Help ! Itaste clk battery

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angie124

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Just fired my clk battery and it went red hot in my hand so hot I had to put in on the table. It then started hissing smoke so got a towel and threw it out the back door. I've had it around 9 months and have two others I use all the time
Any idea what's happened ? Worried to use my others now incase they explode.
 
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Eskie

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Sounds like a short and the battery vented. Dramatically. Glad you're OK, and tossing it out was a good move, unless you hit a small animal (still OK as you didn't set your house on fire). Why did it fail? That's always a tough one. What kind of clearo/tank were you using, and was it damaged?
 

zoiDman

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Just fired my clk battery and it went red hot in my hand so hot I had to put in on the table. It then started hissing smoke so got a towel and threw it out the back door. I've had it around 9 months and have two others I use all the time
Any idea what's happened ? Worried to use my others now incase they explode.

I know what Happened. The Battery in you CLK Vented.

Now why did it Vent? That is Harder to say.

If the Battery took a Bad Fall, it could have caused there to be Internal Damage to the Battery Cell. Or if it was Charged using Charger that put out too many Volts. That could cause Problems.

But the Most Likely cause is that there was a Short in your Atomizer. Or that you have used an Atomizer that had Too Low Ohms.

If this was your Battery...

Innokin iTaste CLK Battery

... the Specs say you shouldn't use anything that has Lower than 1.2 Ohms.

Specifications:


  • Battery Dimension: 4"L x 5/8"W
  • Variable Voltage : The rotational wheel adjusts voltage in the following increments: 3.5, 3.8, 4.0, 4.3, 4.5, 4.8, 5.0
  • Standby current: 50uA max
  • Maximum output current: 3.0A
  • Maximum output wattage: 9.5W
  • Clearomizer Resistance: 1.2 ohm (minimum), recommendation 2.1Ohm Dual Coil
  • Battery: Built-in 800 mAh polymer Li-Ion rechargeable battery
  • Charging : 420mA-4.2V max 350 mA
  • Short Circuit Protection : 0.6 +/-0.2 ohm
What Ohms have you used with that CLK Battery?

Batteries like what we use in e-Cigarettes do Not Normally Vent if they are Charged with a Proper Charger, haven't sustained some kind of Damage, and or are used with an Atomizer Resistance (Ohms) that they can Handle. Even when the Battery gets Old, the Normally just stop being able to Hold a Charge. And Die a Slow, Quiet Death.

BTW - You did the Right thing by throwing it out the Back Door.
 

zoiDman

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Its the BVc 1.8 coils i run at 4.5. I charge with plug chargers I purchased from my vape shop that charge slowly. Only thing I can think of is the coil was really struggling and needed to be changed.

The Ohms and Charger are Good. Sound like you did Everything Right.

It could be just that Rare Occasion when the Coil Shorts or the Battery Fails internally. It is Rare for a Battery to Vent like what happened to yours. But it can happen.
 
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David Wolf

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Just fired my clk battery and it went red hot in my hand so hot I had to put in on the table. It then started hissing smoke so got a towel and threw it out the back door. I've had it around 9 months and have two others I use all the time
Any idea what's happened ? Worried to use my others now incase they explode.
While we can't diagnose what happened to your device without someone inspecting it physically who knows all about the device (including electronics), we might be able to rule in or out some things as a possible cause or a contributing cause. A few questions that come to mind:
1. What is the output rating of the USB wall charger you use for it in mA (500 mA, etc)? The manual for the itaste CLK 1280 and the specs on the itaste site gives a charger rating of 5V/500 mA, which differs from the myvaporstore specs Zoidman provided above: http://www.innokin.com/manuals/itaste-clk1280-user-manual.pdf
2. How long had it been when you last charged it before the battery vented?
3. Have you ever dropped or otherwise damaged it, if so, how long ago was that?
4. Did you notice the red light on, or blinking when you fired it and it started venting?
5. Do you have a way of checking the resistance of the atomizer that was on it? A coil resistance tester, ohmmeter, or a regulated mod that shows the resistance WITHOUT you having to push the fire button? The device is supposed to protect against atomizer shorts, so this would be very interesting to know. Don't try firing that atomizer though, only check the resistance if you can do so safely without pressing a mod firing button.
6. The manual specs say minimum resistance 1.2 ohms, recommended 2.5 ohms (what? haha). Your nautilus coil at 1.8 should have been fine. Have you ever run a lower resistance coil than 1.2? (It likely would not fire one lower by design).
7. Have you ever noticed the firing button sticking?
8. Did you verify that the device is authentic? If you still have the box, you can do so here: Verify Device - Innokin. I would also suggest you let them know what happened on the Support tab.
I know its a lot of questions, but we could all learn more here! By the way, I found someone who had a similar problem in the forum:
HUGE HUGE INNOKIN CLK 1280 problem!!! NEED HELP/ADVICE
 
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angie124

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Will try my best to answer the questions

1. On the charger plug it says input 100-240v 50/60Hz. 0.15A
Output 5.0v. 500mA

2. I had just taken the battery off the charger to use straight away

3. I must admit I have dropped it a few times (who hasn't lol). Only indoors though never on concrete or anything similar

4. No red light. Just struggling as needed to change coil but light was green

5. I can find out the resistance but will have to get back to you on that

6. Only ever run the nautilus bvc 1.8 coil with this battery

7. This particular battery button never sticks. But my other click battery in a different colour does occasionally stick on.
 
