Wire-Welder Piko3 : User Review
What with the bunch of NR-R-NR Attys in my coterie viz. the Diver, Killer705, Oddy and the Ithaka, it had become a pain to manually join those two wires. I thus, soon realized that a TSAF/Zapper styled wire-welder was inevitable. So, went on a lookout and stumbled upon the Piko3 here - and boy, did I do good - you bet!
For one, it's a must have vape equipment if we are into such builds; and for two, the Piko3 is awesomely built. Spot on in performance - welds every type of wire like an indistinguishable conjoined twin. And built to last - it's a pretty robust gear. I've had it for sometime now, joined over 50+ wire welds, am deeply satisfied and hence thought to put-in my review as well.
HOW TO?
1. Connecting the device:
The supplied power source (a Transformer-Adapter) is needed to either power it up, or charge the Piko3, as the case maybe. I opted for the v2 model, thus the Adapter remains plugged-in while I weld. In the case of v1 model, we'd use it to charge the internal batteries of the Piko3 and keep it stored. The internal batteries in-turn will power it up once it's switched ON.
2. Piko3 Parts:
Quite a few, but don't worry all we'd need is to switch it ON (#2), Adjust the Voltage (#6), Charge-up (#1) and Attach the wires (#9 & #11).
3. Voltage Range:
We can vary the voltage of the Piko3 between 8.1v & 35.7v. Some models might come with a few readings here-n-there but the gist of the matter is - we will only be using anything between 28v-34v for our welds, come whatever the gauge of the wire/s be. A couple of dry runs (tests) will let you know your sweet spot!
4. Adjusting the Voltage:
The Mini-Screwdriver is supplied in the package, all we need to do is to use it over the 'flat-headed' screw of the Potentiometer to turn it for our chosen voltage.
NOTE: Clockwise rotation 'reduces' the voltage reading and Anti-Clockwise rotating gets towards 'higher' voltages.
TIP: I have found that 34v is my sweet spot for joining most wires.
5. Welding the Wires:
After selecting your desired voltage, attach the your "Resistance" wire on the Spring-loaded post (#11) and your "No-Resistance" wire on the Alligator Clip (#9). Push (and keep it pressed) the Charge Button (#1) for approximately 10-seconds, release it and you are ready for your weld. Now, bring your 'NR' wire towards the 'R', keep both wire ends over the well-lit Workspace (#10), overlap the wires by approximately 1mm, then "touch" them and voilà - there'd be a "spark" - and you have your joint! Then repeat the process again for the other end/s of the wires.
NOTE: Placing either wires on whichever post / clip makes no difference theoretically, they will anyway weld together. However, I found that if the 'NR' is in the Alligator Clip and the 'R' is in the Spring-loaded post - they weld flawlessly.
TIP: Remember the 1mm overlap. Our wires should "sit" on each other for the best weld. A mere touching might get the job done - but could also disintegrate eventually, either while coiling, or later upon Atty Assembly. Which could be a PITA! We don't want that, do we?
ADDITIONAL IMAGES:
1. BACK PLATE:
2. INTERNALS:
3. POWER ADAPTER:
BOTTOMLINE:
I am using my Piko3 since about a month now. Have successfully joined many wires and found it to be a enormous help in Atty Maintenance chores. It fires everytime - it welds everytime - perfectly. It could be tad finicky initially, mainly to find your sweet spot (desired voltage) and that 1mm wire-to-wire overlap, but once this two are sorted - your NR-R-NR joining could never be much easier. It's well constructed, I have dropped it on my tiled kitchen floor a few times (which is why that "internals" image!), and it doesn't budge from performing. Overall I give it 10/10 for performance, quality & price... I'd thus, Highly Recommend it!
__________________________________________________________
Additional Info: The Piko3 currently comes with an Euro Power Plug. We'd just need an additional adapter (available here) to connect it onto our wall sockets.
