RDA for a Kanger Subox Mini

[JT!]

Noob here. Love the Kanger subtank, but not that great on the fluid staying out of my pockets. Solved that problem by using max VG but now, I can't chain vape or take really big hits without dry and burnt hits.

Seems to me and rda is the way forward for pocketing this thing with no worries of leaking, big clouds and no dry hits.... right? I'll stick to using my current setup at home however for convenience.

First of all I know there's a lot of issues with compatibility with the subox mini so I'd like something that is known to fit together, and something that's not bigger that the subtank mini so it doesn't look stupid on the subox.

Also, has to be black... or red I guess. Nothing silver.

Any suggestions? Don't really want to spend too much over $40, especially since I'll need to get some cotton and wire with that.

Thanks you helpful cloudy people!

Additional: Looking for big clouds, don't care about flavor, but nothing major enough to rip through 18650 battery too quickly. Big air holes.

 

[Kwtony]

Im just going to leave this here

NEW Kanger Subtank Vertical OCC Rebuild "How To" Click here | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[sanguinesolitude]

you should work on your wicking. Covering the holes well with cotton keeps my pockets dry with 70/30 vg/pg juice. And it wicks well too.

basically what i do is this. coil as normal and cut wick thick enough so you can just barely pull it through. With the "ears" sticking straight out to each side, cut the wick about a millimeter past even with the build deck and slightly fluff. gently tuck down the ears so they are touching the deck and slide the chimney down trapping them but not pinching them between the deck and chimney.. Use a little screwdriver to make sure the ears are going straight down and fully covering the juice holes. Poke gently through the juice holes to ensure there is a little space, but they are still covered. Juice up the wick, screw on chimney top, and reassemble subtank. Cover the airholes and take a few short pulls without pressing the fire button. look to see that air bubbles rise from the juice holes.
let sit for like 5 minutes to fully absorb.
vape away

for some reason when bunny earing the wicks straight up and poking them down to cover the holes, i always get poor wicking. With the method i used above, it has worked great, and really no leaks. I left my subtank on its side for like 3 days without using it, and there was a drop or two underneath it after, but certainly nothing that would worry me in a pocket.

 

[sanguinesolitude]

oh, and if you dont want to play with that, my billow v2 works with the subox kit and is an awesome rta.

 

[VNeil]

I have 3 authentic Troll drippers, two work fine but the 3rd comes up as open. Because I have the other two to use on that mod I haven't spent much time playing with that 3rd one but it works on my two Provari's and an iStick. So the answer could be a roll of the dice.

 

[VNeil]

you should work on your wicking. Covering the holes well with cotton keeps my pockets dry with 70/30 vg/pg juice. And it wicks well too.

basically what i do is this. coil as normal and cut wick thick enough so you can just barely pull it through. With the "ears" sticking straight out to each side, cut the wick about a millimeter past even with the build deck and slightly fluff. gently tuck down the ears so they are touching the deck and slide the chimney down trapping them but not pinching them between the deck and chimney.. Use a little screwdriver to make sure the ears are going straight down and fully covering the juice holes. Poke gently through the juice holes to ensure there is a little space, but they are still covered. Juice up the wick, screw on chimney top, and reassemble subtank. Cover the airholes and take a few short pulls without pressing the fire button. look to see that air bubbles rise from the juice holes.
let sit for like 5 minutes to fully absorb.
vape away

for some reason when bunny earing the wicks straight up and poking them down to cover the holes, i always get poor wicking. With the method i used above, it has worked great, and really no leaks. I left my subtank on its side for like 3 days without using it, and there was a drop or two underneath it after, but certainly nothing that would worry me in a pocket.

@sanguinesolitude - are you describing the old style RBA deck with juice channels in the deck? It sounds like that, and not the newer RBA that comes with the Subox, with two holes drilled into the chimney adjacent to the ends of the coil.

 

[sanguinesolitude]

@sanguinesolitude - are you describing the old style RBA deck with juice channels in the deck? It sounds like that, and not the newer RBA that comes with the Subox, with two holes drilled into the chimney adjacent to the ends of the coil.

i meant the new style.

 

[VNeil]

i meant the new style.

OK. I've had good luck with 3mm ID coils, and a KJD wick thick enough to have just a bit of friction sliding through but not enough to distort the coil (usually 26g or 28g depending on target resistance). I push my wick ends against the chimney juice holes and that seems to stop the tank from leaking through the AFC slots. I point the wicks up while I screw in the chimney, never thought to try it your way and not sure exactly what you're doing. But different people seem to get very different results from all that.

ETA: Now I understand... you are letting the wicks sweep down past the juice holes and making sure there is a slight gap. Interesting way to do it.

 

[sanguinesolitude]

OK. I've had good luck with 3mm ID coils, and a KJD wick thick enough to have just a bit of friction sliding through but not enough to distort the coil (usually 26g or 28g depending on target resistance). I push my wick ends against the chimney juice holes and that seems to stop the tank from leaking through the AFC slots. I point the wicks up while I screw in the chimney, never thought to try it your way and not sure exactly what you're doing. But different people seem to get very different results from all that.

