Kamry K100 Question

[tortugo23]

Hey All,

I am new here to the forum and new to vaping. I started with ego twists and kanger Protank IIs. I recently got the Kamry K100 kit and the CHammer mod from 101vapes. Everything worked fine, very clean vapes compared to the ego twists.

Recently, the K100 has been zapping coils it seems. I am using the batteries from the kit as well as some efest batteries I bought. I don't understand why this would be happening, all batteries are 3.7 volts, though different sizes, plus the CHammer works fine. The K100 is working with the drip atomizer it comes with, but that's it. I don't know what the difference is between the Kanger and the drips it comes with.

I have tried the 2.5, 2.2, and 1.8 ohm coils on it. They all work on the twist and the CHammer, then they don't on the K100. The 1.8 ohms are sketchy sometimes on the CHammer. What happens is no ability to draw a hit, and it starts leaking through the coil.

Any pointers?

 

[happydave]

your atomizer of any sort should make a sizzling sound. not sure what you mean by "zapping coils"

 

[tortugo23]

That's the problem, no sizzle. What happens is no ability to draw a hit, and it starts leaking juice through the coil. Not a lot, but way more than it should. The CHammer and twists sizzle like normal.

 

[happydave]

well if the CHammer works with other atty then i would say something is wrong with the coil in the non functioning atty. or the non function atty is not making a connection with the CHammer

 

[tortugo23]

Hmmmm, so what happens is I can use a working atty/coil with all batteries, but as soon as I put it on the K100 it is dead and will no longer work on any battery after that. It doesn't make sense at all to me, especially since the drip atty works on the K100. Would coils, or battereis make a difference? 101 Vape says, "We do not know why there would be a compatibility issue between the 2." Not much help really. Seems like something is wrong with the K100 if it's killing coils. I just wonder if any advanced vapers here would have any compatibility ideas as to why this would happen. It's too bad, the K100 seemed like a good strong mod. They say its the last e-cig you will ever need to own.

 

[Stosh]

Have you checked your batteries with a meter to see what voltage they are charged to? Also check the resistance / ohms of the "zapped" coils, to see if they are open or just not making contact properly.

 

[tortugo23]

Have you checked your batteries with a meter to see what voltage they are charged to? Also check the resistance / ohms of the "zapped" coils, to see if they are open or just not making contact properly.

Not yet. I have a meter, but can't say I'm very familiar with it. Do you know of any e-cig oriented tutorials to check voltage and resistance?

 

[Sucker_dad]

YouTube

 

[*deleon517*]

It sounds like there is a issue with the connector plate on the atties making contact with the k100 connector plate. Since there is a hard draw it could also be the air holes being blocked when put on the k100, which could be fixed with a 510-510 connector.

If the "zapped" atties are showing no resistance one other thing to take into consideration is that the k100 is a very hard hitting mechanical mod with little voltage drop off when the battery is charged. That why its my mech of choice most of the time. Now a good fully charged battery when not using a kick will actually be putting out 4.2v's. Depending on what your using on it that may be too high of a voltage and can be causing a lot of your issues.

 

[tortugo23]

YouTube

Hmmmm . . . yeah youtube is quite the tutor, good idea. I was wondering if Stosh knew of any tutorials that were especially good and that relate to the topic. I see that one has to be incredibly clear here. If anyone knows of any good tutorials on this topic (meters, voltage, ohms in relation to e-cigs) I would love to check those out.

I hope this is the right section of the forum for these kinds of questions.

 

[tortugo23]

It sounds like there is a issue with the connector plate on the atties making contact with the k100 connector plate. Since there is a hard draw it could also be the air holes being blocked when put on the k100, which could be fixed with a 510-510 connector.

If the "zapped" atties are showing no resistance one other thing to take into consideration is that the k100 is a very hard hitting mechanical mod with little voltage drop off when the battery is charged. That why its my mech of choice most of the time. Now a good fully charged battery when not using a kick will actually be putting out 4.2v's. Depending on what your using on it that may be too high of a voltage and can be causing a lot of your issues.

Thanks, I'm starting to think it's the latter suggestion. I think newly charged batteries might be too much for the 2.5 coils. I wonder what the ohms are on the drip attys it comes with, those are working fine.

I think the connector plate is connecting fine, the coils stop drawing air and leak juice. I will look into the connector and a kicker. Do you have recommendations for a source for these?

 

[Stosh]

A fresh charged 4.2 volt battery will work fine without any fear of overpowering a 2.5 ohm atty. I have a K100 that fires up a evod or vivi at 2.5 ohms all day without frying a single coil.

While you have the meter out, did you check that the batteries are actually charged to 4.2 volts and not being over-charged? If your charger has issues it could be over-charging the batteries --- which can be very dangerous (as in BOOM dangerous). Always check your battery voltage before charging (over dis-charged is a problem) and after charging fot over-charging.

 

[tortugo23]

A fresh charged 4.2 volt battery will work fine without any fear of overpowering a 2.5 ohm atty. I have a K100 that fires up a evod or vivi at 2.5 ohms all day without frying a single coil.

Hmmmm . . . Freshly charged batteries are reading at 4.1, and the same attys are working fine on the CHammer, with the same 4.1 batteries. So back to the connector plate idea. Thing is that once a new coil is put on the K100, its dead on all other batteries too.

 

[tortugo23]

It sounds like there is a issue with the connector plate on the atties making contact with the k100 connector plate. Since there is a hard draw it could also be the air holes being blocked when put on the k100, which could be fixed with a 510-510 connector.

Ha! it seems to be exactly this! I tried hooking up a working Kanger ProII atty to the K100 without the battery in it and it isn't hitting. I put it back on the CHammer and still not hitting (as if it blew the coil). Tried the drip on the K100 and it hits fine. Out of curiosity I hooked up the Kanger Pro II Mini and get a tasty hit. So something is happening with the Kanger Pro II connection to the K100. Weird since it worked fine for a couple weeks. So would a 510-510 connector clear this up? I need to stick with the Kangers for a while to economize on coils. I think evods might use the same coils.

Thank you all for the input. I am 99% sure this is solved. Now just to get a bigger tank (with same coils) running on the K100 again.

 

[*deleon517*]

it sounds exactly like a connector plate issue. you can try using a paper clip to wiggle the center pin on the bottom of the atty just a tad. it shouldnt move much at all, but it will make a difference.

if that is the cause a 510-510 connector could help remedy that issue but it will make the protank not sit flush on the k100

 

[spawnsharks]

I have a completely different, yet totally similar issue with my K100.

If I put my Kanger tanks on my K100, the connector pin seems to push the bottom of the head up just a smidge. If I move that same tank to my MVP, it will not fire, and the resistance check reads 'NON'. The solution is to nudge the bottom connector pin of the atty down a little so it becomes flush with, or even a little proud of the bottom of the connector.

This does not happen with my Igo-L or AGA-T2, as they have a solid pin in the base.

Since the connector pin on the K100 seems to be of a size that somehow matches the ID of the Kanger connector, it may be adversely affecting the connection on your tanks as well.

 

[Sucker_dad]

YouTube

I must apologize I was feeling particularly smart allecky that day. Hope your problem can be figured out.

 

[tortugo23]

I must apologize I was feeling particularly smart allecky that day. Hope your problem can be figured out.

No big deal, a lot gets lost through text/internet. I am on the right track. It's a mechanical issue, not electrical.