Upgrade? (K100 vs Ego-C Twist)

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madqatter

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The K100 is a very popular mechanical mod. It's not one that I have personally used, though.

I would strongly recommend doing some background research before using a mechanical mod. Read the rechargeable batteries page and Baditude's blogs on understanding mod batteries, read up on mechanical mod safety, watch some videos on mechanical maintenance, own a multimeter and use it to regularly test your batteries, atomizers, and mod. Remember, with a mechanical mod, you're the safety feature. If you're going to do it, do it carefully. :thumb:

You will definitely want the highest quality batteries you can afford and a high quality charger, both from a reputable source such as RTD Vapor, Lighthound, or somewhere comparable. Read the rechargeable batteries page and Baditude's blogs on understanding mod batteries first.
 

dice57

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The K100 is coming with batteries. My atty is going to be dual coil for a total of 0.4ohm of resistance. Will a kick work with sub-ohm resistance? And what kind of batteries should I get with this setup. I'm scared now XD

An Evolv kick 2 will let you go down to .5 ohm builds and up to 15 watts output. The original kick and the clones use builds of 1.3-3 ohms but only go up to 10 watts for the evolve and 12 watts for the Smoktech kick clone.

The Evolv kick 2 is the better option IMO. has dual ground pins that virtually eliminate misfires, and has an improved power regulation, allowing great range of sub ohm builds and high watt outputs. They do recommend to only use imr batteries with the kick. Really enjoy using mine. Make for a nice consistent vape, and gives me the protection found in a regulated mod. Plus I can unkick it and vape at the 20+ watt level, if I choose, but seem to prefer 15 watts.
 

Russkiy

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An Evolv kick 2 will let you go down to .5 ohm builds and up to 15 watts output. The original kick and the clones use builds of 1.3-3 ohms but only go up to 10 watts for the evolve and 12 watts for the Smoktech kick clone.

The Evolv kick 2 is the better option IMO. has dual ground pins that virtually eliminate misfires, and has an improved power regulation, allowing great range of sub ohm builds and high watt outputs. They do recommend to only use imr batteries with the kick. Really enjoy using mine. Make for a nice consistent vape, and gives me the protection found in a regulated mod. Plus I can unkick it and vape at the 20+ watt level, if I choose, but seem to prefer 15 watts.

Will it still work with a 0.4ohm atty?
 

Lessifer

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Most fuses have 5-7amp switches, meaning the fuse will trip if you pull more than that. Use this Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator or something like it to figure out how many amps you're drawing with your desired resistance, use 4.2v since that's theoretically what your battery puts out on a full charge(it's usually lower due to voltage drop of the mod/battery).

Out of curiosity, why are you dead set on a 0.4 dual coil? Is that what your friend builds, and will he be building it for you? A single micro coil at 0.9ohm will give you a warm, flavorful vape with loads of vapor, and will be well within the amp limit of most batteries.
 

dice57

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the better the atomizer the better the nic delivery and vape production. If you vape your .4 ohm build on a straight mech mod with fresh battery you will be vaping at 44.1 watts. Unless your build can wick like crazy and has great air intake, that is going to be like maximum overload, even with my .64 ohm build, I would be at 27.56 watts un kicked. :vapor::vapor::vapor: Just had to give it a try. lol, Okay, kind of enjoying the 27 watt vapor, slightly warmer, not much, slightly more vape than at 15 watts. more nic hit, kind of dizzy right now, will have to try a .5 build I guess and see what 35 watts will do. lmao.

I have dropped from 24mg nic to 12mg nic, mainly because my builds deliver nic so much more efficiently now, that I had to lower my nic or walk around dazed and confused. You will probably find 18mg to high of nic if your build can handle the high watts. And as long as you get enough air through your atomizer, heat shouldn't be a problem but vape with caution for sure. What will happen is that your juice will disappear at an unheard rate, and your battery volts will drop pretty fast at that level and before you know it you'll be at a mere 30 watts. You'll also risk draining your batter totally dry and not be able to hold a charge if that happens. That's one of the reasons I enjoy using the kick 2. The extra 10 watts or more doesn't seem to deliver that much of a better vape, but till I build a .5ohm coil, can't be certain of that. lol.

As far as the kick 2 pushing a .4 ohm build, don't know, it may, but, it may damage it and be out $45. Also once wicked and juiced your build may read up to .2 ohms more. Just measured my build, and it is up to .76 now, so only vaping at ~23watts. Ultimately the decision is yours. Not that hard to slap in a new build in any case.
 

Russkiy

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the better the atomizer the better the nic delivery and vape production. If you vape your .4 ohm build on a straight mech mod with fresh battery you will be vaping at 44.1 watts. Unless your build can wick like crazy and has great air intake, that is going to be like maximum overload, even with my .64 ohm build, I would be at 27.56 watts un kicked. :vapor::vapor::vapor: Just had to give it a try. lol, Okay, kind of enjoying the 27 watt vapor, slightly warmer, not much, slightly more vape than at 15 watts. more nic hit, kind of dizzy right now, will have to try a .5 build I guess and see what 35 watts will do. lmao.

