Snowman Mod, Safest Batteries For Sub ohm builds?

[MintyDripper]

Hey guys, went against the Dimitri after i saw the Snowman, just love the look of this thing, gonna be getting one in a couple days and i'm just wondering what batteries i should get for this thing. This will be my first mech, all my other mods are Regs so any tips and help would be great. I'm usually building Dual coil .2 and above, but might dive a little bit lower if its safe.. maybe .1ohm but probly no lower then that. I Heard IMR's arent good for Unregulated mods? I see most people using Sony's, but the only ones i have seen are like 2600mah 20 amp or something like that. And the Efest IMR's i have are 3000mah 35amp. Like i said, dont know much about mechs, and i'm gonna take my time and learn before i actually start using the thing lol. But i need to know what batteries are the safest for low ohm builds so i can order them now and i dont blow my face up later. Aint nobody want that! Thanks in advance guys.

 

[sonicbomb]

The Snowman uses a parallel battery configuration. So you will get the mAh and the CDR of the batteries combined but the voltage remains the same. IMR is a safe battery chemistry. Forget the Efests, the Sony you are describing is the VTC5.

So if you use a 0.2 ohm coil it will be drawing 21 amps.
So use the Samsung 25R or the LG HG2 which are both 20 amp CDR cells. So you are drawing 21 amps from a pool of 40 amps.

If you use a 0.1 ohm coil it will be drawing 42 amps.
Use the Sony VTC4 LG HB4 or HB6 which are 30 amp cells.

Use Steam Engine main page to model your builds

I suggest you do some more reading and look at Mooch's blog
Mooch

 

[MintyDripper]

The Snowman uses a parallel battery configuration. So you will get the mAh and the CDR of the batteries combined but the voltage remains the same. IMR is a safe battery chemistry. Forget the Efests, the Sony you are describing is the VTC5.

So if you use a 0.2 ohm coil it will be drawing 21 amps.
So use the Samsung 25R or the LG HG2 which are both 20 amp CDR cells. So you are drawing 21 amps from a pool of 40 amps.

If you use a 0.1 ohm coil it will be drawing 42 amps.
Use the Sony VTC4 LG HB4 or HB6 which are 30 amp cells.

Use Steam Engine main page to model your builds

I suggest you do some more reading and look at Mooch's blog
Mooch

Ok thanks for the info, you know more about this then me, but i just have a question.. Why should i "forget" the Efest? If the Efest IMRs are safe and do the same as these other batteries you listed, why would i need to use different ones? The Efest IMR's i have now are18650's 3.7v 2500mah 20cdr and peak 35. And i know they Sell 3000mah 20-30amp too if i'm not mistaken. I mean if you think these others would be better then thats what i'll get, and i'll deff do more research like i said before i start diving into mech vaping. I Had steam on my computer but the hardrive just went on me, now all i got is this crappy tablet that isnt compatible with steam for some reason...

 

[sonicbomb]

It's vital to know what the true CDR of the cell that you are using so you can use it safely.
Efest re-wrap other manufacturers B or C grade cells with highly inflated specs printed on them, as well as other dubious business practices. Remember they are marketing these batteries directly at vapers knowing full well they may be used at the limits that are printed on them.
Not only do you not know what actual cell is under the wrapper, but they are known to change the cell they use without any notification. For the cell you are talking about, it says 35a on the label, tested and found to be a 20a cell, tested again later found to be a 10a cell. What do you think happens if you run a 10a cell at 35a? You are free to use any battery you want of course, I'm just giving you the facts.

Read this thread
Efest Purple 35A 3000mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery, equal to HG2 and 30Q though

 

[MintyDripper]

It's vital to know what the true CDR of the cell that you are using so you can use it safely.
Efest re-wrap other manufacturers B or C grade cells with highly inflated specs printed on them, as well as other dubious business practices. Remember they are marketing these batteries directly at vapers knowing full well they may be used at the limits that are printed on them.
Not only do you not know what actual cell is under the wrapper, but they are known to change the cell they use without any notification. For the cell you are talking about, it says 35a on the label, tested and found to be a 20a cell, tested again later found to be a 10a cell. What do you think happens if you run a 10a cell at 35a? You are free to use any battery you want of course, I'm just giving you the facts.

Read this thread
Efest Purple 35A 3000mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery, equal to HG2 and 30Q though

Wow, yea KABOOM... i heard something like that awhile back but i didnt think it was still happening.. and come to think of it they due drain Uneven half the time in my Istick 100w..Good to know man thank you. And i wasnt doubting your knowledge or trying to insult or anything like that, just to be clear. Again thanks for this info, i'll be changing my batts asap. I'll go with one of those you recomended for the snowman.

 

[MintyDripper]

The Snowman uses a parallel battery configuration. So you will get the mAh and the CDR of the batteries combined but the voltage remains the same. IMR is a safe battery chemistry. Forget the Efests, the Sony you are describing is the VTC5.

