Discussion in 'eGo Type Models' started by itsdan, Sep 17, 2012.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. itsdan

    itsdan Full Member

    What is the difference between these 2 batteries (with the exception of the ego C twist)?

    On a side note, I read somewhere both these batts are 3.3V. I was always under the impression it was 3.7V.

    Thanks in advance for clearing up some confusion!
  2. KuroCz

    KuroCz Senior Member

  3. Robino1

    Robino1 ECF Moderator
    CASAA Liaison Moderator
    Staff Member Senior Moderator Verified Member

    Supporting member
    Actually the eGo C has the same on/off feature. Five clicks in rapid succession will either turn it off or on. So I'm not sure what differences there are. I have the eGo C kit and I bought two twists to go along with them. I haven't even used the ones that came with the kit yet as I really like my twists. I figure I can keep the non vv's around for back up.
  4. Bullcity-puffer

    Bullcity-puffer Unregistered Supplier

    ego c.jpg
    the eGo C is supposed to indicate how much Battery life is left so you don't get caught off guard. This was taken off a supplier site- not sure if the % cut offs are correct- I've seen different ratings different places.
  5. The Ocelot

    The Ocelot Mystagogue φ Verified Member

    Supporting member
    I just got an eGo C "upgrade" battery. It's an odd little creature. I went to a vape store to get a plain 1000mAh to last longer while I'm at home. The upgrade was the only kind they had in stock. It has 2 options - 5 clicks and it turns on in the regular constant voltage mode (3.3v); 5 clicks turns it off. But after it's off, if you hold the button down for a few seconds it will turn yellow; 5 more clicks and it turns on it a "U" (unregulated/variable voltage) mode, where the voltage starts at 4-something when fully charged, then lowers as the battery charge goes down. (You can click it back to the "C" mode at any time.) I'm not sure what this is supposed to accomplish. I've tried it straight off the charger in the "U" mode, which supposedly has a higher voltage at that point, but I honestly couldn't tell the difference. The only thing I've found useful about it is when the battery gets low in the "C" mode, I can switch to the "U" mode to squeak out a little more vaping time. I still don't get the point, especially when the Twist is available). I got the 1000mAh version: Joyetech eGo-C Upgrade Battery
  6. Vapoor eyes er

    Vapoor eyes er ECF Guru

    In the ego-T, the cone and heating coil are all one piece. When the coil burns out, you have to buy the whole assembly. It is a one piece atomizer.
    In the ego-C, the cone and the coil are two separate pieces. You replace just the coil (atomizer).
    Yes the eGo vapes at 3.3 volts. Far better buy is the Kgo- less expensive and vapes at 3.7 volts.
  7. Vapoor eyes er

    Vapoor eyes er ECF Guru

    What basically is happening is you are disabling PWM with the eGo C upgrade. There's also an eGo that runs at 3.2, 3.7 or 4.2 volts:
    650mAh V. V. (Variable Voltage) Batteries with LCD screen for 510/eGO [D-C2 VV-1 Batt] - $14.00 : Healthcabin Electronic Cigarettes - Wholesale and Retail

  8. ericbrets

    ericbrets Full Member

    Hey vapor eyes, I think u might be alittle confused. Ego-c, & Ego-t, are just batteries. As they have NO atomizer, or coil, they.are simply the power source. Your coil/coils, & your atomizers are parts of your "delivery mechanism" which you attach to your battery. I.E.-like a cartomizer, or clearomizer, etc.. Appreciate the well intentioned reply, but I personally remember how confused I was when I got started. Please just be mindful, & give out help, & advice that you are personally familiar, & experienced with. In NO WAY am I trying to "knock" on, or slander you. Actually I REALLY appreciate your selfless response, & attempt to help! Its just theres SOOOO much BAD, & misguided info out there all ready. Which ends up COSTING new "vaper's" time, frustration, & most important $$$$$$!!!!!! I like MANY/MOST "Vapers" out there WASTED ALOT of hard earned cash on inflated, & in many cases unneeded, or even useless products when I was new to vaping. Also in MANY cases, people dish out alota' $$ for a horrible, inferior setup, that ultimatally gives a LASTING, & sometimes FINAL impression. Turning MANY potential vapers away from vaping FOR GOOD!! I almost gave up after my first crappy kit, & I personally know several people who did!!! Again, Im writting this ONLY to try and HELP, not personally "scorn, or scold" anybody. Please dont take offense! & I trully appreciate ANYONE who spends there valuable time to post helpful replys. AND THAT_ IS EXACTLY/ALL I INTEND WITH THIS POST!! :)
  9. Boxster

    Boxster Super Member

    vapor eyes er is correct. Joyetech first came out with the Ego-T. The T means tank system. When the Ego-T atomizer (~$14.00) broke you had to replace the entire cone/atomizer because the atomizer was built in. The Ego-C which means "changeable", you only need to replace the "changeable" atomizer (~$2.00). You can buy A 5 pack of Ego-C atomizers for ~$20.00.
    The confusion is because the Ego-c kits came with the also new Ego-twist batteries that were marked "Ego-c twist" Probably because the batteries voltage was "changeable". An Ego twist battery can be bought separately and will work with either the ego-t, ego-c, or other equipment that has ego threads or a 510 connection.


