Diver RBA Journal - 1

Chikenbok;9929809 said:
What do you guys do at the Doctor's office while you wait? Long Post Time:

Recoil Journal -- Diver RBA

Doctor's office - on time - wait time - 1.5 hours - will try for 10 coils without freaking out the nurses. Should be working on Grant proposal; current priority -- coils. All coils tested on fully charged Provari. All vapes tested on Nemesis 18350+Kick@9ohms.

-3/4 wrap 32g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 2.4ohms
--Above + No Res - 1.7 ohms (ideal beginner setup if experienced with non-res wire)
-3/4 Wrap 30g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x3mm Silica - 1.8ohm (ideal beginner setup without experience in non-res wrapping)
--Above + No Res - ~1.0ohms
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 2x2mm Silica (had to reduce silica height to compensate for coil density) - 1.4ohms - Broke one cup in process of build, numbers could be off.
-3/4 Wrap 28g Kanthal A1 res only. 3x1mm Silica frays too much after a day's use and begins to gurgle, not suggested.* (see note)
--Above + No Res - Freight Train Status - not recommended or suggested.
-2/3 wrap Kanthal Ribbon (don't recall number, sitting in doctors office, its equal to 30g Kanthal res wise). Struggling… Cup is too small to fit more than 2 clean wraps. Frack this.
- 3/4 wrap random Nichrome build - this stuff is still disgusting, not noting.

Currently under the impression that the best configuration is 30g Kanthal A1 Res Only + 3 x 1mm Silica (or 2x3mm) with a 3/4 wrap. Will let the XC break in and report back.

Serious scalding of various elements in diver base without use of non-resistance wire ONLY when operating in a sub-ohm range (stop it vapors - heat dmg to internal components/orings). Otherwise I see no reason to continue the use of Non-res wire in Diver builds if you understand basic mathematics. (The benefit of no-res at this point is simply to allow the possibility of adding one more wrap to your coil for increased surface area contact between coil and wick without increasing resistance respective to the no-res wire. I don't mind a 3/4 wrap - a 4/5 wrap is a pain in the .... in these cups.) Compensate for the extra length of Kanthal (from coil to brass post is about 2mm) by adjusting the coils on your Diver - Will do maths later).

I suggest for future studies - if using only Kanthal to stay with 30gauge and under minding your wick size as noted above. Smaller diameter Silica performs incredibly well when stacked however maintaining a vertical orientation so that it fits into cup slits while wrapping is very difficult. Gurgling problems clearly due to 1mm Silica being unable to contain enough juice/or too much coil pressure (too tight of a wrap) causing excess juice to flood through 510 (noted that when using 1mm triple stacked there was too much air intake on a non-powered draw, can only imagine the rate of absorption into the atty to be quite high without pressure). This can however, be alleviated by folding one side of the wicks 'upwards' into the cylinder and twisting them in such a way that they cover the air hole in the body of the cylinder (performed with long needle to reorient wicks); only the tips of the wicks should be covering it, it wicks consistently under this load but will not stand to constant chain vaping.

*Last thing of note: when using 28g kanthal in your positive center post, be gentle - its quite easy for the brass pin to cause expansion when press fitted, thus cracking the ceramic and making it impossible to take out… sorry doctor's office, you're making me wait, you can clean up my fracking ceramic shards.)

**Will be working primarily with XC-113 for the next day or two giving results as they come. I have 100ft coming and will be Kiln treating it myself next week. You know the drill,

Holler at your boy - X-ray time.

Comments

i just got the diver-i have very little experience, and even less success, with rbas, but i had to have it, because i love carto tanks... and i wanted to use it in my billet box (although it seems to be just a HAIR too long to fit properly). the pre made coil they sent with the diver came out to just under 2 ohms, so i'm usingit in a phiniac tank with a sig 19. working GREAT!!! i don't really understand the whole resistance/non-resistance wire thing, and i'm confused as hell. can you throw some beginner tips my way? i was hoping i could find a "diver for dummies" thread, but no such luck.
thanks in advance for any help.
 

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