PRICE: €55 EUR
WHERE: Vapor Wall
What with the bunch of NR-R-NR Attys in my coterie viz. the Diver, Killer705, Oddy and the Ithaka, it had become a pain to manually join those two wires. I thus, soon realized that a TSAF/Zapper styled wire-welder was inevitable. So, went on a lookout and stumbled upon the Piko3 here - and boy, did I do good - you bet!
For one, it's a must have vape equipment if we are into such builds; and for two, the Piko3 is awesomely built. Spot on in performance - welds every type of wire like an indistinguishable conjoined twin. And built to last - it's a pretty robust gear. I've had it for sometime now, joined over 50+ wire welds, am deeply satisfied and hence thought to put-in my review as well.
HOW TO?
1. Connecting the device:
The supplied power source (a Transformer-Adapter) is needed to either power it up, or charge the Piko3, as the case maybe. I opted for the v2 model, thus the Adapter remains plugged-in while I weld. In the case of v1 model, we'd use it to charge the internal batteries of the Piko3 and keep it stored. The internal batteries in-turn will power it up once it's switched ON.
2. Piko3 Parts:
Quite a few, but don't worry all we'd need is to switch it ON (#2), Adjust the Voltage (#6), Charge-up (#1) and Attach the wires (#9 & #11).
3. Voltage Range:
We can vary the voltage of the Piko3 between 8.1v & 35.7v. Some models might come with a few readings here-n-there but the gist of the matter is - we will only be using anything between 28v-34v for our welds, come whatever the gauge of the wire/s be. A couple of dry runs (tests) will let you know your sweet spot!
4. Adjusting the Voltage:
The Mini-Screwdriver is supplied in the package, all we need to do is to use it over the 'flat-headed' screw of the Potentiometer to turn it for our chosen voltage.
NOTE: Clockwise rotation 'reduces' the voltage reading and Anti-Clockwise rotating gets towards 'higher' voltages.
TIP: I have found that 34v is my sweet spot for joining most wires.
5. Welding the Wires:
After selecting your desired voltage, attach the your "Resistance" wire on the Spring-loaded post (#11) and your "No-Resistance" wire on the Alligator Clip (#9). Push (and keep it pressed) the Charge Button (#1) for approximately 10-seconds, release it and you are ready for your weld. Now, bring your 'NR' wire towards the 'R', keep both wire ends over the well-lit Workspace (#10), overlap the wires by approximately 1mm, then "touch" them and voilà - there'd be a "spark" - and you have your joint! Then repeat the process again for the other end/s of the wires.
NOTE: Placing either wires on whichever post / clip makes no difference theoretically, they will anyway weld together. However, I found that if the 'NR' is in the Alligator Clip and the 'R' is in the Spring-loaded post - they weld flawlessly.
TIP: Remember the 1mm overlap. Our wires should "sit" on each other for the best weld. A mere touching might get the job done - but could also disintegrate eventually, either while coiling, or later upon Atty Assembly. Which could be a PITA! We don't want that, do we?
ADDITIONAL IMAGES:
1. BACK PLATE:
2. INTERNALS:
3. POWER ADAPTER:
BOTTOMLINE:
I am using my Piko3 since about a month now. Have successfully joined many wires and found it to be a enormous help in Atty Maintenance chores. It fires everytime - it welds everytime - perfectly. It could be tad finicky initially, mainly to find your sweet spot (desired voltage) and that 1mm wire-to-wire overlap, but once this two are sorted - your NR-R-NR joining could never be much easier. It's well constructed, I have dropped it on my tiled kitchen floor a few times (which is why that "internals" image!), and it doesn't budge from performing. Overall I give it 10/10 for performance, quality & price... I'd thus, Highly Recommend it!
__________________________________________________________
Additional Info: The Piko3 currently comes with an Euro Power Plug. We'd just need an additional adapter (available here) to connect it onto our wall sockets.
PRICE: €55 EUR
WHERE: Vapor Wall
