Spring Loaded 510 issue

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smokin909

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 24, 2014
136
214
Milan to Minsk
I've been using my Tesla Two Sub mod daily since I bought it and I love it.

I just have one small problem - and I don't know if it's my OCD or unfamiliarity with spring loaded 510 connections or whether I'm imagining the whole thing in my head but here it goes:

When first screwed on my atty the 510 pin felt firm, but now when I remove the atty for charging and I place it back on, I notice that the atty screws back on further than it did previously to achieve the same snugness of connection. When I press down gently on the 510 pin and it depresses down (I have no problems making flush connections with my attys) but the pin doesn't come back up as high as it used to. So instead of my airflow facing in the direction of the firing button - north/south, it now faces across the mod to my left and right. It's now like this all the time and frankly, it is driving me mental.

I removed the top panel one time, unscrewed the base of the 510 pin and noticed the o-ring in the base of the spring on the 510 pin had worked its way up the pin and between the spring, so I pushed it back down and that seemed to work for a while, but now it still happens and this time the o-ring seems to be in the right place.

The strange thing is when I remove the top panel and depress the 510 - it functions perfectly. It's only when I reassemble it that the pin doesn't seem to come back up to its fully raised position. Don't get me wrong, my attys are sitting flush and everything works fine - I just don't know what might have caused this - I think I may have over tightened my atty the first time I used it.

Can anyone suggest what the issue might be or if there is a fix for it?

Here are some photos below that might shed some light:

510 as it appears when the top panel first removed:

image.jpg

510 when the bottom screw is removed (usually the spring is not bunched up at the top of the pin so that was a first)

image.jpg

Further pin disassembly:

image.jpg

The area in which it lives:

image.jpg
 
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smokin909

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 24, 2014
136
214
Milan to Minsk
These springs can lose compression over time. I would try stretching the spring a little, or replace it (requires soldering).

Thanks for that - I'll try to stretch the spring first. I was trying to avoid having to solder, but I'll have to if it doesn't settle down. It's been okay since the last time I adjusted everything. Does the o-ring play a part? It seems a little flimsy and the first time it happened and I looked inside i noticed it had come up between the spring and the pin. When I pushed it back down to the base of the spring I noticed an improvement. If I end up re-soldering I was thinking to replace that one with a slightly thicker one.
 
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smokin909

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 24, 2014
136
214
Milan to Minsk
The batteries are under that foamy/spongy material, however they are two fixed lions charged via micro USB. The only con of this device imo. I'm going to de-solder and replace them in a year's time with 2 x Samsung 25r's - or maybe a couple of lipo cells if there's something out there that is safe and the right specs. The box itself is really nicely made and finished and the button is excellent. The board provides short circuit protection and runs the batteries in parallel. It's an unregulated device with some regulation. e.g. won't fire below 0.2 ohms (which is fine by me - I don't go down that low). Excellent battery life and very small.
 
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mikepetro

Vape Geek
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Feb 22, 2013
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Thanks for that - I'll try to stretch the spring first. I was trying to avoid having to solder, but I'll have to if it doesn't settle down. It's been okay since the last time I adjusted everything. Does the o-ring play a part? It seems a little flimsy and the first time it happened and I looked inside i noticed it had come up between the spring and the pin. When I pushed it back down to the base of the spring I noticed an improvement. If I end up re-soldering I was thinking to replace that one with a slightly thicker one.
Certainly the O-ring can compress over time, but odds are the spring being compressed is your issue. I dont know that I would put an o-rin thicker than the original as it would reduce the throw of the center pin, ie the center wouldnt push down as far due to increased o-ring height.

Honestly, in that FDV type design, the stretching the spring out some almost always solves the issue.
 

smokin909

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 24, 2014
136
214
Milan to Minsk
Certainly the O-ring can compress over time, but odds are the spring being compressed is your issue. I dont know that I would put an o-rin thicker than the original as it would reduce the throw of the center pin, ie the center wouldnt push down as far due to increased o-ring height.

Honestly, in that FDV type design, the stretching the spring out some almost always solves the issue.

Next time I need to open it up, I'll stretch the spring and report back. I'm on a good run atm, I adjusted the position and shape of the wires using tweezers last time so they curved up in a way that fit the available space underneath better. I think that may have also contributed to my current good run. It's not 100% but I have noticed a difference. What does FDV stand for?

Edit: I found it Fat Daddy Vape 510 :)
 

ali-s

New Member
Oct 9, 2015
2
0
55
I've been using my Tesla Two Sub Mod daily since I bought it and I love it.

I just have one small problem - and I don't know if it's my OCD or unfamiliarity with spring loaded 510 connections or whether I'm imagining the whole thing in my head but here it goes:

When first screwed on my atty the 510 pin felt firm, but now when I remove the atty for charging and I place it back on, I notice that the atty screws back on further than it did previously to achieve the same snugness of connection. When I press down gently on the 510 pin and it depresses down (I have no problems making flush connections with my attys) but the pin doesn't come back up as high as it used to. So instead of my airflow facing in the direction of the firing button - north/south, it now faces across the mod to my left and right. It's now like this all the time and frankly, it is driving me mental.

I removed the top panel one time, unscrewed the base of the 510 pin and noticed the o-ring in the base of the spring on the 510 pin had worked its way up the pin and between the spring, so I pushed it back down and that seemed to work for a while, but now it still happens and this time the o-ring seems to be in the right place.

The strange thing is when I remove the top panel and depress the 510 - it functions perfectly. It's only when I reassemble it that the pin doesn't seem to come back up to its fully raised position. Don't get me wrong, my attys are sitting flush and everything works fine - I just don't know what might have caused this - I think I may have over tightened my atty the first time I used it.

Can anyone suggest what the issue might be or if there is a fix for it?

Here are some photos below that might shed some light:

510 as it appears when the top panel first removed:

View attachment 486547

510 when the bottom screw is removed (usually the spring is not bunched up at the top of the pin so that was a first)

View attachment 486548

Further pin disassembly:

View attachment 486549

The area in which it lives:

View attachment 486551
There was no need really to open the connector. Take out the battery first. put a few drops of isopropanol alcohol and push the button it in and out for a few minutes and try it again.
Why this happens:
1. flux of solder goes and gathers inside the cylinder while soldering the wire.
2. liquid nicotine gathers inside by usage.
Good luck.
 
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