RDA Veritas clone

[Tagi]

yes,tightened it will be to close for the pinless mods. On mine I used a insulator from a atty I could not stand and extended to pin. Its now tight and has more then enough room for the hybrid mods. I was at first doing the same thing, but got tired of the spinning post.

It really is an awesome rda, it just needs a little tweeking to work for my purposes (all my mechs but one are hybrids.)

 

[Smellybelly]

Yeah I'm not giving up on it yet. I mean Ifor i had known that I would have to invest more money into it and time then I wouldn't have gotten it but now that I have it, we'll I'm going to make it work. I will still probably get and origen v3 clone

 

[Tagi]

The origins are my favorite mouth to lung rdas. The V3 can do restricted lung pulls. It has the same positive pin issue with hybrids. But with it you cannot lossen the pin, if you do it will push up and short.

 

[Smellybelly]

Well i don't know what happened today. I have ordered a new insulator. The ceramic one but I still wanted to play with my veritas so I took it apart and rinsed it. I mainly did this just to inspect it and see what was going on and I didn't want to get a bunch of juice on me so that's why I rinsed it out. Now mind you I had washed it with soap and water before I even put a coil on it in the first place.

So after I put it back together and what not I put it away. It would have stayed away but a friend wanted to see it. I was explaining the issue with it and the weird taste and he wanted to try it. So I wicked it up and juiced it and no freaking taste at least not for the most part up until after maybe 12 hits or so and even then it was very faint. So who knows what the issue was maybe there was still some machine oil I was vaping or what not, but I'm going to get some high powered degreaser and put it in a bath over night and then rinse it in alcohol and then water and still put the new insulator in when I get it

 

[defdock]

On that stupid note, I also have a problem recently with this rda.

I understand it has limited airflow.

A buddy of mine bought at EVIC mod, and want my veritas for "times he feels like cranking to 60w".

Im having trouble finding a build that does not "over heat" past 30w. I only have 32g and 28

Any help is appreciated

 

[Tagi]

On that stupid note, I also have a problem recently with this rda.

I understand it has limited airflow.

A buddy of mine bought at EVIC mod, and want my veritas for "times he feels like cranking to 60w".

Im having trouble finding a build that does not "over heat" past 30w. I only have 32g and 28

Any help is appreciated

4 strand parallel 28 gauge single coil. 9\64bit (3.572mm) 3.5mmish is what your looking for. 4 wraps. if 4 wraps gives you hot leg issues try 5 wraps. Works good 50-60w 60 will be a bit warmer.

 

[Smellybelly]

What would be the resistance about on that

 

[Tagi]

4 wraps =.26
5= .32
ish

leg length will make the final ohm vary.

for warned, tricky atty to build and 4 strand 28 gauge makes it even more so.

the 4 wrap watch the legs, it like to hot leg.

With capturing on the screw, twisting the legs helps.
Hold the lead as close as you can to the coil on the bit with needle nose, and with another set twist the leads.

 

[manthe]

I've had my Veritas for prob close to a year now (which is practically a lifetime in 'vape years') and it is one of the few - at times the only - dripper that has remained in my 'daily rotation' regardless of what else I've acquired, gotten rid of, become enamored with, etc. it's just a great RDA all around. Not THE best flavor - but certainly in the top 3-4. Not very easy to build - but well worth the effort. It is solid, dependable, super easy to re-drip (I drip in through the air hole), never leaks, it looks great has the perfect amount of airflow for me, etc, etc. so it may not be the absolute best flavor or super 'cloudy'...but what it offers me is the best 'all-around' experience. I have the authentic - but to be honest - I had a chance to compare it to the EHPro version clone and I literally could not find a single difference at all!

As for building it - I keep it simple - a single, 6-8 wrap, 24ga (kanthan) horizontal coil wicked with Japanese cotton, 'U' style and cut the ends just long enough to touch the bottom of the deck on either side. This build never lets me down and always performs flawlessly.

