Cartomizer disassembly

[Cisco]

Not much inside, The initial view after pulling the connector out of the shell was a coarse fiber fill that somewhat expanded as I slide it out. After unwinding it there was a second layer of a finer fiber wrapped around the coil. After removing the second layer the coil was exposed. The coil is soldered to a long hollow center post and then wrapped around a fiberglass braided rope with a small piece of larger rope that was covering the solder connection. The member who donated this cartomizer said he used till it just started to taste burnt, you can see the small burn spot on the second layer of fiber. The finer fiber was still wet with liquid but the outer fiber was bone dry. I am sure if this atty was refilled it would keep going.

Its funny how the coil is very bright in the center of the wrap and gets dimmer as it reaches the solder connection, I would have thought it would be an even red all the way around.

Cisco...

 

[roadkilldeluxe]

Am I correct in assuming that the hollow center post leads directly to the mouthpiece?

 

[Carlos49]

Excellent pics Cisco First time I've seen one ... I'm headed in the right direction...LOL

 

[Drewsworld]

I will say this Cisco...When You do something , you do it right...Absolutley the best Illustration with explanation I ve seen to date...Thanks
Drew

 

[Michelle M]

Great photos. I've been "burning" to take apart a cart and photograph the parts to kinda wrap my head around it. But I can't figure out how to get it apart. Maybe just pull it apart from the battery end?

 

[Cisco]

Great photos. I've been "burning" to take apart a cart and photograph the parts to kinda wrap my head around it. But I can't figure out how to get it apart. Maybe just pull it apart from the battery end?

You could thread the cartomizer onto a battery and rock it back and forth to break the connector loose, I am not sure if you will pull the battery connector out first. I would try it with a dead battery if you have one.

Cisco...

 

[roadkilldeluxe]

Sorry to ask again, but am I correct in assuming that the hollow center post leads directly to the mouthpiece?

Thanks for posting the pictures, I've been trying to figure out how these work.

 

[Cisco]

Sorry to ask again, but am I correct in assuming that the hollow center post leads directly to the mouthpiece?

Thanks for posting the pictures, I've been trying to figure out how these work.

No it does not. The coil is in between the hollow tube and the mouth piece. When you draw it pulls air through the center connector up into the hollow tube.The air then leaves the hollow tube and is pulled up across the coil. As the air passes the coil it pulls the vapor being created into the mouth piece.

Cisco...

 

[NJDrew]

Im surprised that you where able to seperate the batt connector from the housing. The two Ive taken apart I had to break the wire and remove the center post. The "heating wire" from my research appears to be Nichrome Wire, would you agree? I would like to try and rebuild some of my cartomizers.

 

[nubee]

I'd have to say the cartomizers look easier to rebuild (or build from scratch) than any regular atty - especially without the small, tight bowl space to work in.

Anybody "know" or tested if the cartos last longer than attys?

Seems to me the cartos would be less likely to junk up from sitting in extra/old/thick juice.

 

[Scottbee]

Based on other atomizer dissections, I would say that you are right regarding the coil being made of nichrome.

 

[roadkilldeluxe]

Every single heat-based atomizer is made with Nichrome. What varies is the gage and the length.

No it does not. The coil is in between the hollow tube and the mouth piece. When you draw it pulls air through the center connector up into the hollow tube.The air then leaves the hollow tube and is pulled up across the coil. As the air passes the coil it pulls the vapor being created into the mouth piece.

Cisco...

Ah. I see, thanks. But the vapor produced has to travel a short bit through the wet filler before reaching the output hole, correct? It just seems like unless the coil is right next to your mouth, there's a chance you could be sucking out liquid in addition to the vapor. (Excuse my ignorance, i'm just trying to figure out how cartomizers work compared to normal attys.)

 

[Cyre]

What pics? I don't see any.

 

[chain_vaper]

Me either...where are these pics!

 

[tdh]

Every single heat-based atomizer is made with Nichrome. What varies is the gage and the length.



Ah. I see, thanks. But the vapor produced has to travel a short bit through the wet filler before reaching the output hole, correct? It just seems like unless the coil is right next to your mouth, there's a chance you could be sucking out liquid in addition to the vapor. (Excuse my ignorance, i'm just trying to figure out how cartomizers work compared to normal attys.)

The fiber comes in a thin sheet that is wrapped around the center post and coil. The tube, coil, and inner space in the fiber basically make a hole that runs the entire length. You can actually see through it. You can suck some liquid through, especially when they are full, but there is a ~3-5mm gap between the top of the mesh and the white cap, which catches most of the excess.

 

[Cee_Jay]

. . . . . . .
Its funny how the coil is very bright in the center of the wrap and gets dimmer as it reaches the solder connection, I would have thought it would be an even red all the way around.

Cisco...

The soldered wire and the connection dissipate heat more than the actual nichrome wire, therefore don't 'glow' as brightly. Much like a heatsink.

 

[melder215]

first off. the nichrome wire will never GLOW unless its dry. VG can only get soo hot before it vaporizes. thats why a full carto doesnt burnt he fibre, but as soon as it starts to dry out it burns. these things would never burn if kept full. they DO NOT COME FULL NEW because they would leak in transport. they put the minimum they can in them. very little QC. top off before using a new one.
if you carto has a stainless steel outside, like mine, we are gonna have trouble. as soon as i exhaust another carto i am gonna try cutting and peeling the SS off, and replacing with a plastic outside like a cartridge from an atty.
if your cartomizer comes with a plastic outside you are lucky. just rebuild them. dont even worry about solder, just crimp the wire with small needle nose. , or make several wrapps with the nichrome around the flexible wire leads.
ive jury rigged my caromizer several time, by just jamming some used nichrome in the center, just to touch the center positive lead, and then touching the other end to the stainless outside closer to the exit, and putting a little more wick over it. remember, any exposed dry nichrome will get red hot, and burn things nearby. if it is touching wet wick it will never get more than 200 some odd degrees.