I have a vanilla copper mod which I have owned for 7 months. Use it with a tugboat rda. Has been working great. Over the last several weeks it has started to fire in consistently. I have to clean it every day and even after that it only fires consistently for a few hours. Every two days I noticed increasing buildup under the firing pin. I've been cleaning it with a wire brush. I have also been soaking everything in vodka before polishing. I cleaned it this morning. It was good for about maybe one hour and now its not firing again. Also noticed that the quality has decreased even after cleaning, when it does work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I cleaned it this morning. Is good for about maybe 1 hour and now it's not firing again any help would be greatly appreciated.
Help please
- Thread starter fizhak
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Never used a vanilla copper mod before but i have used alot of mechs. Ive had firing troubles with my maraxus, i ended up adjusting the plastic "o-ring"(its more of a spacer) and it worked alot better. What was happening was that the firing pin wasnt making a full connection with the battery resulting in a misfire. When i adjusted the spacer to give the firing pin a bit more throw, it gave the pin more room to make the connection.
It might be more beneficial to tighten the pin so that its less likely for it to contact the battery accidentally.
I started to have this problem om my Smokless Owl Mod and I was all set to take it apart when
I checked out my rba and 2 of them turned out to have loose Grub screws holding the wire.
I titened the screws down onto my wire and now wow it works really good.
The screws loosen up from time to time.
I checked out my rba and 2 of them turned out to have loose Grub screws holding the wire.
I titened the screws down onto my wire and now wow it works really good.
The screws loosen up from time to time.
I also get a black coating on the push button within a fee hours of cleaning it. I've tried tightening and loosening eveything and it lasts a few hours and then I have problems with it.
The trucker. I've tried that. That was actually the first thing I did. I've had a problem with the rda before. I cleaned out the screws, as that was my problem last time and made sure everything was tight. I tried another rda that I own, which is a clone. It worked for a day, and then I had the same problem which is why I think it's the mod.
Im just brainstorming here but is it possible that your mod is misfiring and the battery is heating up just enough to melt some of that black o-ring and thats why its gettinf black gunk on it? I know when my maraxus misfired i got severe hot button and stopped using it for a long time because of this. It would have been hot enough to break down some plastics and rubbers (especially soft ones)
Make sure there is no way for the battery to connect without you pushing the firing pin. I would imagine that means making sure your pin is always tight the way it should be. If it is possible to unscrew the o-ring maybe 1.5 full turns so that you have a longer throw on the button i would do that as well.
yes if you have tried other atomizers/drippers and it does the same thing then probably you have isolated the problem to the mod itself.
as a last resort if it is a totally mech mod try turning the battery around and putting it in upside down---sometimes the connections on mech mods make a better contact
when pressing against the big ground spot as opposed to the smaller positive end.
BUT......if the mod was working before then there must me something mis adjusted in the switch and maybe the 510 is not completely touching the various atomizers.
It must be the switch making contact almost gotta be.
I would keep asking questions and searching for the solution on the internet-----somebody must have had this same problem----and they must have fixed it.
When you do find the solution Please share it with us as we all have hot buttons and mis fires.
as a last resort if it is a totally mech mod try turning the battery around and putting it in upside down---sometimes the connections on mech mods make a better contact
when pressing against the big ground spot as opposed to the smaller positive end.
BUT......if the mod was working before then there must me something mis adjusted in the switch and maybe the 510 is not completely touching the various atomizers.
It must be the switch making contact almost gotta be.
I would keep asking questions and searching for the solution on the internet-----somebody must have had this same problem----and they must have fixed it.
When you do find the solution Please share it with us as we all have hot buttons and mis fires.
small black marks on the battery and the switch connection means it is arching a little I would think.
Try a single coil in the atomizer and see if that affects it any.
Try a single coil in the atomizer and see if that affects it any.
Yes I woud take that switch apart; it is the 1 main moving part; that's where the wear and tear is going to happen
It sounds as though the switch is wearing out if the mod worked good for so long.----just sayin.......
Is it spring loaded or magnetic? Sometimes on spring loaded mechs replacing the spring is all you need. Same applies for the top cap.
HappyDave posted this on another place here.--I don't know if it would help you or not just a shot in the dark------------------->
So I got a vision blade because I liked how it looked. And the darn thing would fire about half the time (common problem)
so I went over the whole thing with a DVOM and micrometer I found that it does in fact fire every single time. But the 510 threads are really deep and the center pin is not all that secure so it gets pushed down. I was about to file it round, then I figured I might as well try to file it down before I tossed it out. I took about .60 mm off the top of the 510 threads now I have a good and solid connection at the mod to RDA and it vapes fantastic now.
So I got a vision blade because I liked how it looked. And the darn thing would fire about half the time (common problem)
so I went over the whole thing with a DVOM and micrometer I found that it does in fact fire every single time. But the 510 threads are really deep and the center pin is not all that secure so it gets pushed down. I was about to file it round, then I figured I might as well try to file it down before I tossed it out. I took about .60 mm off the top of the 510 threads now I have a good and solid connection at the mod to RDA and it vapes fantastic now.
Thank you for all the great comments. I have not used noalox, but I think I should, now that I know about it. I am still not sure why it is degrading so quickly. I just did a thorough clean, let it dry and it worked great for about 1 hour. Then I could fell the quality of every hit degrade. I am going to try the noalix and see how that works. I broke down and bought a new mod. Sad though, I really liked that one.
Still going to mess around with it though. If I figure anything out I will post. Thank you again.
It's the switch. I had a similar issue once. The pin has a slight side to side wobble to it and when you press it, it doesn't always stay straight and square? It leans slightly to one side ore the other while it is moving in? I'm not familiar with that particular mod, but I'd bet this is your problem. If the switch doesn't sit perfectly flush with the battery, you will get tiny lil micro arcs. You can't see them and they won't cause any visible damage to the mod or battery, but they are there. They will make the button get warm if you chain vape. They also create a tiny lil electromagnetic field. The black gunk is small airborne bits of something ferrous that are drawn to that field. They get in there and bring dust with them and muck things up even worse. See if you can find a replacement switch kit for it, or at least a spring and the rubber grommet. If you can straighten up the path that the switch travels and make it hit the battery square again it should solve your problem.
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