Mech vs Varible devices

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MikeyConti

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OK, then YOU do the research, and the the user manage their OWN risk.. JUST DON'T REQUIRE IT.. I prefer NOT to have to pay for this research, via the cost of vaping. The Cost of research and regulation is WHY I vape instead of smoke. I don't need research to tell me that stupid people do stupid things that can hurt them.
I also KNOW that approx 75% of the cost of a car, is from making it safe.... Yet I'm still damaging the environment, even with emissions reduced by OVER 90%. And people still get hurt crashing into things. I know all the taxes and regulations on cigarettes didn't do anything to make smoking safe. Just more expensive.

Don't make me look for some other way to get a little enjoyment from life.
Ii actually agree with you, I think you took my post the wrong way or either I didnt word it right lol
 

93gc40

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Ii actually agree with you, I think you took my post the wrong way or either I didnt word it right lol

It's cool... I tend to freak-out, these days, at calls for research and studies and education. In a tin-foil hat kind of way.

People may need to STUDY to learn.... BUT only, Institutions and Governments do Research or Studies. We all pay for that. Learning is free and requires NO education. Well not free, it does take time and effort and yes, lots of research. I just don't call it that when I'm doing it......
 

MikeyConti

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It's cool... I tend to freak-out, these days, at calls for research and studies and education. In a tin-foil hat kind of way.

People may need to STUDY to learn.... BUT only, Institutions and Governments do Research or Studies. We all pay for that. Learning is free and requires NO education. Well not free, it does take time and effort and yes, lots of research. I just don't call it that when I'm doing it......
Thats what I meant by Research(Us learning).. No, I would not want the Government or any institution doing that for us!!
 

93gc40

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Thats what I meant by Research(Us learning).. No, I would not want the Government or any institution doing that for us!!

Yeah but with big brother reading everything that gets posted electronically. We do need to be careful, on all the calls for study and research and education. We just need to always be clear that, It is OUR responsibility to be safe when vaping....... Personally, I have never seen a Mod/battery failures that did NOT, at the root have HUMAN(operator) Error as the cause.
 

Stinkytofus

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I own both so this isn't bashing one or the other and I enjoy using both but have started to slide more to the variable side.

With the recent posts on mechs going "south" and folks not taking the time to learn proper building and battery safety is it time for manufactures to start phasing them out? I read a thread this morning from a member that wanted to move to a "cheap mech" and cringed. The majority of the accidents we see are normally mechs (and the isticks ;) )

Wouldn't moving to a regulated market be safer?

I won't ever stop using my mechs but I was scratching my head wondering with all the new technology and power on the regulated side what is the point. I'm interested in hearing others thoughts.
regulated safer for sure, dont have to deal with possible shorts

mechs looks nicer for sure but regulated is more simplified, pick up and vape till battery low and switch out batteries
 

edyle

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regulated safer for sure, dont have to deal with possible shorts

mechs looks nicer for sure but regulated is more simplified, pick up and vape till battery low and switch out batteries

I use regulated mech.:p

I am tootlepuffer! Hear me ............... toot!
 

Bad Ninja

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Thrasher

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About the kick- after a few years and much competition it is easy to forget when a 12w original was $40 +. And they flew off the shelves.

They make a 30+ w kick it will stay sold out, just like the 1 and 2 do/did.

Heat shouldnt be to much concern, the chips now arent much bigger then the originals.
 

sgobots

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Regulated devices are safer, but not idiot-proof. With higher wattage devices becoming more and more common, and batteries with seriously overstated specs abounding in the market, there are considerable risks. A device has no way of knowing what battery is driving it so it can't protect against the wrong battery being pushed beyond its limits. A single 20 amp battery can't safely be used for more than 60w (120 for two batteries), and a 30 amp one can handle about 85w, and how many are using actual 30 amp-capable batteries? So, for example, using all 75w of the ipv d2 with most of our regular batteries could lead to disaster. I don't know how the Snow Wolf's "pulsing above 150w" actually works, and if it's safe, but there's definite risk with 20 amp batteries. Not sure how the ipv 3 li does its 200w, but if there's no special mechanism in place it'll push even 30 amp batteries beyond their limit at its highest setting.

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That's not how batteries behave in a regulated device. A lot of this is just plain wrong. With a regulated device, the chipset does the heavy lifting for you.

Using your math, temperature control devices would be blowing off the hands of everyone who uses one. According to the spec sheet for the yihi sx350j, the typical resitance for TC is .065 ohm. That would draw close to 57 amps.
 

KenD

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That's not how batteries behave in a regulated device. A lot of this is just plain wrong. With a regulated device, the chipset does the heavy lifting for you.