PS - re your original post - it does very much sound like machine oil caked in the 'hard to reach/clean' areas to me as well. Your plan for the long soak and rinse will most likely solve your problem. Also, swapping your insulator is a must in your situation as well. Good luck!

 

[Smellybelly]

So I finally fixed my veritas clone. The ceramic hex nut option was too expensive. 15 dollars a piece and minimum order is 5. I wasn't about to spend 75 to fix a 20 dollar rda. Anyways I remembered that silicone is pretty heat resistant while I was using a silicone glove while I was grilling. Then I remembered that I had some old kanger subtank coil heads that I was going to rebuild. Well they have a silicone insulator with an I.D. that is pretty much the same O.D. as the positive post on the veritas so I trimmed one to fit and voila. Works like magic and now I am flavor town. Awesome freaking rda.

 

[Tagi]

Its great you got it going. for a direct replacement google this

PEEK M2 nut
Pitch: 0.4mm
B x H: 4mm x 1.6mm
I believe these are the correct specs

 

[WharfRat1976]

 

[Tagi]

What wire gauge are you running. I love parallels in the Veritas. Also I hope that pin is tightened down and not wobbly. IT could be a hard short waiting to happen. Did you set it like that for a little extra length?

If not, tighten her down. I have noticed over time, rebuilding the Veritas will loosen the positive pin. If you notice it spinning then it is time to tighten it a bit. Normally the PEEK nut is recessed into the metal with just about a quarter of it sticking up.

 

[RipCigs]

Oops double post

 

[RipCigs]

I wanted to make a TC coil for my veritas, but i knew it would have a hot spot on the top lead. So first i made a triple twisted 32Awg thinking that should be enough.

Fired it, immediate hot spot and Ti turned blue. Stopped, and added a blanket

And i gotta say, it's awesome. Great flavor, noticeably stronger throat hit, i think i'm making this my main atty again

 

[WharfRat1976]

This was the double post. My apologies..

 

[WharfRat1976]

What wire gauge are you running. I love parallels in the Veritas. Also I hope that pin is tightened down and not wobbly. IT could be a hard short waiting to happen. Did you set it like that for a little extra length?

If not, tighten her down. I have noticed over time, rebuilding the Veritas will loosen the positive pin. If you notice it spinning then it is time to tighten it a bit. Normally the PEEK nut is recessed into the metal with just about a quarter of it sticking up.

Pin is tight. It's 26g, 2.5mmID, 6/5 parallel, .4ohms. Thanks for the heads up. The insulator is not seated. I had to lower the pin to get better contact so less room on the top for the parallel leads. It's not moving anywhere and the pin is not near the walls and I am not running it on a mech, that's for sure. I agree, parallels on the Veritas are great. There was always talk of a stank eminating from the clones. I would alcohol bathe it.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Senility double post.

 

[Tagi]

Pin is tight. Thanks for the heads up. The insulator is not seated. I had to lower the pin to get better contact. It's not moving anywhere and the pin is not near the walls and I am not running it on a mech, that's for sure.

Gotchya, I ran mine in a similar fashion until I found a better way. I do use mine on mechs, and they are SMPL and 4nines at that.

A spare peek nut makes a great pin extender. Remove the positive screw and put it on to where it is down against the screw head.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Gotchya, I ran mine in a similar fashion until I found a better way. I do use mine on mechs, and they are SMPL and 4nines at that.

A spare peek nut makes a great pin extender. Remove the positive screw and put it on to where it is down against the screw head.

Nice. What I need to do is get two larger nuts. Wait whut[emoji4]...I can't remember the size but the nuts it came with blow...I have always kept my top wire off the insulator. I set the build and just pry it up a little where it would intact the insulator or do a bend. Then it's just a matter of not distorting the coil on the screw down. I'm not a big fan of extending pins right at the pin either on an atty or a mod. I like the direct connection.