The Rebuilding of Cartos

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kcofohio

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First, this walk-through assumes that you have already read up on “Making an Atomizer Coil 101”. That is the bases of the coil for this 808 (Carto) rebuild.

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Notice that I left plenty of fiber yarn hanging, that will go down through the clothe.


Also, would like to thank the pioneers in atty rebuilding, Vaporer, Crazyhorse, and Rbonie, just to name a few.

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The first step after tearing down an atty, is to strip the connector of the leads, you won’t need them in this walk through, (though if you’re like me, you’ll save them lol). Clean the fiber clothes, we’ll reuse them. I soaked mine in vinegar/water mix, then, after rinsing, soaked in distilled water, to reduce any minerals/foreign particles.

Also, clean the carto housing of old glues and fibers. Check the connector, make sure that it still seats firmly into housing. Otherwise, you’ll have to flip ends.


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After clothe has dried, you’ll want to cut both clothes lengthways at about 3/8”. That should have the clothe coming to the top of the air-intake tube when it is rewrapped.

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Next, you’ll want something to mount the connector assembly to. Maybe an old 808 or 901 battery. I used a small vise to mount a threaded rod to. You’ll want stability. Helping Hands are a nice plus.

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Your lead for the neg. will need to be 1/2” plus some that you’ll curve where it gets soldered. That’ll put your coil about an 1/8” above the intake tube.


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Once you’ve soldered the neg. lead, you might want to have two good tweezers for the pos. lead. Take the pos. lead, bend it toward the intake tube, keeping the coil level, and positioned over the tube, that is where both tweezers come into play. After you get it positioned, note where to cut off excess lead, and the position on tube to solder. Solder into position.

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Now that the coil is in place, take the thinner clothe, reference it to the position you soldered the pos. lead, cut lengthways, the lead being the split point. This will help keep a better balance when all is wrapped. Wrap that clothe around, starting with some on the clothe inside of pos. lead (in between lead and tube).

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Taking the other clothe, start wrapping it around, placing the fiber yarn in the wraps.

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Now that you have it wrapped, gently compressing the assembly, start placing the carto tube over wraps. This is where gentleness comes in, as you work the tube over the clothe, you’ll want to use a tine of your tweezers to gently tuck clothe into tube.

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Check continuity of the connector, if all is well, press it together.

So far, I have done 3 cartos this way. Kind of the best of both worlds. It has a reservoir, and you can set your own ohms level.
 
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Scubabatdan

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Got the pics to show, whew.

Great job, I tend to like the coil to be at a 60 degree angle so it takes advantage of the air flow hitting the entire coil. At the horizantal position it only hits a portion. I have been doing this on anything from a 901 to 801's to pill fobs. You can use any connector provided you replace the center post of say a 510 with the cartomizers center post. Here is a posting of the different atty center posts:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...6-new-atomizer-coil-shape-14.html#post1539472

Excellent pics on the how to's Am working an a sort of hybrid that has proved promising in last weeks I have been using it. Just waiting on the ceramic material to come in for the next step.

Here is the pill fob carto I made, holds alot of liquid! :)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...6-new-atomizer-coil-shape-13.html#post1537229

Thanks for sharing!

Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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I'll do that on my next carto, thanks!

Like the pill fob idea, will have to try that out as well.

No problem, out curiosity what is your ohms value on your coil and what gauge wire are you using? I have been using 36ga wire at 2.7ohms and it is about 4 wraps, the pic you have above looks like 10 wraps, so was curious.

Thanks,
Dan
 

kcofohio

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Used 34ga @ 2.6 ohms, it was originally meant to go into an 801, but figured, I didn't have to worry about the confines of a cup.

You're welcome,
Kevin

BTW, after reading back through some of the post, I see your racking up a lot of good ideas. Maybe all of you can eventually come up with a standards panel of some sort for modding.:)
 

Scubabatdan

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Used 34ga @ 2.6 ohms, it was originally meant to go into an 801, but figured, I didn't have to worry about the confines of a cup.

You're welcome,
Kevin

BTW, after reading back through some of the post, I see your racking up a lot of good ideas. Maybe all of you can eventually come up with a standards panel of some sort for modding.:)

If the ceramic paste works the way I envision it, I will be posting a build your own PV and Atty from scratch post. This will eliminate the need for buying costly atomizers and battery systems, and allow everyone to build there own with no china parts! DIY RULEZ!

Just picked up some 34, and 32ga wire so I will be playing with 1.5-2.7ohm coils and see how they perform :)

Thanks again,
Dan
 

kcofohio

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If the ceramic paste works the way I envision it, I will be posting a build your own PV and Atty from scratch post. This will eliminate the need for buying costly atomizers and battery systems, and allow everyone to build there own with no china parts! DIY RULEZ!

Just picked up some 34, and 32ga wire so I will be playing with 1.5-2.7ohm coils and see how they perform :)

Thanks again,
Dan

I'll be watching for that. Hope it works.

I have only worked with 34ga & 36ga.

Welcome again,
Kevin
 

Vaporer

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Nice thread and pics!
DIY does RULE !

He who learns will never be with out.

I really like the horizontal coils. Nothing to burn as the silica or fiberglass doesn't burn at that temp.

I'd like to try one with a mesh center tube, horizontal coil and the coil with IC plugs.
Should be very low maintenance and easy to make when vacation is over.

Again, nice work.
 

Vaporer

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I have some cartos that were sent to me for examination. Problem, burning as usual.
I'll have pics of them. Honestly, the sock type that the unknown material covers the coil, seems to work well, but eventually burns and no one likes that. It doesnt always have the burnt taste either before it occurs. Not a good situation IMO.
So for stock bought carts, the GreenCig "loop" type wins.

I deff prefer the horizontal coil wicked like you have it since we know the silica and fiberglass doesnt burn at normal usage temps. If we can get people used to soldering a little, we pretty much have some "standards" developing that should leave people never without attys and much cheaper too.

Setting it at 60* would help with the airflow "wrap around". Using the airfoil shape will work well with the coil level as you have it. It always had nice coverage and even contact used look. I have a couple ideas to put into my design....naturally.
Should have it up soon.

Nice work........
 

Scubabatdan

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anyone have a tip on removing the battery connector i just ruined one trying to take it apart

I bought a buch of 510 - 901 adapters from madvapes for conversion purposes and found they are all steel, not brass, I can clamp them in a vise and remove the connectors by just wiggleing them back and forth while pulling. No damage and very fast. I have one dedicated for just that purpose.
Dan
 
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