    Sorry but i dont think Vapoor eyes is confused. I own both the Joyetech ego-c and the Joyetech ego-t . Joyetech says "the ego-c, changeable system. And i dont have the other box in front of me, but T is i believe tank. It is as Vapoor eyes describes. Also, "c" and "T" has nothing to do with battery size, as i have "C" in two different "mah".


    Thanks, im so bad with this computer....the prior post answered it.
  12. The Ocelot

    The Ocelot Mystagogue φ Verified Member

    Supporting member
    I have Joye eGo-c batteries too. I think things get confusing because Joye had the eGo-T "Tank" system and the Joye eGo-C "Changeable/Replaceable Atomizer" system, which has nothing to do with the battery. One would think they'd have called it something else.

    ETA: Oh Ditto Duh... what he said :oops:


    Maybe i should have said, i own both kits. The kits are two different systems and come with batteries that are marked to match the system.
    I think some of the confusion comes when you can purchase a non Joyetech battery thats marked ego-c, and has nothing to do with Joyetech's ego-c system.


    Just came back from Joyetech's site. They say that their getting complaints about the CE4 [ atomimizers, clearomizers ] that are being put in kits with their batteries. Its aways good to go to some of these manufactors websites, they issue warnings about copycats.


    HI itsdan, Joyetech says 3.3v constant voltage. And if you have read this far, you can probably figure out that, that doesn't really mean a difference in a battery. I have a battery thats marked ego-c and is rated 650mah. I also have a battery thats marked ego-t and is rated 650mah. China likes to confuse us.
  16. botakvap

    botakvap Full Member

    ^Thats exactly how i'm feeling now after doing days of stressed up from trying to understand all the terminology i almost ran out an get myself a pack of cig jk lol.

    Does that mean eGo-C and eGo-T batteries are the identical?

  17. Heavyrocker

    Heavyrocker Vaping Master

    Ive had the Ego-C now almost 2 weeks and all can say im having no problems what so ever,i think its the ''APPLE' of ecig systems,I LOVE the little beast,excellent vapour and taste.
  18. Heavyrocker

    Heavyrocker Vaping Master

    Was it a knock off?
  19. Condorman

    Condorman Senior Member

    Just got an eGo-T grand piece of kit bit I thought one of the tanks was knackered as the draw was very tight and hot, turns out if you tighten them a fraction too much it buggers up the draw
  20. fenchurch

    fenchurch Senior Member

    On the second question:

    3.7V is what nearly all unregulated batteries will output (on average). Unregulated power starts off the charger around 4.1-4.2V, levels off near 3.7V for the majority of runtime, then slips slowly down until depleted, 3.2V-ish.

    The original eGo ran a regulated 3.3V to mimic the power/response of the 510 'stick' batteries prevalent at the time.

    On the first:

    I too had this *exact* same question as I was searching out spare batteries for the better half. Here are all of the differences I have found in the Joyetech-branded batteries:

    1. the original "ego"

    - 3.3V regulated (to match the voltage of the early 510 stick batts)
    - white light
    - did NOT have 5-click protection

    2. the ego-T

    - 3.3V regulated
    - white light
    - 5-click on/off

    3. the ego-C *exactly the same as the ego-T other than battery charge indication*

    - 3.3V regulated
    - 100-50% charge: white light, 50-10% light-blue light, less than 10% charge: blue light
    - 5-click on/off

    4. the ego-T2 Upgrade

    - 3.3V regulated and 4.2-3.2V unregulated modes
    - white light = 3.3V regulated
    - orange = unregulated
    - 5-click on/off

    5. the ego-C2 Upgrade

    - 3.3V regulated and 4.2-3.2V unregulated modes
    - blue light = 3.3V regulated
    - orange light = unregulated
    - 5-click on/off
    - ego-C charge indicator will work but ONLY in 3.3V regulated mode, disabled when running unregulated (orange light)

    The twists are in a category all their own, running regulated mode all the time, but you can vary the voltage, with 5-click on/off. The charge indicator should mimic the regular ego-C. The ego-C Twist batts are advertised having better short circuit protection. I am unsure if this extends to the C/T Upgrade batteries or not.

    All of my batteries were purchased either as part of carto kits, or standalone.

    The descriptions of what you ATTACH to your ego-whatever batteries is a whole different level of complication (and the battery specs are bad enuf). :)

    Only used 510 attys, cartomizers and clearos. Never seen or touched a type-A, type-B atomizer, or an ego-T cone atomizer much less the ego-C multi-piece setup.

    This becomes especially important when shopping for spare/replacement batteries. Several vendors have ego-T2 Upgrade and ego-C2 Upgrade batteries for sale side by side, for several dollars difference in price. For me it came down to whether the charge indicator was worth an extra $3-4 on top of the ego-T2 battery at $13.

    All of these battery variations are available in the popular sizes: 650, 900, and 1000mAh. More capacity=longer barrel, nothing else is changed.

    Apologies if this bumped a too-old thread.
: goodejuice, evod
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page