coil head and base to your device, on variable power devices, set this to the lowest voltage the device can do. Now, looking down from the top, slowly, in 5 second pulses, fire the coil up, the coils will start to sizzle and vaporize any water away first, then start to vaporize off any goo and gunk, after that the coils will start to burn off all carbon encasing them, exposing the wire again, do this until the coils all glow evenly, once this is done, re-attach the chimney to the coil cup, seating the sealing grommet to where it just begins to grip the coil cup, proceed to doing your basic cleaning under tap water to rinse out ash and burned off carbon. I generally do this any time I do intermediate cleaning which is once a week.
These maintenance steps should add extra mileage to your Kanger tank systems and coil heads, just a little TLC can give great results to your equipment =)
*Note - for top coil or other tank and coil designs of clearomizers, all of these steps listed will work, just modification of the methodology comes into play, ie for instance Vivi Nova and first generation iClear style (haven't done this or own an iClear30S), attach base, stem and coil head on without top caps or tank tubes to do the Advance dry burn technique will be different.