So if you use a 0.2 ohm coil it will be drawing 21 amps.
So use the Samsung 25R or the LG HG2 which are both 20 amp CDR cells. So you are drawing 21 amps from a pool of 40 amps.

If you use a 0.1 ohm coil it will be drawing 42 amps.
Use the Sony VTC4 LG HB4 or HB6 which are 30 amp cells.

Use Steam Engine main page to model your builds

I suggest you do some more reading and look at Mooch's blog
Mooch

Ok just one more question lol. You mentioned the sony vtc4 but not the vtc5's? and i noticed most people go for the Vtc4's instead of the Vtc5's, is there a reason behind this? wouldnt The vtc5's with more Mah be better?

 

[mhertz]

They are different cdr cells; vtc5 = 20a vs vtc4 = 30a cdr's...

 

[MintyDripper]

They are different cdr cells; vtc5 = 20a vs vtc4 = 30a cdr's...

The site i'm looking at has them both listed as 30amp. The mah is the only difference, is their listing wrong?

 

[sonicbomb]

Mooch...

 

[mhertz]

As sonicbomb stated, check out Mooch's cell testings and defined true CDR's of various popular cells...

There's a lot of good cells, but the generally best cells for different amperage's by Mooch's testings is:

<20A = Samsung 30Q and LG HG2. (Under 15A HG2, over 15A 30Q)
20A = Samsung 25R.
>20A = Sony VTC4

"Best" defined by lowest temperature and highest voltage and capacity under load...

 

[Nikea Tiber]

The VTC4 has higher current handling capabilities (CDR) than the VTC5. The VTC5 is a higher capacity cell that seems to have a certain mystique amongst the vaping crowd due to high global demand from its use in many different muti-cell battery packs (laptops, Tesla cars, etc). I have no personal experience with the vtc5 other than doing some research on them to see if it was worth tracking some down (I don't think it is).
If you are looking for a battery that will safely handle high current loads (low atomizer resistances) look no further than the VTC4. Compared to some 20 and 25 amp CDR cells, the capacity of the VTC4 falls short, but the tradeoff is a cell that runs quite cool even at 30 amps load.

 

[MintyDripper]

The VTC4 has higher current handling capabilities (CDR) than the VTC5. The VTC5 is a higher capacity cell that seems to have a certain mystique amongst the vaping crowd due to high global demand from its use in many different muti-cell battery packs (laptops, Tesla cars, etc). I have no personal experience with the vtc5 other than doing some research on them to see if it was worth tracking some down (I don't think it is).
If you are looking for a battery that will safely handle high current loads (low atomizer resistances) look no further than the VTC4. Compared to some 20 and 25 amp CDR cells, the capacity of the VTC4 falls short, but the tradeoff is a cell that runs quite cool even at 30 amps load.

Yea, well.. i've decided to stay away from mechs for now. Maybe next year i'll get the snowman lol. I still dont feel completely comfortable with starting Mech use, so i'll wait a bit longer til i know more. But i did put in an order for Some VTC4's for my istick 100w. Right now i have Efest's in there.. and i wanna get them out. They def arent what's printed on them, they've been great since i first bought them, but know i can go from full battery life to a quarter with litterally 10 puffs.. so i'm putting my istick on the shelf until the new batts get here, and now its back to the old reliable MVP 3.0 Pro.

 

[Baditude]

Yea, well.. i've decided to stay away from mechs for now. Maybe next year i'll get the snowman lol. I still dont feel completely comfortable with starting Mech use, so i'll wait a bit longer til i know more.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Right now i have Efest's in there.. and i wanna get them out. They def arent what's printed on them...

Why should i "forget" the Efest? If the Efest IMRs are safe and do the same as these other batteries you listed, why would i need to use different ones? The Efest IMR's i have now are18650's 3.7v 2500mah 20cdr and peak 35. And i know they Sell 3000mah 20-30amp too if i'm not mistaken.

Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised

 

[MintyDripper]

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod




Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised

Why did you just quote all of that? lol

 

[Baditude]

Why did you just quote all of that? lol

You said you had Efests and believed that they are safe batteries. They are "safe" as long as you know their true amp rating.

You said you were new to mech mods, so I provided a link to my blog designed to help new mech users.

It's a habit of mine to include quotes. I guess I could have just provided the links now that I think about it.

 

[MintyDripper]

You said you had Efests and believed that they are safe batteries. They are "safe" as long as you know their true amp rating.

You said you were new to mech mods, so I provided a link to my blog designed to help new mech users.

I guess I could have just provided the links now that I think about it.

lol well thanks. i just watched that 2009 Grim Green Video, interesting to see how far its come since then. I didnt even know vaping was a thing back in 2009 lol woulda started back then

 

[MintyDripper]

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod




Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised

Thanks for that link man, that was extremely helpful to better understad what your getting into with mechs, battery safety, and everything you need to know. You should head over to my thread Pics, Tips and Tricks? Rdas And Mods. Throw those links up and post some pics of your gear? Thanks again!