maximum output current

[mattmc92]

Input amps drawn from the battery and output amps delivered to the atomizer are not the same thing. The only value that's (necessarily) the same on both input & output sides of the circuit board is watts. Other values like amps or volts might be the same in some cases but that would just be by coincidence, not by necessity. Max output amps is kind of a meaningless figure. The question isn't "why doesn't everybody list it" but, rather, "why does anyone?"

For example: a device is set to 64 watts, delivered to a .25Ω coil with a battery charge of 3.5 volts. To reach those 64 watts, at a charge state of 3.5 volts, the device pulls 18.2 amps from the battery. Over on the output side, however, it's a different story. To feed 64 watts through a .25 coil, it delivers 4.0 volts, and with 4 volts and a quarter of an ohm, that works out to an applied current of 16 amps. But we don't really care about the applied current. For purposes of battery safety, the amps we need to look at are the 18.2 that are coming out the battery, not the 16 that are going into the atomizer.

Input amps drawn from the battery and output amps delivered to the atomizer are not the same thing. The only value that's (necessarily) the same on both input & output sides of the circuit board is watts. Other values like amps or volts might be the same in some cases but that would just be by coincidence, not by necessity. Max output amps is kind of a meaningless figure. The question isn't "why doesn't everybody list it" but, rather, "why does anyone?"

For example: a device is set to 64 watts, delivered to a .25Ω coil with a battery charge of 3.5 volts. To reach those 64 watts, at a charge state of 3.5 volts, the device pulls 18.2 amps from the battery. Over on the output side, however, it's a different story. To feed 64 watts through a .25 coil, it delivers 4.0 volts, and with 4 volts and a quarter of an ohm, that works out to an applied current of 16 amps. With a different coil at the same watts, you'll get a different value. That same 64 watts delivered to a .5Ω coil instead requires 5.65 volts and runs at a whopping 32 amps! But we don't really care about the applied current. For purposes of battery safety, the amps we need to look at are the 18.2 that are coming out the battery, not the 16 or 32 that are going into the atomizer. The only thing max output amps is good for is so that you know you'll probably need a lower-ohm coil than .5 if you want to pour 64 watts into it, since most devices won't actually output 32 amps like in this example.

I thought I was talking about the battery output? The 3.5V in my example was a low charge battery
I wasn't talking about 5V 50W 10amp atomizer output, I was talking about 3.5v/80w to work out amp from battery? I'm confused again lol.

 

[Cheallaigh]

just get yourself a regulated mod... problem solved.

 

[mattmc92]

just reread bwh, i got it now
sorry for being so annoying !

 

[bwh79]

I thought I was talking about the battery output? The 3.5V in my example was a low charge battery
I wasn't talking about 5V 50W 10amp atomizer output, I was talking about 3.5v/80w to work out amp from battery? I'm confused again lol.

Once again:

Output current = amps delivered to the atomizer
Input current = amps drawn from the battery

You keep asking about "output current" but then talking about battery stuff. THESE ARE NOT THE SAME THING! A device's max input current means it will not draw more than "this much" from the batteries; this determines when it will stop working and/or reduce the max allowable wattage setting for safety reasons as the battery charge runs low. A device's max output current means it will not deliver more than "this much" to the atomizer; this is irrelevant to battery safety and doesn't really convey much useful information at all.

just get yourself a regulated mod... problem solved.

Err, he already has a regulated mod. If he were using a mechanical, this would all be much easier. There would be no distinction between "input" and "output" amps because they would be the same thing; without a circuit board to regulate the power, what comes out of the battery and what goes into the atomizer are exactly the same.

 

[mattmc92]

Once again:

Output current = amps delivered to the atomizer
Input current = amps drawn from the battery

You keep asking about "output current" but then talking about battery stuff. THESE ARE NOT THE SAME THING! A device's max input current means it will not draw more than "this much" from the batteries; this determines when it will stop working and/or reduce the max allowable wattage setting for safety reasons as the battery charge runs low. A device's max output current means it will not deliver more than "this much" to the atomizer; this is irrelevant to battery safety and doesn't really convey much useful information at all.

Err, he already has a regulated mod. If he were using a mechanical, this would all be much easier. There would be no distinction between "input" and "output" amps because they would be the same thing; without a circuit board to regulate the power, what comes out of the battery and what goes into the atomizer are exactly the same.

yeah, got it
thanks for being patient !

 

[Cheallaigh]

I understand he does, but matt here, is getting too caught up in the technical end. basically matt, with a regulated mod, unless the chipset is defective or the batteries are damaged... you do NOT need to worry. the time to worry is if you damage it, have you dropped it hard? have you soaked it? relax, or it will drive you to smoke out of fear and it's the last thing you want. I completely understand your worries, my hubby and I did a lot of looking into things ourselves before we took the plunge, my main fear was the damned things blowing up. with the mods we have, they have safety features... like you can't go over a 10second draw, or if the battery is too dead it wont work etc. they've taken out the Darwin awards for the average user.