ETA: Now I understand... you are letting the wicks sweep down past the juice holes and making sure there is a slight gap. Interesting way to do it.

yeah i was having trouble with doing it the way you were. It would work great for a bit, then dry hits. I think i was pushing the wicks down in a U-shape and it just wasn't wicking well. Now it's been great.

 

[VNeil]

yeah i was having trouble with doing it the way you were. It would work great for a bit, then dry hits. I think i was pushing the wicks down in a U-shape and it just wasn't wicking well. Now it's been great.

I don't know if I want to thank you or curse you. As I'm reading your reply just above I get... a dry hit, of course . So I opened it up and did it your way as best I could with the same used wick (replaced this morning or yesterday I think). So I'll see if it floods now that I've opened it up a bit LOL

Update: it leaked like a sieve, of course I think I left too much of a gap, and if it keeps leaking I'll rewick it and try to split that difference. The problem with the STM is that it's easy to keep them from leaking, and it's easy to keep them from dry hitting but it's a real art doing both at once!

 

[sanguinesolitude]

go a bit heavy on the wick, like as thick as you can slide through without disforming the coil. And make sure the tails are long enough to easily touch the deck. They should already be touching the floor of the deck when you slide the chimney on. Then push from the back to seat them up against the juice holes, and then poke just a tiny bit in from the juice hole itself, without pushing the whole wick back. You want it covering the hole, but with almost a little pocket in the middle of air.

 

[IronWolf]

I'm new to vaping and bought the subox mini as my first vaporizer. I've run through a 5 pack of the replacement coils pretty fast (I was smoking 2 packs a day) so I need to learn about the RBA that came with the coils. Is there a recommended wire size for a 0.50 coil?

 

[sanguinesolitude]

I'm new to vaping and bought the subox mini as my first vaporizer. I've run through a 5 pack of the replacement coils pretty fast (I was smoking 2 packs a day) so I need to learn about the RBA that came with the coils. Is there a recommended wire size for a 0.50 coil?

24 or 26 guage kanthal

 

[IronWolf]

24 or 26 guage kanthal

Thanks!

 

[ashes to batteries]

I'm new to vaping and bought the subox mini as my first vaporizer. I've run through a 5 pack of the replacement coils pretty fast (I was smoking 2 packs a day) so I need to learn about the RBA that came with the coils. Is there a recommended wire size for a 0.50 coil?

I'm new as well and do 5 wraps around the blue screwdriver with 26 gauges and have no issues. No leaking, dry hits or anything. That gets me right at 0.5 OHMs

 

[IronWolf]

I'm new as well and do 5 wraps around the blue screwdriver with 26 gauges and have no issues. No leaking, dry hits or anything. That gets me right at 0.5 OHMs

Thanks!

 

[ashes to batteries]

Noob here. Love the Kanger subtank, but not that great on the fluid staying out of my pockets. Solved that problem by using max VG but now, I can't chain vape or take really big hits without dry and burnt hits.

Seems to me and RDA is the way forward for pocketing this thing with no worries of leaking, big clouds and no dry hits.... right? I'll stick to using my current setup at home however for convenience.

First of all I know there's a lot of issues with compatibility with the subox mini so I'd like something that is known to fit together, and something that's not bigger that the subtank mini so it doesn't look stupid on the subox.

Also, has to be black... or red I guess. Nothing silver.

Any suggestions? Don't really want to spend too much over $40, especially since I'll need to get some cotton and wire with that.

Thanks you helpful cloudy people!

Additional: Looking for big clouds, don't care about flavor, but nothing major enough to rip through 18650 battery too quickly. Big air holes.

Were you using the stock OCC coils? I had leaking issues with those, specifically leaking. But the included RBA deck hasn't leaked at all. Er. Except the time I was tired and forgot to put the the cap back on the chimney. But we won't speak of that.

Anyway, I would try the included RBA deck before buying more parts.

 

[DanJiblets]

I'm too lazy to read this whole thread, but you shouldn't have any leaking. I use the rba, original occs, and vertical occs. No leaks. Maybe the oring fell off the base? Where exactly is it leaking from?

 

[Smokeycracker]

The only problems I have incountered with my sub box kit and leaking was due to extreme temp change. With either the bra or replacement coils

 

[JT!]

Thanks for all the replies. I might have had a little to drink making this thread forgetting that I made it.

I ended up buying a Mutation X V2 clone, wire and cotton.

The leaking is coming from the top and bottom of the ring that allows you to adjust the airflow. Generally when you push it up and down slightly you can see it being squeezed out.

I've used horizontal, vertical and the rebuildable, had leaking issue with all of them. I am in Minnesota so we do have some pretty volatile temperature changes. It's August right now and I can see my breath outside, but can be 85f the next day.

The leaking is at it worse when I put it in my pocket and take it to work with me. At home it may leak a tiny bit but that's not an issue.