My First Time Vaping at 50 Watts
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I believe that would be the sx mini with dual battery extension on it if I am not mistaken.Is that just an excuse to show off your mod and cotton bacon?
What is that device? Looks familiar, and that an extended battery bay on the bottom?
It's the SX Mini M Class with the battery extension.Is that just an excuse to show off your mod and cotton bacon?
What is that device? Looks familiar, and that an extended battery bay on the bottom?
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137W on a single cell is not a great idea hence the Slightly eXtended mini
I get that, it just looks like bad design. How will you set it down?
8 watts
woh dude, be careful.Anything above 5 watts gives me the shivers.
I just don't live on the wild side.
Kinda the point for higher Watts, no? Bigger coils, bigger surface area means the build can handle higher Watts.
Resistance doesnt really matter. I can run my single coil tank at 60W on a 1,2 Ohm build. Chain vape, no dry hits.
You could build a big coil with thin wire, going 3 Ohm, that thing would handle big Watts just fine.
If anyone is curious, just build the same coil, same wire, same diameter once with, say 14 wraps, then do it with 7 wraps parallel. Resistance is down to a fourth, but the thing vapes the same on the same wattage, because essentially it's the same coil.
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I just lay it flat. Just not right after I just dripped.
Nothing wrong with the design though and most mods are too bulky for my taste. It's a 60w device with the option to run up to 150w for those who want to. Making it a series box from the get go would have ruined its form factor. There isn't another mod out there that fits so perfectly in the palm of your hand. And even with the extension, it fits perfectly in my pocket.
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1.2 ohm at 50W isn't a good vape as you found out
OK, can one or more of you give me the Sub-Ohming for Dummies short bus lesson on why a coil with less resistance is better with higher watts? The mechanics of it make no sense to me. I vape between 1.25 and 1.75 on a mech mod. In the past, the closer I get to zero or below the hotter it is. So why would a lower ohm coil handle more watts better?
This ^^^
You do need to watch the heat capacity though. If that gets too high for the power you're using you'll have noticeable heat up delay.
Also think about nickel vs Kanthal.
Using 26 gauge Kanthal at 30 watts, 7 wraps on a 3mm pin:
1.0 ohm, heat flux = 266, heat capacity = 37
Using 26 gauge nickel at 30 watts, 7 wraps on a 3mm pin:
0.066 ohms, heat flux = 266, heat capacity = 46
Both have almost exactly the same surface area and the gauge is identical. They will vape exactly the same for flavor and vapor production except the higher HC of the nickel coil will cause a bit more heat up delay.
And these coils are 1.0 ohm and 0.066 ohms.
Resistance happens from a combination of coil design choices, it does not in itself affect your vape.
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Ohms still matter on regulated mods. My SX350j won't even go above a certain wattage if the resistance is too high.
And according to Steam Engine, at max watts, it has a median resistance of 0.238 and a sweet spot at 0.42.
Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition
And according to Steam Engine, at max watts, it has a median resistance of 0.238 and a sweet spot at 0.42.
Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition
Coil design basics are exactly the same with both mechanical and regulated mods, but because power in a mech mod is set by the resistance you're quite limited in what you can do.
If you check out the two links to Steam Engine in my last post (2 above this one) you'll get an idea of how I use it to help me design coils. I manipulated the resistance and wire gauge to make the heat flux and heat capacity fall into an acceptable range for the power I designed for. I also watch the number of wraps. The I.D. of the coil can be changed also to fine tune this a bit if you want to.
My process is:
1. Chose the power.
2. Chose the number of coils.
3. Chose the number of wires/coil, parallel, twisted, etc.
4. Adjust the resistance and wire gauge so the HF and HC are where I want them.
That coil will work just fine for the power it was designed for irrelevant of the resistance. Higher ohms does need a higher voltage output from a regulated mod to get the same power compared with lower ohms, but that is a mod limitation and has nothing to do with coil requirements.
With a mech mod your resistance sets the power as per Ohm's law and you adjust wire gauge to make the HF and HC you want. In this case you need low resistance to get higher power and then you need to use thicker wire to get the HF under control. If you play around in SE a bit you'll see exactly what I mean.
My process for that is:
1. Chose the resistance to make the power I want.
2. Chose the number of coils.
3. Chose the number of wires/coil, parallel, twisted, etc.
4. Adjust wire gauge so the HF and HC are where I want them.
High power has been associated with low ohms and thick wire in mech mods for a long time. I think that's why people still believe low ohms are required for higher power even in regulated mods.
Hope that helps a bit.
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Try a different build, try to lower the resistance a little, don't be too adventurous take your time
Good luck
Good luck
I got up to 32 watts once in my Goblin Mini and that vape was too warm for me. I went back down to 17.5-20 and stayed there. My cotton didn't burn but warmer than I wanted. On my Kayfun Lite Plus I tootle at 12.5-15.
Lmao you're funny Steve love the sarcasm. I normally tootle puff at 8w on my Nauty mini's but have hit 12w for the sheer thrill of it
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