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Upside down, showing the 510 connection and the eliqued fill screw. Remove the screw and use a needle nose bottle or Ucan. Like the Kayfun 3.0, and does not require the plastic fill needle as does the Kayfun 3.1.

Upside down, showing the 510 connection and the eliqued fill screw. Remove the screw and use a needle nose bottle or Ucan. Like the Kayfun 3.0, and does not require the plastic fill needle as does the Kayfun 3.1.

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The is the finished Kayfun. Chose all metal this day, on my second 2.0 Ohm coil build, as I was having a bit of leaking with the clear tank tube. The metal has not leaked. What a tank! Sitting atop the Siam Mods Tank Holder.

The is the finished Kayfun. Chose all metal this day, on my second 2.0 Ohm coil build, as I was having a bit of leaking with the clear tank tube. The metal has not leaked. What a tank! Sitting atop the Siam Mods Tank Holder.

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Threw the Kayfun on the Kir Fanis eVic to hopefully show the 2 Ohm resistance, using 7 Watts. Great first build and vapes nice. Without air control like it's big brother the 3.1, I found the draw a little too airy and wish I had bought the Russian 91% which is identical but has the air flow control and half the cost. Marvelous piece of engineering and great vape.

Threw the Kayfun on the Kir Fanis eVic to hopefully show the 2 Ohm resistance, using 7 Watts. Great first build and vapes nice. Without air control like it's big brother the 3.1, I found the draw a little too airy and wish I had bought the Russian 91% which is identical but has the air flow control and half the cost. Marvelous piece of engineering and great vape.

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Checking the coil on the Ohm Meter. Shows 1.6 Ohms exactly. I wanted a 2.0 Ohm coil, and rebuilt the coil using a 3/4 wrap and got exactly 2.0 Ohms.

Checking the coil on the Ohm Meter. Shows 1.6 Ohms exactly. I wanted a 2.0 Ohm coil, and rebuilt the coil using a 3/4 wrap and got exactly 2.0 Ohms.

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The remaining tubes are added, this day all metal, and then the top and mouth piece (drip tip) are added. The Kayfun is ready for juice now.

The remaining tubes are added, this day all metal, and then the top and mouth piece (drip tip) are added. The Kayfun is ready for juice now.

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the top of the chimney is added, as is the first tank ring.

the top of the chimney is added, as is the first tank ring.

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At this point, I added some eliquid. It allowed me to push the wicks down into the chimney tube, but not "stuffed," which could block juice flow. Also, remember to keep the coil above the air flow chamber.

At this point, I added some eliquid. It allowed me to push the wicks down into the chimney tube, but not "stuffed," which could block juice flow. Also, remember to keep the coil above the air flow chamber.

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The wicks are then trimmed.

The wicks are then trimmed.

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The long ekowool 3mm wicks fed up the chimney.

The long ekowool 3mm wicks fed up the chimney.

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First coil. This is a 3/2 wrap with 32 Kanthal. The base sits in a Siam Mods base holder. Notice the wick sits above the airhole. The leads are easily connected with the two screws.

First coil. This is a 3/2 wrap with 32 Kanthal. The base sits in a Siam Mods base holder. Notice the wick sits above the airhole. The leads are easily connected with the two screws.

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Bill's Magic Vapor

My Kayfun

The SvoeMesto Kayfun Lite
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Bill's Magic Vapor
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Bill's Magic Vapor

Bill's Magic Vapor

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