Using your math, temperature control devices would be blowing off the hands of everyone who uses one. According to the spec sheet for the yihi sx350j, the typical resitance for TC is .065 ohm. That would draw close to 57 amps.
Resistance doesn't matter with regulated mods, wattage and battery voltage (lower charge = higher amp drain) determine the amp draw. The calculation is:

Watts / battery charge = amp draw

So, for example: 60w / 4v = 15 amps, 60w / 3v = 20 amps. You also need to account the efficiency of the mod. 90% is a good number to use. So, 20 / .9 = 22 amps. Most mods won't drain the batteries as low as 3v, but I prefer to be safe.

As for the chipset doing the heavy lifting, watts are watts. Power needs to come from somewhere.

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Nikea Tiber

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That's not how batteries behave in a regulated device. A lot of this is just plain wrong. With a regulated device, the chipset does the heavy lifting for you.

Using your math, temperature control devices would be blowing off the hands of everyone who uses one. According to the spec sheet for the yihi sx350j, the typical resitance for TC is .065 ohm. That would draw close to 57 amps.

You are missing the key variable: voltage.
Voltage is what you are overlooking, as cell voltage is not constant.
The issue is when a dc-dc converter (which is what you think of as a "chipset doing the heavy lifting") has to bump the 3.5 volts your cell has left (and remember that a cells max continuous safe discharge amp limit goes down as the voltage goes down) up in voltage, drawing amperage past what the batteries are able to handle.
Batteries matter. Non high drain 18650s in a 100+ watt device is a bad idea. I'd go as far as saying that any 18650 with an actual CDR of less than 20 amps shouldn't be used in an apv.
A regulated device can't detect the CDR of the batteries powering it. Again, batteries absolutely matter.
 
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niczgreat

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Safer?
Interesting thing.

I've never seen a mechanical mod automatically fire.

Pocket fire, or fire when standing unlocked is user error and not automatic.

I have, however had a regulated device automatically start firing the atty.
There are several accounts here on ECF.
Safer? Depends on what your definition of "safe" is.
Actually I had a mechanical mod and the pin fell down shorting it and it continued to fire until the Bat ran out.
I threw it on the ground.
 

vapomike

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I use both mech and regulated. Personally I like the hybrid styled mechs. They are so much simpler to use just slap the battery in and go. No worrying about the center pin adjustment. Now having said that I only drip on my mechs and ALWAYS make sure the pin on the RDA is protruding. I also never build below .25 on my mech and use 20 amp batteries. I check the resistance of my RDA's before throwing one on a mech every time.

A mech is a different experience and something I enjoy greatly. Most of the time when I vape with my mech it's a build and vape. I gut the RDA and start with a fresh wire and wick. It's very satisfying to me to say the least. Mechs when used properly are just as safe as the regulated devices on the market. Yeah you have to pay more attention to your ohms and build. You can't just stick a high amp battery in it and start vaping. You have to go a step farther and make sure your connections are good and that you aren't going to low on the ohms with your builds.

The problem is we have idiots, yes idiots. I just talked to a guy that should have known better that was running a .07 build on a 18650 mech. That is 60 amps that is being pulled from the battery at full charge. That is 3x what most batteries are rated for CDR. He said it was okay because his batteries were safe to pulse 60a. Seriously there is really no way to know that for sure. There is no official way to test pulse ratings. There are a lot of variables that also effect your batteries ability to handle bursts over the CDR. People exceeding limits and using improper equipment such as tanks with their mechs/hybrids is the problem. Blaming the batteries or the mechs out there is just giving people an excuse to keep on idioting. People need to understand what they are using before they just start slapping things together and vaping on it.

Can we just ban idiots?
 

TheWestPole

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A kick is just where you make the chip in a form factor that it will fit in the standard sized tube like a battery.

Once regulated mods came out, (that's where the chip is just made in the regular rectangular format) the chip was integrated into a mod.

I think there was an evolve kick2 that might have gone higher than 15 watts ?? but that was the last kick I saw before regulated mods started flooding the market.

I've got a 30 watt and a 50 watt vamo chip; they aren't very big; same size as the other vamo boards.
About the kick- after a few years and much competition it is easy to forget when a 12w original was $40 +. And they flew off the shelves.

They make a 30+ w kick it will stay sold out, just like the 1 and 2 do/did.

Heat shouldnt be to much concern, the chips now arent much bigger then the originals.

Okay, it's not a kick per se but in the ball park and 30W. I've read comments by several Wismec users who swear by them. Available at Heavenly, DiscountVapers, and a few other places. Check on the minimum resistance rating before you consider it.

Screenshot 2015-10-21 at 1.58.32 AM.png


http://www.heavengifts.com/WISMEC-OLED-Screen-VW-MOD-Control-Head.html
 
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Bad Ninja

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