Attn: atomizer rebuilders

[loufalore]

Hey Vaporer,

I was able to get some 35 gauge Nichrome wire. Would you suggest using a shorter piece to get the same resistance you get with the 36 gauge at 2.25 inches?

I may have missed it earlier in the thread. What resistance are we shooting for in a coil?

Thanks

Lore

 

[loufalore]

I just disected my first 510 atty and I was disappointed. Was expecting bakelite or some other ceramic material for holding the coil. Mine was cheap plastic wrapped in the metal mesh material all around. Virtually destroyed it. I think I can rebuild it and make it work but what a mess. Is mine a cheaper version of the real thing or are the ones you have been working on the same? I'm definitely going to need a better magnifying class...

 

[loufalore]

glass I meant...

 

[Vaporer]

louf,

I use a headband magnifier.
There seems to be a lot of diffs from varying manufactures. Most I've had are ceramic cups. The larger the wire dia the less ohms per foot. 35ga is larger than 36 ga. 36ga is 27ohms per foot and 35ga is 20 ohms per foot. Divide each by 12(no. of inches) and you find 36ga is 2.25ohms per in and 35ga is 1.66ohms per inch. So with 35ga, the wire will be longer if shooting for the same ohms as a factory coil. Factory coils are normally 38ga. Getting the extra length of wire in there can be tricky sometimes without shorting it out.
The 510 has 3 diff ohm coils that I have seen. 2.3ohms, 3.4ohms and 4.5ohms for HV use. You'll need to decide what you want so you can measure the correct length.
There are a couple other things to consider making a coil.
You might want to check here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...zer-coil-101-actual-working-methods-only.html

 

[loufalore]

Thanks Vaporer. This is exactly what I needed...I was going the wrong way with the resistance...thinking the thicker wire would produce more...been a while since highschool electronics...Thanks again.

 

[Vaporer]

No Problem.
Everyone doesnt grow up using these things but are quite capable with the right info.
Think of wire as a water pipe. The bigger it is, the more water(current) it can handle.
The smaller pipe moves less water due to more resistance.

 

[jenntek]

I have had 2 offers for the dead atty's. I will be sending them out.
When these atty's die, I'll post... I still don't know WHERE to post... In this thread?

 

[Vaporer]

jenntek,

I would PM the names that made the offers, one at a time when you are ready to ship, in the order you received them.
That would be the easiest and fairest way IMO.

 

[jenntek]

haha... I did that this morning, before you posted.
I have to check now... LoL! I almost forgot!


Hey? all that $$$ I've saved on "Not smoking analogs?"????
How much of all this money have we spent on vaping products?
(I bet I've spent over $800! LoL! Its well worth it... Lemme tell ya!~

 

[loufalore]

louf,

I use a headband magnifier.
There seems to be a lot of diffs from varying manufactures. Most I've had are ceramic cups. The larger the wire dia the less ohms per foot. 35ga is larger than 36 ga. 36ga is 27ohms per foot and 35ga is 20 ohms per foot. Divide each by 12(no. of inches) and you find 36ga is 2.25ohms per in and 35ga is 1.66ohms per inch. So with 35ga, the wire will be longer if shooting for the same ohms as a factory coil. Factory coils are normally 38ga. Getting the extra length of wire in there can be tricky sometimes without shorting it out.
The 510 has 3 diff ohm coils that I have seen. 2.3ohms, 3.4ohms and 4.5ohms for HV use. You'll need to decide what you want so you can measure the correct length.
There are a couple other things to consider making a coil.
You might want to check here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...zer-coil-101-actual-working-methods-only.html

I have 30 feet of 35 Gauge so, lots to play with. Going to experiment a bit with different lengths and wattages as well to see what glows well.
Got a couple of dead 510s and 901s to play with.

 

[EliXColdiron]

I just read through most of this and I just wanted to say, y'all are intense. Good luck with all your endeavors.

 

[lulubell360]

Hi Neighbor,

Heheh, you live in Baja (Lower) Alabama. I'm out northeast of Robertsdale.

crazyhorse

Where is Baja Al.?I live in Summerdale just 17 miles north of Gulf Shores.

Hey neighbors I live in Gulf Shores just moved from Foley. Maybe we can be some kind of local support for each other. Somehow. Are ya'll both aware of the discount tobacco store by winn dixie in Robertsdale that sales juice & other e cig items?

 

[crazyhorse]

Hey Lulubell,

I know the store but haven't been in there in many years.

Your idea sounds good. I need all the support I can get these days

Seriously, Tim is a great guy. We had a nice visit in R'dale one day last year.

 

[Idaho Ron]

With a 801, it takes about two seconds to pop the guts out all in one piece and two seconds to shove it all back in. If the bridge could be modified to be removable, the coil would be wide open and dirt simple to work on.