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Eskie

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Ok. Just fished the old coil out of the bin put it back in my nautilus and onto my pico.
It was reading 1.95
Was that the cause ?

No, that's about what those coils would read out at. Maybe a little higher than average range, but not what I would point my finger at. If it read atomizer short that would be a possible explanation (although protections should have kicked in if built into that mod).

2. I had just taken the battery off the charger to use straight away

Was the battery hot when you took it of the charger. Batteries can get warm during charging, and if the battery is already at the upper end of its temp rating, using it right after charging might overheat it.
 
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zoiDman

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Ok. Just fished the old coil out of the bin put it back in my nautilus and onto my pico.
It was reading 1.95
Was that the cause ?

I'd say No Also. A Little Variation in the Ohms is Normal.

After Reading everything you posted, I would say that it was just a Fluke that you Battery Vented.

Like I said, it is Unusual for a Battery to do this. But it can happen on Rare Occasions.
 
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zoiDman

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Can anyone recommend a lightweight battery to use with a nautilus. Only every used clks. I have a pico that I use with my cleito but it's a lot heavier than the clk which is great for vaping out and about.

About the Smallest/Lighted Mod that I have is a iStick 40w.

But that might be Too Big as compared to what you had.
 

David Wolf

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Will try my best to answer the questions

1. On the charger plug it says input 100-240v 50/60Hz. 0.15A
Output 5.0v. 500mA

2. I had just taken the battery off the charger to use straight away

3. I must admit I have dropped it a few times (who hasn't lol). Only indoors though never on concrete or anything similar

4. No red light. Just struggling as needed to change coil but light was green

5. I can find out the resistance but will have to get back to you on that

6. Only ever run the nautilus bvc 1.8 coil with this battery

7. This particular battery button never sticks. But my other click battery in a different colour does occasionally stick on.
Really helpful answers! Yes, I've dropped my isticks many times, haha. So heres what we know now:
1. You've ruled out an atomizer short since you checked the resistance and its good, not shorted (and like I said, the mod should have protected against that and just shut off anyway).
2. A battery at full charge is at its highest potential for failure, if its going to fail. That's why manufacturers ship at 50% charge per one study I've read.
3. You're charger specs are per the manufacturers requirements. And if the charger had a failure and overcharged your battery, I would expect it your mod/battery to have failed during charging, not after you remove it to use it. So I don't think the charger is the problem.

So that leaves two possibilities, a battery internal failure, or a short in the itaste 1280 device itself (electronics or other such as loose/bare wire, etc) that caused the battery to discharge at a high current, overheat and vent. A battery internal fault could be caused by a manufacturing defect, or damage by dropping. The only way to know for sure the cause is to take the device apart and inspect it for shorts, visually and with an ohmmeter at the battery connections to the circuitry, (with the battery disconnected), check the fire button for a short, etc.

One things for sure, this wasn't user caused failure, you did nothing wrong at all. Even if dropping the mod a short distance caused some internal damage to the thin layers inside and contributed to failure, I consider this a design defect since battery designs have been improved to protect against things such as dropping and external damage. And if you've charged and used your device several times with no issues since dropping, I don't believe that is a likely contributing factor.

Are your other mods safe to vape? I can't answer that, but i wouldn't be afraid to vape them, I have researched and not found but one other failure similar to yours. I will say don't leave them on the charger any longer than needed, and never charge them overnight. Thats the rule I use with my isticks mods - and I have seen reports of failures of the istick 50W mods (I have the 30 and 40 TC, and they have both been great for me). I charge mine on a porcelain sink counter in case something goes wrong, and only until they are charged then unhook them from the charger.

Hey, thanks for taking the time to give more information, you've contributed a lot to the discussions here on vaping safety. Bottom line is be prepared and know that your device and mod can fail, even though you do everything right, though its rare. You did all the right things when it vented! :)
 
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David Wolf

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Thank you for all your help David. Think I will be buying an istick for my nautilus.
Must admit I do charge overnight but not anymore lol
Haha that's my number 1 Safety tip - Never charge overnight, and charge in a safe place, and only long enough to charge it. Though many devices are supposed to be designed to stop the charging once the battery is charged, I'm an engineer, and i don't trust all engineers, haha. :)
 

David Wolf

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Just googled it. They do a 30w istick. Looks good. Thank you for all your help
Just so you know, I saw one report of an istick 30W burnt/vented on a granite counter top during charging, using the manufacturers charger. But that's out of many many thousands. I really don't think any mod is immune from rare failures due to defects, etc. I am considering the istick Pico for my next mod, small, with batteries you can charge either in the mod or remove and charge in a good charger.
 
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