This question comes up quite a bit...here's what I do.
Materials
-400-800 grit sandpaper
-Power drill (optional)
-Pliers (possibly needed to remove the button and button housing)
-Torch/Lighter/Gas range/heat source (same reason as the pliers)
First thing I start with is the spring cup. You will want to remove all the chrome from the outside AND inside of the cup. The outside for where the switch contacts the cup and the inside for where the spring contacts the cup. For the inside, roll the sandpaper tightly until it fits in the cup and rotate the sandpaper. Remove the sandpaper after a handful of turns to remove the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging.
In the pic you can see my spring delete modification. It is reported that the latest batch of #8's is coming with an improved spring to help with the voltage loss. If you have an older #8 you can do a spring delete modification (HERE) or purchase a new spring that is designed to carry electricity (HERE).
Next thing is to dissemble the switch. You may need pliers and a heat source to dissemble the switch. The factory has used threadlocker to hold the button in place. If needed, heat the button to break the bond (doesn't take too much heat) and dissemble.
Roll the sandpaper tightly to fit in to the switch housing bore and rotate the sandpaper to remove the chrome. Remove the sandpaper after a handful of turns to remove the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging.
Next is the hole that the switch pin rides in. This is important if you are having hot button issues. Much of the electrical current needs to travel through this small contact area to the switch pin. Dont sand too much, it will make the hole bigger and the pin will have a harder time contacting this area. 800 or even 1000 grit would be best. You dont NEED to remove the button housing, but it does make it a little easier to get the sandpaper into the hole.
Next is the switch pin. I chuck the pin in a power drill for speedy work, though it can also be done by hand. Sand the shaft of the pin, this is the area that will need to contact the switch housing to carry the electricity and avoid hot button syndrome.
Next is the head of the switch pin. Try to keep the surface as flat as possible. A flat surface will maximize the contact area and allow for better flow of electricity . A sanding block, or placing the sandpaper on a flat surface and moving the pin, will help.
Next is the positive post screw. Same applies...flat a possible.
and the atty side of the positive post...flat as possible.
That's all folks. This can be done start to finish in about 15-20 min, or 20-30 with a beer and a few vape breaks.
Feel free to leave questions or comments below.
Materials
-400-800 grit sandpaper
-Power drill (optional)
-Pliers (possibly needed to remove the button and button housing)
-Torch/Lighter/Gas range/heat source (same reason as the pliers)
First thing I start with is the spring cup. You will want to remove all the chrome from the outside AND inside of the cup. The outside for where the switch contacts the cup and the inside for where the spring contacts the cup. For the inside, roll the sandpaper tightly until it fits in the cup and rotate the sandpaper. Remove the sandpaper after a handful of turns to remove the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging.
In the pic you can see my spring delete modification. It is reported that the latest batch of #8's is coming with an improved spring to help with the voltage loss. If you have an older #8 you can do a spring delete modification (HERE) or purchase a new spring that is designed to carry electricity (HERE).
Next thing is to dissemble the switch. You may need pliers and a heat source to dissemble the switch. The factory has used threadlocker to hold the button in place. If needed, heat the button to break the bond (doesn't take too much heat) and dissemble.
Roll the sandpaper tightly to fit in to the switch housing bore and rotate the sandpaper to remove the chrome. Remove the sandpaper after a handful of turns to remove the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging.
Next is the hole that the switch pin rides in. This is important if you are having hot button issues. Much of the electrical current needs to travel through this small contact area to the switch pin. Dont sand too much, it will make the hole bigger and the pin will have a harder time contacting this area. 800 or even 1000 grit would be best. You dont NEED to remove the button housing, but it does make it a little easier to get the sandpaper into the hole.
Next is the switch pin. I chuck the pin in a power drill for speedy work, though it can also be done by hand. Sand the shaft of the pin, this is the area that will need to contact the switch housing to carry the electricity and avoid hot button syndrome.
Next is the head of the switch pin. Try to keep the surface as flat as possible. A flat surface will maximize the contact area and allow for better flow of electricity . A sanding block, or placing the sandpaper on a flat surface and moving the pin, will help.
Next is the positive post screw. Same applies...flat a possible.
and the atty side of the positive post...flat as possible.
That's all folks. This can be done start to finish in about 15-20 min, or 20-30 with a beer and a few vape breaks.
Feel free to leave questions or comments below.
