If you are doing the no idle circuit then meter across two middle. Battery across one side and 510 on the other. Grounds are isolated not common on that circuit.
As far as the soldering iron, just something small, like 15-20 watts with a fairly fine point. The one I got was a Weller 20w and it worked great.
The parts I used were all suggested by others except for the resistors which I came up with myself and the switch I just through on there to have one...
Yup, 5 to 6 with the band towards 6.
On a side note both my raptors died and I don't know how. One worked for a couple weeks the other a couple days. No idea how I killed them.
Oh ya, and g to s on the nfet
That sucks, I've bought 4, 2 twice, and didn't have any issues. I'd be surprised if they didn't fix it and send you the other.
Varitubes new ones look good but I haven't bought any yet to know for sure.
The switch you use is mostly ascetic. Pretty much any momentary normally open switch will work as it doesn't need to carry the load current. If you like the way it looks and it fits you're good.
I chose the higher to not drain my batteries as much. I do have to change them more often than...
Ok, larger coil, more wraps of bigger wire. I did 8 wraps 24g on 1/8", dual coil came out .45 ohm. A little higher than I wanted but performs well all the way up. It is a bit sluggish on a mech. Previously on my mech I've been running twisted 28g abyss coils(2-28g twisted then wrapped in SS...
Anyone have a good build at around .3-.35 that will handle full voltage? Every build I've tried so far has a point where it just can't wick fast enough and burns my cotton. I've also noticed that about 3.8-3.9v feels like a full battery on my copper panzer with a .6 coil and about 3.7v for the...
I'm a little confused. The listed fets are n-channel so the gate would be positive but I'm having difficulty visualizing how that would actually work. My first thought was that logic 1 and 2 connect to the positive of cell 2 through a spst switch but i keep confusing myself as try to think...
That looks really promising. As I'm seeing this, with a spdt slide sw you select charge mode or fire mode and the center off acts as no idle drain and master kill.
edit-and it's low current so a micro slide switch should work.
You could strip it down and just use the basic circuit, cut out the fet, and see if it will work. Easier to check the chip without all the extra stuff.
Which circuit did you build? Pictures might help if you can get good ones. Otherwise all I got is, check for bridged connections and double check your diagram.
Look at this one T7RYB201KT20. Should be easier to epoxy in place. This one might work also 91AR200LF. Just guessing as I don't have any of these in hand.
Well, you can use the one just mentioned, I think Rapture mentioned it earlier in the thread also. It mounts with a nut so you don't need epoxy. I was just really careful and used just a little bit of epoxy at first just to get it to stay in place, then went back over it with a little more later.
Any battery store should accept cells for recycle. I would assume home depot would accept them also.
Unfortunately most of these probably just get thrown it the trash.
No, I know the recommended method of disposing of lipo rc batteries is to drain them as much as possible then submerge in salt water for 24 hrs or until it reads 0v before sending for recycle.
No they won't vent from sitting around but the longer they set at below 3v the faster they will...
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