Wood Calling all Woodworkers: best sandless polish option?

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VictorViper

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Hi folks, I'm hoping we have a few woodworkers among us, as I bought a woody mod on Friday and want to keep it in the best condition possible. Ideally, I'd also like to avoid any sanding.

The wood is natural Kamagong, and I've already applied a single coat of liquid beeswax (solvent was lemon oil, I believe). What I'm looking for is a natural, sandless wax option that will, first and foremost, protect the mod from daily use, but also retain its natural (matte) finish.

If anyone has advise or product preferences, etc. I'd love to hear them. I'd also appreciate any insight in terms of making sure I'm not waxing too frequently or infrequently - what are the signs to look for that it's time for a fresh coat?

Thanks in advance. It's a beautiful piece, but I'm not one to let functional beauty sit idle. It's going to be very familiar with my grubby mitts!

[EDIT] I should note that I take great pleasure in the rituals of maintenance, so fast drying options or single-coat applications aren't a priority. Thanks again.
 

jcco

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Howdee VV,
I never use wax for a fine wood finish. I prefer Watco Danish Oil.

WATCO® Danish Oil Product Page

This oil penetrates, seals & actually hardens the wood. No idea what "kamagong" is, color, etc.

Home Despair [Depot] & Lowes both carry it.
You would have to get all the wax off 1st. Then AFTER you let the Watco set up you can wax over it for further protection although I would just skip the wax altogether.

Hope that helps

JC
 
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jbok

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I recommend tongue oil, however, your going to need to sand the stuff you applied on it. No way will it stick to it. I know it may be a pain but use some 220g to get that off. With wax your going to have to keep reapplying it every so often. With tongue oil you can apply with a cheap brush and then wipe off the excess, sand lightly 220 and repeat about five times. Its one of the hardest natural finishes I have worked with and its sexy.
 

suprtrkr

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I believe kamagong is used for handles of martial arts weapons. Perhaps researching that may help.
Indeed it is; Kamagong is one of the martial arts woods. The heartwood is very dark in color, extremely dense and hard. Bokken, the wooden practice swords, use this wood by preference. The Philippine variety is protected and requires permission from the Bureau of Forestry to export. All natural varieties are rated as VU or vulnerable under IUCN 2.3, therefore requiring ethical sourcing documentation to import into the US.

I'd be careful about traveling internationally with that mod, were I you. Especially if you don't have the documents...
 

VictorViper

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Thanks for the input. I was hoping to avoid Tung oil because the process is so lengthy, it'll impede usage. I'm also hoping to avoid synthetics (enduro var looks nice though) and citrus oils.

I keep coming back to the beeswax. Is there a reason anyone would specifically advise against its use?

Oh, and Kamagong is a kind of ebony. Incredibly hard and very dark, also very pricey so I want to ensure it enjoys a long life.

To the Tung advocates, do you have a rough idea how long I could go between reapplications? I'll happily take the time if it's resilient enough to last a good long time.

Thanks again!

[EDIT] I'm aware of the restrictions on this wood and it took no small effort to get into my hands in Canada, so it'll be staying local. Thanks for looking out though, would be a devastating confiscation.
 

suprtrkr

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I have no reason to advise against beeswax. I personally don't like it because of the need for re-application periodically. Tung is a lengthy process, In general, it can be applied as soon as it stops being sticky to the touch, but this can take 12-48 hours depending on temp and humidity. FWIW, I have found I get the best finish if I let it dry thoroughly-- sorry to say this takes days-- and steel wool it a bit, followed by a tack cloth, before re-application. One coat will be useful. Three will be awesome. Ten approaches miraculous. You make the call.
 
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VictorViper

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I would absolutely make sure to coat and recoat again and again. I have no qualms taking my mod out of commission for a few weeks do do a proper job, but again my concern would be how often I need to do that.

I've been keen on beeswax simply because it's a natural solution, and I don't mind applying frequently. That Watco product looks near-perfect, but utilizes mineral spirits (petroleum), something else I'm trying to stay away from.

At the end of the day, I just want to ensure I'm doing everything in my power to give this lovely little block of exotic wood the attention and care it deserves.
 

suprtrkr

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VV, it further occurs to me there's no particular hurry about applying follow-on coats. Thus, I see no reason you couldn't apply a coat of Tung, let it dry enough to stop being sticky, and then use it for several days before taking it back out of commission for another coat. Obviously one would want to clean it thoroughly before a follow-on coat to remove skin oils and so forth.
 
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VictorViper

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Yeah, I suppose there would be no harm in that until I get to the final (sandless) coating, but if I'm going to need to sand away my base coating of beeswax, I might as well keep things as free from contamination as possible. I do have a copper mod that sees heavy use, so shelving the unit won't leave me in a bind. :)
 

VictorViper

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this thread is useless w/out pictures!!!! :D

Ask and ye shall receive! Carvings here, yes, which is one of my main concerns with sanding. Excuse the shockingly white leg. Been in my trunks all day trying to stay cool.

3jLa5MG.jpg
 

VictorViper

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I've refinished a few gun stocks for my brother and I used a Polymerized Tung oil, which dries faster than regular Tung. Looked around and found the can, it's this stuff. Polymerized Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools

If I do end up using Tung oil, I'll stick with the pure stuff. I'm trying to avoid polymers, petroleum and citrus. Thanks though!
 
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