Recent content by State O' Flux

I started smoking when I was 13, in the early 70s. I quit in 2013 when I started vaping. I gradually weaned myself off vaping by reducing nicotine content, down to zero... but continued to vape until 2018, when I quit altogether. For me, vaping became far less interesting and pleasurable without...

I never got rid of anything I had at the time, dated but... still have all the mods (18650), attys, supplies and tools I had then. But I do appreciate the 'what's new and .....in'' information, ducasse. Attys seem about the same, other than the size, in conjunction with larger batteries. I do...

I quite vaping in 2018. I decided to get back into it (ain't getting any younger, don't care to get much older... and I miss nicotine) Anyway, I was mostly into drippers and squonkers, typically using 316L at around 0.3 ohms and Japanese organic make-up pads to make wicks. So boys, girls and...

Click the link in my sigline.

Click the links in my sigline.

You have it backwards. When using SS wire, compared to Kanthal of the same gauge... reducing resistance will decrease the "heat capacity" (heat up and cool down times) values, while increasing resistance will increase the time required for heat up/cool down. Other points of interest... To...

What atomizer (and/or coil design) would require you to destabilize a stabilized coil in order to install wicking?

Best guess? At 40 watts (above Ohm's law value)... your wicking "potential" can't keep up with the speed (or relative temperature and time-to-temperature) at which the juice is consumed. How to find out? Drop it down to around 30 watts to see if it still burns. Among others... your juice PG/VG...

I've seen plenty of misspellings of Kanthal, but I don't recall ever seeing "Kantian" within those ranks. Wild guess - "vaping wire". ;)

Standin' on a corner in Winslow Arizona.

Unless you've used these heat flux values before, and prefer them... I think you'll find these values to be on the cool side. As an example, I build RDAs to obtain a 275-300 mW/mm² HF, RTAs typically a bit cooler, around 250 mW/mm², plus/minus. Granted, "heat" is an individual preference... but...

Welcome to the asylum, Willies lover... From the way your post is written, you seem to be a pretty sharp guy, with a decent understanding of safety issues. What you have on order is "copacetic"... no real red flags there. You're efforts to obtain genuine batteries... lets just say that I wish...

"E-pipes" are more a mechanical mod form factor than a complete, ready to vape device. Examples (but not any specific endorsement) might be the PipeSmith "Huntsman" or ePipeMods "Jazz". Both have 22mm shanks and will smoothly accept any 22mm RTA. There are plenty of 22mm pipe stems as well...

Unless you used a shrink wrap too large for the application, applying a bit more heat to the "wrinkled" area will pull them out, but... if they don't hang up or drag in the mod, it's not that big a deal... as a good coverage and fit on the ends is more important than on the length.

Click the jpg above. Values are calculated using 4.0V battery voltage and Steam Engine default Kanthal wire gauge diameters.