New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

Cloud Wizard;7392636 said:

Nicotinologist;7390619 said:

I do not know if I and others were instrumental on center post and nuts revision into stainless steel. I commented on their website and questioned the rational on using brass materials. Although stainless steel is the poorest conductor compared to silver, copper (brass is a copper alloy), gold and aluminum, the differences on resistance for all practical purposes, are quite negligible on the size of the DID's center pin and the nuts. Being that the stainless steel is the sturdiest, it stands to reason that it's the best choice aside from less susceptible to oxidation (e-liquid). So, to switch back from stainless steel to brass is actually going backward. My DID is all stainless steel like yours. The nuts are knurled and the internal connecting tube is meticulously machined. Now, if I could only make it to work properly, like the rest of the happy owners, I'll be a very happy man. I'm beginning to question the wire it came with. Is it Kanthal or not? Kanthal's skin surface oxidizes after several annealing and burn-in runs due to aluminunm alloy material in it (I researched it last night). The oxidation acts as an electrical insulation between the wire mesh and the heating coil.

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There are some sure fire ways to get up and running (sans fine "expert" fine tuning).

Wick

1. Cut wick material (I like the 400 Jim provides but am now experimenting with 500) to 40mm x 50mm (1/2 a sheet provided with DID)
2. Torch both side of mesh flat (aka "Jack Frost" method - doesn't require a ton of burn, just glow bright orange and move on to cover the mesh both sides)
3. Fold leading edge ~1mm (on the side you roll to be the outside - gets rid of pointy edges that may cause shorts/hot spots later)
4. Roll wick on the allen wrench that comes with the DID or any tool that is just a little smaller than the wick hole (I use and 8D finishing nail and just keep checking the width till it fits the wick hole with just enough friction that it slide in easily but holds if let go)
5. Once shaped, the tool can be removed and the wick can be tightened more by rolling to right fit
6. Cut a 45 degree cut at the bottom and insert wick till it touches bottom (the angle cut let bubbles come out the bottom easier which seems to provide better wicking later)
7. Cut the wick ~1mm below top of center post (that way when you install later and line it up with the top you know it's not touching the bottom of the tank)
8. 3X Torch the wick and quench (I use my pick stuck just barely in the end to keep me from getting burnt and torch the wick end to end while rolling it till it glows orange then stick in trickle of water running in the faucet)
9. 3X juice burn (dowse the wick in juice - PG/VG is irrelevant - light on fire with lighter and let burn till fire starts going out and then blow out)

Coil (I use 30awg Kanthal A1 4/5 wrap to get ~1.4ohm, but have been ver successful with 32awg 3/4 to get about the same resistance)

• Find a tool that fits the wick hole pretty close (I use a pick from Home Depot)
• Cut ~5 in wire (you can go shorter to save I prefer the easy handles of longer coil wire for wrapping/installing)
• Burn your wire with a lighter to anneal - I run the lighter flame up once and back making the resistance wire glow (makes the wire hold shape a bit better and burns off any factory residue)
• Wrap your coil around the tool of choice with the ears left even (once I've wrappeed my coil on the tool I hold the ears and roll back/forth between my fingers to get a perfect shape and then squeeze the coil down on the tool to get them perfectly lined up and even)
• Stick the tool right in the wick hole and connect the bottom ear (I go in between the negative screw and the center post counter clockwise and pull snug - when I tighten the negative screw I try to ensure the wire leading out to the wick-side is at the closest point to the wick hole - shorter distance here will eliminate some shorts/hotspots)
• Wrap top ear around center post clockwise and tighten the top center post nut while holding the tool ~1mm away from the center post (coil touching at top is a high risk short/hotspot)
• Pull out the tool and use a toothpick to adjust coil (never ends up being perfect, but why not try...)
• Dry burn your coil to make sure all coils glow evenly (be sure the bottom lead is laying on the bottom till it gets to the wick hole and that the other coils are not touching anywhere)
• Check resistance of your coil (This is the baseline resistance - optimum - and what you should be shooting for in use)

Install Wick

• twist the wick into the installed coil until even with the top center post (if there is too much resistance - the coil starts compressing - roll the wick a little tighter till it slides in with slight resistance but touches all the way around)
• Fill with juice
• Put a few drops of juice on the coil/wick
• Install filler hole screw
• Install top cap
• Vape

Notes:

1. Coils/wicks take 1/2 to a full tank to break in
2. If you check your resistance and it's lower than baseline - vape a little bit, put a few drops of juice on the wick/coil and burn a little - and the twist the wick 1/4 turn and try again
3. If the coils are touching any of the previously noted places use a tootpick to nudge them till they are not.

This all sounds like a lot, but once you get it down it only takes a couple minutes start-to-finish...

If I missed anything, someone will chime in, good luck.

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