 

[kbeam418]

My car doesn't sit in my mouth, if it did I'd be learning everything there is to know. I like to be safe rather than trust onboard circuitry to keep me safe. I was reading about mvp pro 3 which has a max output of 17.5amps and 60watts. Therefore at 60w with your battery at 3.2V when it's running low, the amp output would be 18.75.
Ideally it won't fire because it's not capable, but what if something onboard goes wrong and it doesn't know not to fire?
I'll also reiterate, I only use internal battery mods. I don't like holding high powered capacitors in my hand, but that's my preference, I'll do what feels safe to me based on knowledge, or lack there of. There are always new mods coming out, and I've bought 4 in the 3 weeks since I have started. Each of those will last 250-300 charges. I'm definitely sure I'll want to buy more mods before the 1000-1200 charges (1 a day for 3 years total) happens and the mods die. I'll eventually learn more about battery safety but i'm happy with my current situation. Saving $25 a day and feeling healthier and found myself a fun hobby

Innokin makes THE safest devices in the vaping market, they are extremely concerned about safety. There's always a potential for something to fail look at cell phones; Apple had issues with iPhone 6, and now Samsung's phones are catching on fire. 18650 batteries are batteries . Most internal batteries use them btw. Innokin uses lipo packs due to design limitations. I'm not trying to sound like an just trying to tell you not to worry.

 

[kbeam418]

they are safe for people who know what they are doing but not for many of the vapers I have met. the local vape shop tells me that new FDA regulations prohibit them from rebuilding coils for their customers which was tragic for many of their customers who use sub ohm RDAs but do not know how to build coils. for those kids mechs would not be safe. computers do develop "glitches" sometimes. I have 4 regulated mods. one stop working after a month and a second one can't hold setting and sometimes jumps to a higher power level. regulated mods have blown up just like mech.

Yep that's why I don't like mechs too many idiots that don't know how to use them. Not saying we should ban them but a regulated mod isn't going to blow up unless they're using trustfires. I only trust Evolv, Yihi and Joyetech boards because they do tend to test they're boards for failures.

 

[daviedog]

I like mechs, & could care less what the 'idiots' are using..

 

[Completely Average]

you can only test voltage and not current that way. the only way to know current capacity is from the manufacturer rating.and sometimes thats not reliable. cheap re wraps are often over rated by the sellers.

Oh trust me, you could test current by creating a circuit with your tongue.

But considering that .1A-.2A is lethal and will kill you, I wouldn't advise doing it with a 20A battery. If you did though, the medical examiner would know the battery was good.

 

[mattmc92]

I understand he does, but matt here, is getting too caught up in the technical end. basically matt, with a regulated mod, unless the chipset is defective or the batteries are damaged... you do NOT need to worry. the time to worry is if you damage it, have you dropped it hard? have you soaked it? relax, or it will drive you to smoke out of fear and it's the last thing you want. I completely understand your worries, my hubby and I did a lot of looking into things ourselves before we took the plunge, my main fear was the damned things blowing up. with the mods we have, they have safety features... like you can't go over a 10second draw, or if the battery is too dead it wont work etc. they've taken out the Darwin awards for the average user.

oh, i get they're completely safe if everything is working right for sure. the mod i have is definitely for beginners. my mind always goes to the what if scenario. just wanted everything in my head just incase something does go wrong. i'd rather trust my brain than my mod.

once again, thanks everyone for being so patient explaining. it was getting frustrating to learn, and i can only imagine how frustrating it was trying to teach me. cheers

 

[mauricem00]

Oh trust me, you could test current by creating a circuit with your tongue.

But considering that .1A-.2A is lethal and will kill you, I wouldn't advise doing it with a 20A battery. If you did though, the medical examiner would know the battery was good.

the human body has too high of a resistance to allow that kind of current flow at the 4 volts mod batteries put out. you may see people using 12 volt car batteries to shock people in the movies but thats hollywood and hollywood is not the real world.you would need less than a 0.2 ohm load to pull 20 amps out of a 18650 battery.people who run 0.2 ohm coils in RDAs that don't even know how to build coils or have any understanding of ohms law scare me. I have 3 VW mods, 2TC mods and several mechanical mods. I build my own coils and make my own juice but I follow the same safety procedures with my regulated mods that I do with my mechanical mods and do not run coil resistance below 1 ohm. a VW mod can put out 8 volts or more thats 64 watts with a 1.0 ohm coil. I usually vape at 10-12 watts

 

[Cheallaigh]

this is your friend matt

Steam Engine main page

 

[mattmc92]

this is your friend matt

Steam Engine main page

Thanks cheallaigh, got it all in my head now though, so everything is good

 

[Baditude]

Innokin makes THE safest devices in the vaping market, they are extremely concerned about safety.

No love for the Provari and the folks at Provape?

 

[kbeam418]

No love for the Provari and the folks at Provape?

Provari makes great devices but they're the Porsche of vaping. Expensive and really only for the MTL and low wattage crowd.

 

[Completely Average]

the human body has too high of a resistance to allow that kind of current flow at the 4 volts mod batteries put out.

Oh really?

Then put a 9V battery on your tongue. That's 9v at 8milliamps, and I'll bet you can feel it, can't you?

.2A at 1V is lethal. If you think it's not then you're dangerous.

And for the record, do you have any idea what the electrical conductivity of saliva is?

 

[mauricem00]

Oh really?

Then put a 9V battery on your tongue. That's 9v at 8milliamps, and I'll bet you can feel it, can't you?

.2A at 1V is lethal. If you think it's not then you're dangerous.

And for the record, do you have any idea what the electrical conductivity of saliva is?

you clearly have no training in electronics. I studied electrical engineering at the university in the 70's the resistance of the human body changes with time and circumstance. skin resistance is one of the factors lie detectors measure. I just measured the resistance of my tongue and came up with 50K ohm thats 180 micro amps from a nine volt battery. you do feel it . thats how you know if the battery is good.and it only take 1 milliamp thru the heart to stop it. but that requires a direct path.