How do you do that without destroying it?

 

[antisocialbutterfly]

It seems to me that there are miniature ceramic heater "coils" used somewhere. I just can't place where I have seen them. Like 3mm or 4mm diameter and 1mm or 2mm thick. Does this sound familiar to anyone? They would be more durable and less likely to be susciptible to juice. Just a thought.

I am a bit of a hacker and found my way here out of basic interest. I may be offering an option, or taking up space...

What about the heating element of the ilk they use in Vector lighters? The red coil ignites butane to create a flame. Without the butane, the coil just burns red hot.

I'm too new to the forum and cannot yet post links, but phonetically their site is vectorkgm dot com. You can view them in person at most cigar stores and tobacco shops; they have a store locator on their site.

FWIW, HTH.

 

[crazyhorse]

How do you do that without destroying it?

I use a short piece of 3/8" copper tubing or a piece of plastic sink faucet feed pipe as a punch for tapping the guts out from the top (cartridge end). Sometimes, depending on the strength of the glue and the tightness of the knurl, I put a few wraps of inner tube rubber around the atomizer body and grab it with with vise grips to hold it more securely.

 

[Vaporer]

crazyhorses method works pretty darn well on the 801's. The pipe is large enough to clear the bridge and the tire tube give a good scratch free grip on it. We've used that rubber grip method on a lot of things.

There is another method usually on the 1st page of the atty modders section that uses a bolt, nut and a spacer to pressure force it apart. It seems to be a hit or miss. There are 2 types of 801's some having a deeper center connector. The bolt listed is a standard thread. So it grips some and may not have enough to grab others before bottoming out. If you could get the exact metric bolt & nut then use the spacer it'd do abt 80%.
Once they are knocked apart, I never reglue them on reassembly. The splines hold plenty tight enough and make for an easy rebuild next time and come apart pretty easy.

I need to look into some tubing sizes that can work with the smaller 510 & 901 attys. 1/4" copper seems to be a close choice by eying it. Might need to spin it in a drill to take a bit off the OD and then drill the ID to clear the bridge. After that, you could use crazyhorses method on them too. I drop mine in a cup of boiling water for abt 15 to soften the glue and then go after them. Many will come loose just screwed into a battery, but you do stand the chance of pulling the battery connector loose. If that happens, hopefully you used and old dead battery and you can apply super glue after a rubbing alcohol cleaning and glue it back in!

If you want to buy the exact tap & die sizes, to use as extractors, they are listed in a post on here with a source to purchase from.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, so I was bored today...

Here is a 12v cigarette lighter coil stuffed into a pill fob (2.5ohms)
I used a 12v 1.5A power source and did a dripp method using 3 drops. Plumes of vapor I nearly choked LOL

It took about 8 seconds to heat up using 1.5A and after that I could control the heating by cycling the power button. This was just a test to see if it would work and low and behold it does. Here are some pics:
Dan

 

[nicotime]

Ok, so I was bored today...

Here is a 12v cigarette lighter coil stuffed into a pill fob
I used a 12v 1.5A power source and did a dripp method using 3 drops. Plumes of vapor I nearly choked LOL

It took about 8 seconds to heat up using 1.5A and after that I could control the heating by cycling the power button. This was just a test to see if it would work and low and behold it does. Here are some pics:
Dan

So you was driving down the road and realized you forgot your PV and started dripping in the cig lighter huh? Amazing how things get invented out of desperation right Dan!

Thats what I was thinking when I asked about the flat nichrome wire. What do you have backing the coil underneath, like a bed of silica? Oh...and does it pop out when your done vaping?

 

[Scubabatdan]

So you was driving down the road and realized you forgot your PV and started dripping in the cig lighter huh? Amazing how things get invented out of desperation right Dan!

Thats what I was thinking when I asked about the flat nichrome wire. What do you have backing the coil underneath, like a bed of silica? Oh...and does it pop out when your done vaping?

Its basically the coil and supporting barrel it is attached to. I cut the barrel off leaving a strip of the side for a pos connector. I then removed the ceramic bottom the neg connecter was attached to and removed the center bolt and flipped the neg connector so it centered the coil in the pill fob. Used a USB connecter and inline switch (3A) to pulse power once hot. Must be careful as the pill fob conducted the heat from the neg connector touching the coil. Will try silica rope to further isolate the heat from transmitting to the pill fob.

Also if it gets to hot it will shoot out into you face jk

Actually it performs quite well, just have to monitor it heating up to much. I will check the temp at 5vdc 1.5A and 12vdc 1.5A with my laser thermometer and see how hot this sucker gets. My power supply came from one of my hard drive power supplys for an external USB mass storage adapter.

I did leave it on and connected for 1 minute dry to see if the coil turned red hot but it never did.

Well more testing to be had, more to come
Dan