Vaperrasso cCell rebuilding

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Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Here's a pictorial guide to rebuilding the cCells...

Step one, taking them apart, fairly straight-forward, just be gentle, and take it apart, note that the cCell is a dual shell design, which is a fantastic design so to regulate the liquid flow.

Get your tools out, measure your wire (here I use NI200, 26 gauge and aim for 0.2 ohm)

Do your coil, wrap it as many turns you need to do for your target resistance. at the size that you want (I go with either 3.5 or 4 mm), then stretch it out and push back together until the wraps are properly spaced (very important, the coil must have proper spacing between all the wraps), and you bent the ends.

I bend the negative's end so that I know which is which if it gets hard to tell once the cotton is wrapped.

Measure your cotton to be the right size to cover your coil and fit the whole of the shell, cut it along the grain (usually the longest width of the pad) and separate (giving you two cotton at the ready). To get the right amount, I cut about 1cm of the length


Slide the cotton (loose cotton side on the outside, sheet side is what touches the coil) between the coil and the down-going leg.


The goal is to use this cotton to create insulation between the coil and the down-going leg first, then wrap the cotton around the whole thing.

Slide it gently in, usually better the roll the cotton fairly tight with the coil on something to support it, twist it in gently, then twist counter-wise to "unroll" the coil so that the cotton pushes better against the walls of the shell. Bent the long leg (negative post) on the side (there's a notch that great for that)



Assemble the inner and outer shell, making sure that the align the holes to between each others.


Ensure all appears to be aligned correctly, the center leg (the positive) must not touch any part of the shell.


Place the insulator (rubber/silicone ring)
1)on the negative leg to push it against the shell under the insulator,
2) while the positive which is in the middle is bent slightly over the insulator.


Place the positive pin in, crushing the center leg. Then snip the legs/wire that's sticking out as close to the insulator as possible.


Final result: Using a small tool, ensure that all is in place, work the cotton a bit if needed.



Once you get the hang of it, it just takes a couple of minutes.
 
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Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Ottawa area, Canada
Was the ceramic destroyed during disassembly or did you just not care to fiddle with that bag of worms?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Yes, the ceramic is absolutely destroyed and replaced... the ceramic and the coil of the original are melded together (cannot be separated without breaking either or both parts -coil and ceramic), and once you take one apart, you'll see how much gunk ends up inside the pores of the ceramic and wouldn't be worth trying to save anyways.

It's part of the why "dry burning" these coils (the non TC of course) won't really work to clean them.

But honestly, these rebuilds are 100x better than any "original" cartridge coil I've tried (the eleaf, Aspire or even these Vaperasso ones).

The "tricky" part is being gentle so not to lose the distance between the wraps and end up with a hot spot in your cartridge as you can't test it as you build, you just take the time and do it right and when you do get a "perfect coil", they are as good as it gets, and on par to any of my RTAs or RDAs, plus being vertical, the airflow is also much better, no spitting, popping or such (and if some, it doesn't it you in the mouth).
 

CocaNilla

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Nov 3, 2016
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I have a couple questions regarding the newly built coils and your usage.

1) What VG/PG ratio do you use most with the rebuilds
2) Are you using watt or temp setting
3) What watt/temp specs are generally used
4) How often do you need to rebuild
5) How do you get the inner silver piece out

I just love this tank, but have been experiencing some issues with the cCELL coils, 2 of 5 work in a pack properly (lots of dry hits, and crumbling ceramic right away). I even soak the coils before using the first time. Only vape about 30 watts.

If I could rebuild these and continue using them in my current tank it would save me the trouble and money of investing in a different RBA style tank/coil (and maybe even a new mod). Please and thank you!
 

Imfallen_Angel

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 10, 2016
1,711
2,763
Ottawa area, Canada
I have a couple questions regarding the newly built coils and your usage.

1) What VG/PG ratio do you use most with the rebuilds
2) Are you using watt or temp setting
3) What watt/temp specs are generally used
4) How often do you need to rebuild
5) How do you get the inner silver piece out

I just love this tank, but have been experiencing some issues with the cCELL coils, 2 of 5 work in a pack properly (lots of dry hits, and crumbling ceramic right away). I even soak the coils before using the first time. Only vape about 30 watts.

If I could rebuild these and continue using them in my current tank it would save me the trouble and money of investing in a different RBA style tank/coil (and maybe even a new mod). Please and thank you!
Hi,

1) anywhere from 40/60 to 80/10.. as I DIY (make my own liquids) what makes a huge difference in both wicking and coil life is the sweeteners that I don't use, as per store stuff tend to be very high with such.

2-3) I stick to NI200 for these and getting my best coils with 26 gauge (and try to aim for 0.2ohm), it's always in Temp. control, but with Wattage ranging from 30 up to 60 Watts, usually I go at about 45W. Some liquids require some adjustment, then the temp is adjusted to provide the best vape, flavour, and warmth, but I can normally start at around 420-430, then increase if needed. If you go with either NI or TI for your coil, you must always use temp. control.

4) Depends on some factors, but these rebuilds last me at the least about 2-3 weeks unless it's a bit off and I just try another, but any that I get "perfect", easily over a month.

5) the inner part is simply pulled out, the hardest part is getting a grip on it if it's tight. I find it easiest with my needle-nose pliers to grab from inside, getting a grip on the inner part's holes by just holding the pliers at an slight angle... just move it until you get the feel of the hole with the tip of the pliers, and pinch and it should easily come out. Note that there is a silicon washer at the top of it that might come out, just clean the parts and re-assemble.

Note: For the coils you're using, make sure that if you are using the temp. control ones (NI or TI) and you do use them in temp control. Using them in wattage mode is hazardous as these metals will overheat in wattage mode, causing oxidation and releasing these oxides in the vape which is not a good thing. In temp. control, they are fine.

Hope this helps!
 
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