Alright, I've been trying to read up and learn about this stuff but still have some unresolved questions. When it comes to dripping, the way I see it, there are 3 options. One is to modify a tank or atomizer not really made for dripping. Two is an rba or rta which it appears if you get into this you're building your own atomizer with wire and wick. The third, best I can figure is a dripping atomizer. I was looking at the HH.357 from Avid Vaper : Personal Vaporizers and Accessories and am a little confused. Is this thing basically disposable? My other option is something like the igo-w or igo-l which I know are rebuildable. The HH.357 and igo(s) are very close in price. From my limited experience with protanks and the like, the atomizers go bad within a month. This makes me skiddish about getting something like the HH.357 if it's just going to go bad on me in a month and be worthless afterward. Any advice?
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With the HH.357, eventually it will go bad yes. However, read up and watch the videos on maintaining and cleaning the HH.357, proper care and they can last a good few months. RDAs like the Igo's are another option, takes a little more learning to use one safely and build one safely, however, once a coil or wick goes bad, their strengths are you can rebuild them. RBA/RTA's, depending on the style is another learning curve, especially in the Genesis types like the RSST, a lot of fiddling and trouble shooting involved with them. If you are going the route of a dripper for juice testing, I'd suggest start with a basic 510 or 306 dripping atty, they are disposable, but have been around a while, the HH.357 is a higher end 510 bridgeless dripper, so try out a couple Joyetech 510 bridgeless atty's to start before dropping the dough on an HH.357, basic 510 can last up to about a month very heavy abuse with proper cleaning, and I'd use the methods Avid vaper suggest for the .357 until you feel comfortable with them.
I started with a 306 and went straight to RDA/RBA's after a lot of research, reading and the right tools. I thought about the HH357 but never bought it since I was happy with the 306.
A couple of 306's will get you in the right track and you will enjoy the flavor change compared to a carto. They do go bad. Mine lasted a few weeks of heavy vaping. Give them a bit of TLC and they will work.
Down the road if you want to try some rebuildables, you got to do your homework an read, ask as many questions you have and practice safety by having a multimeter and knowledge in ohms law.
Good luck.
A couple of 306's will get you in the right track and you will enjoy the flavor change compared to a carto. They do go bad. Mine lasted a few weeks of heavy vaping. Give them a bit of TLC and they will work.
Down the road if you want to try some rebuildables, you got to do your homework an read, ask as many questions you have and practice safety by having a multimeter and knowledge in ohms law.
Good luck.
I've heard great things about the HH.357, but it's not in my budget. I drip with plain 510 and 306 (which have 510 threading) attys and they perform just fine. As Nosmik said, they are a good place to start and you can get them for ≈ $7.00. I have a blog about dripping you might find useful:
Drip, Drip, Drip
Drip, Drip, Drip
I have an hh 357 and I have to say it is the best dripper I have ever had. I would suggest that you look up GrimmGreen and PBusardo on YouTube. Grim took his apart his old one after an unfortunate incident that involved a dunk in a toilet. If I remember correctly he stated that he had been using his for about 11 months before it drowned.
Just my two cents
Just my two cents
I was using a cheap 510 ATTY. Just got an IGO L in today, built my first coil, used cotton from a cotton ball, and vaping like a champ. Probably took me 20 minutes of fiddling around (old hands and old eyes). Quite pleased with it!
I recommend one of the disposable drip atty's before going to the Rebuildable route. Either dripping on a disposable atty or using a RDA (rebuildable drip atomizer) aren't for everyone, and the Rebuildables are much more involved requiring some research to do safely.
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Is there anyway to clear old taste from cotton wicks like how we torch the silica wicks?
dual micro coiling an Omega dripper is not fun AT ALL. So I had to stick to the same flavor for weeks
dual micro coiling an Omega dripper is not fun AT ALL. So I had to stick to the same flavor for weeks
Thanks for all of the feedback! I'm certain I could handle a rebuildable, just not sure I want to fiddle with it yet. First, I've got an iTaste MVP 2. Will the resistance meter on that be sufficient to test an atomizer on something like the igo-l or do I need a separate meter before I dive down that path? I'm also looking at the lower dollar Cisco spec atomizers, do they all fit standard 510 drip tips? I'm also curious, maybe a dumb question, but I know the 510 is a standardized threading/size, what is 306? Is it a different standardized size or does it mean something else?