I have dropped from 24mg nic to 12mg nic, mainly because my builds deliver nic so much more efficiently now, that I had to lower my nic or walk around dazed and confused. You will probably find 18mg to high of nic if your build can handle the high watts. And as long as you get enough air through your atomizer, heat shouldn't be a problem but vape with caution for sure. What will happen is that your juice will disappear at an unheard rate, and your battery volts will drop pretty fast at that level and before you know it you'll be at a mere 30 watts. You'll also risk draining your batter totally dry and not be able to hold a charge if that happens. That's one of the reasons I enjoy using the kick 2. The extra 10 watts or more doesn't seem to deliver that much of a better vape, but till I build a .5ohm coil, can't be certain of that. lol.

As far as the kick 2 pushing a .4 ohm build, don't know, it may, but, it may damage it and be out $45. Also once wicked and juiced your build may read up to .2 ohms more. Just measured my build, and it is up to .76 now, so only vaping at ~23watts. Ultimately the decision is yours. Not that hard to slap in a new build in any case.

I'm going to be dripping, and i probably will be stepping down to 12mg.
My friend vapes at 0.14ohm and he recommended 0.4ohm for me, so I'm going to try it out. If i don't like it, i can always rebuild my atty to a higher resistance.
 

Russkiy

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Why not try something like a micro coil? 10 wraps of 28g around a 1/16" drill bit with a cotton ball wick will get you about 1-1.2ohm, and will provide a more than decent vape.

I'll definitely add this to my list of things to try once I'm more familiar with building coils!

Thanks :)

Is a micro-coil just thinner wire?
 

Lessifer

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I'll definitely add this to my list of things to try once I'm more familiar with building coils!

Thanks :)

Is a micro-coil just thinner wire?

A micro coil is actually one of the easier coils to learn to build well. The thicker the wire, the easier it is to wrap. It's a very tightly wrapped(touching as much as possible) coil, with a smaller than "normal" internal diameter, usually 1/16" or less.

Here's one of my early ones.
 

Russkiy

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A micro coil is actually one of the easier coils to learn to build well. The thicker the wire, the easier it is to wrap. It's a very tightly wrapped(touching as much as possible) coil, with a smaller than "normal" internal diameter, usually 1/16" or less.

Here's one of my early ones.

Will definitely try it out! Would you be willing to sell supplies to make one of these coils? I don't want to go out and buy a large quantity just to test.
 

Lessifer

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Will definitely try it out! Would you be willing to sell supplies to make one of these coils? I don't want to go out and buy a large quantity just to test.

All you need is your wire and your wick of choice, most use cotton for wicks(just plain cotton balls). Did you order wire to go with your RDA?

To do this build you take your wire, wrap it around a mold, I use drill bits for different sizes but you can use a precision screwdriver, a nail, a paper clip, a toothpick. Basically anything thin and strong enough to wrap tightly on.

You then mount the coil in your RDA, remove the mold, and insert your wick. With the cotton you just take a small tuft, twist it between your fingers to form a wick, then insert.

The basic concept is simple, the fun is in the tweaking once you learn the basics.
 

ronpaek100

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the better the atomizer the better the nic delivery and vape production. If you vape your .4 ohm build on a straight mech mod with fresh battery you will be vaping at 44.1 watts. Unless your build can wick like crazy and has great air intake, that is going to be like maximum overload, even with my .64 ohm build, I would be at 27.56 watts un kicked. :vapor::vapor::vapor: Just had to give it a try. lol, Okay, kind of enjoying the 27 watt vapor, slightly warmer, not much, slightly more vape than at 15 watts. more nic hit, kind of dizzy right now, will have to try a .5 build I guess and see what 35 watts will do. lmao.

I have dropped from 24mg nic to 12mg nic, mainly because my builds deliver nic so much more efficiently now, that I had to lower my nic or walk around dazed and confused. You will probably find 18mg to high of nic if your build can handle the high watts. And as long as you get enough air through your atomizer, heat shouldn't be a problem but vape with caution for sure. What will happen is that your juice will disappear at an unheard rate, and your battery volts will drop pretty fast at that level and before you know it you'll be at a mere 30 watts. You'll also risk draining your batter totally dry and not be able to hold a charge if that happens. That's one of the reasons I enjoy using the kick 2. The extra 10 watts or more doesn't seem to deliver that much of a better vape, but till I build a .5ohm coil, can't be certain of that. lol.

As far as the kick 2 pushing a .4 ohm build, don't know, it may, but, it may damage it and be out $45. Also once wicked and juiced your build may read up to .2 ohms more. Just measured my build, and it is up to .76 now, so only vaping at ~23watts. Ultimately the decision is yours. Not that hard to slap in a new build in any case.

I accidentally build a coil setup and it came out to .4 ohms and it didn't fire with the kick 2 so I think it just doesn't fire when it's lower than .5 ohms.

Dice57: I have a question since you use a kick 2 does the kick 2 itself give off heat? because I've let my friend use my nemesis mod with a kick 2 set at 15 watts and when I got back my mod it felt very hot but it felt like it was towards the top cap where the kick 2 was not where the battery is and i'm using a orbtronics 2900 mAH high drain battery. If it doesn't need air flow I was thinking of using the stealth cap for the nemesis but i'm not sure since it felt hot and btw I was using a KFL+ on top of the nemesis mod.

And I was wondering if you use a kick 2 does it matter what battery you use I think I've read somewhere that they recommend IMR batteries if I were to choose a 18650 would the 2900 mAH battery provide me with a longer vape since it's regulated now? I wasn't sure how that work cause I know with a mech mod mAH don't really mean anything cause of the drop off rate.
 
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