So, I recently ordered a roll of 30 gauge Kanthal and started building my own replacement
coils for Kanger T3S, and ProTanks. I used the 4-40 machine screw method, and they came out great. So I started browsing the forum and became interested in the ProTank 3, which boasts a dual coil atomizer. Then I thought, "why can't I BUiLD one of those?". So, I did, and it works amazing.
First thing, start with a paperclip. I Wrapped the Kanthal 10 times around it as tight as I could.
I then pressed the two sides of the coil together using my thumbs in order to compact the coil, because space is something you don't have in one of these heads. Once it's nice and tight, slide it right off of the paperclip. You should end up with something like this.
now make your second coil IDENTICAL to the first. This is very important in order for the dual-coil to heat evenly.
now it's time to wick these micro-
coils. I use one of these.
its an organic cotton safety swab. There is more than enough cotton on one end to make up TWO of these set ups, and it wicks perfectly with no weird taste. Just gently pull it apart until you get what you need. This takes a little bit of finagling, but becomes easier over time. Now roll one end of the cotton to a point small enough to fit
through the coil.
Once you get enough through, gently pull some more cotton through the coil until you get a snug fit on both sides. This may take some twisting and rolling, but as long as your piece of cotton is not too thick, it should work.
Now repeat the process for coil #2. Don't trim the wicks yet as they will help you to position them in the head.
now take the two completed micro coils and insert the wire ends through the head. Should look something like this.
Now reinsert your rubber grommet passing either the two left or two right lead wires through the center, and leaving the two opposite wires wedged in between the rubber and the chassis.(sorry no pics for this portion). I find it easiest to make sure the negative wire leads end on the opposite side of the grommet as the positive leads do, this will help to alleviate a short circuit. Now insert the positive metal post, and trim the lead as close as possible. Be sure to tuck any excess wire in as flush as you can. The finished head, after adjusting the coils.
i also add a small lightly rolled piece of cotton on top of the coils (flavor wick). I think this helps with leaks, and also adds some juice to the hottest part of the coils. Once the head is reassembled, I check the resistance. I read .7-.8 ohms on this particular rebuild. At 4.2 volts that's 22 watts! I am extremely happy with the way this thing vapes now, trippling my power and doubling my surface area all in one shot. Please give it a try and let me know what you think. If any advice is needed, I'd be more than happy to help.