Regardless of what type of delivery system, All coils will go bad. an RBA is pricey, but it pays for itself in the long run if you get the hang of the process. I get wire at about 8 cents a foot and wick can be bought around 50 cents a foot. I wrap micro coils and to me they are easier to wrap and also easier to maintain and clean.
I would like to know as well. Would the resistance check from an APV be good enough for a rebuildable?
The ohm checker on the MVPv2 will work but I greatly recommend investing in a multimeter. They are not expensive and you can use it for other projects. You don't have to buy a Fluke, just a basic digital one.
As for the 306, it has a different case but will fit on a 510 thread device. Someone will chime in case I'm missing something about them.
As for the 306, it has a different case but will fit on a 510 thread device. Someone will chime in case I'm missing something about them.
The Ohm Reader on the MVP V2 will suffice for a bit, but a dedicated multi-meter is the best for checking other things like shorts and such more thoroughly. Yes the Cisco Spec drip atty is a 510 Drip atty so will fit most 510 drip tips. A 306 drip atty uses 510 threading, the differences between a 510 and 306 are 1) the 306 is just the guts of a 510 dripper without the metal cup surrounding it, it is far older than the 510, back when plastic cartridges were filled with a foam soaking in nic liquid that fit down on the over the 306, the bridge penetraded a foil seal then wicked liquid to the coil, nowadays the 306 you use a 306 drip tip that fits over the atty base. 2) The 510 drip atty has a cup that helps hold liquid a bit and is a cooler vape than the 306 for some reason, possibly to do with the metal cup helps cool the vape on the way up, though I have heard the taste from a 306 is better than a 510 by a little bit.
Drip shields are useful, it is a sleeve with a hole under the top o-ring and can prevent leaking liquid all over the place if you overfill a 510 atty, they work really usefully when using a 306 atty though, just requires a longer 306 drip tip on a 306, 510 drip atty standard barrel, need a sealed 510-510 adapter to raise the cup up to the top of the shield to get a drip tip on it, but no, not really necessary for using a basic 510 dripper or Cisco spec dripper.
That's not a dumb question and it has an interesting answer. People refer to devices as having "510 threading," which suggests it is a thread size, but it isn't. If you went to a hardware store and tried to find a screw with 510 threading, you would leave empty handed.
In the beginning, manufacturers of e-cigarettes used many different styles of connectors.
One of the first e-cig kits Joyetech came out with was called the 510. I don't know why it was called the 510, but I imagine I will someday; I'm just like that.
Out of the field, Joyetech's 510 connector became the front-runner. I could be wrong, but my guess is because Joyetech introduced the eGo with the same internal threading which took the market by storm. The atty in the device was good, people were already using it for direct dripping, so that became the focus of its use, while the battery moved into the background and the cartridge all but disappeared. So when someone says a device has 510 threading, what they are really saying is the device has threading like the battery and atty in a Joyetech 510 kit.
The same is true with the 306, it's not a thread size either. The 306 was a Joyetech cig-a-like kit that had the same connection as their 510 kit, but the atty was shaped differently. It was shorter and missing the outside "jacket," but had the same configuration of a steel mesh bridge over a coil, wick and reservoir cup.
The 306 atty had a lower resistance than the 510 attys of the time, which resulted in it providing a warmer vape. Keep in mind that variable voltage devices weren't commercially available yet, so the only way to change the output (watts) was to change the resistance of the atty. The 306 atty became very popular while the rest of the kit for the most part went by the wayside. So when someone says it's a 306 atty, what they are really saying is it's the type of atty that used to come in a Joyetech 306 cig-a-like kit. You can still buy Joyetech 306 kits today.
Joye 306 electronic cigarette starter kit
There will be a test on Friday.
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