The forum post is too old to allow the original author (Mamu) to edit the text of the original post, however the schematics shown on the original post is hosted on Mamu's own web server so she can update that as needed. (meaning: Go with parts shown on the image, not with parts listed in text)
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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The forum post is too old to allow the original author (Mamu) to edit the text of the original post, however the schematics shown on the original post is hosted on Mamu's own web server so she can update that as needed. (meaning: Go with parts shown on the image, not with parts listed in text)
Hey jeepster with the zener you chose what voltage are your batteries generally at when you have to recgarge them? Thanks
@texanator K thank you, got it now
It varies with the load. I was running a .6 at about 4.5v when it cut off(startes flashing). My batts were at 3.5 no load.
excellent thats the one I will use then, and thanks a lot for the mouser list. With the op not being able to edit her part list it really helped me get started with a current list. I'm gonna go with the no idle circuit I believe, got the nfet and 47k res, I understand it for the most part following this diagram by mamu but just wanted to get clarification on 2 things. Does the 47k connect G and S on the nfet? Also does the zener leg connect to both 5 and 6 like shown in the picture below? Thanks
View attachment 366954
View attachment 366954
Yup, 5 to 6 with the band towards 6.
On a side note both my raptors died and I don't know how. One worked for a couple weeks the other a couple days. No idea how I killed them.
Oh ya, and g to s on the nfet
On a side note both my raptors died and I don't know how. One worked for a couple weeks the other a couple days. No idea how I killed them.
Oh ya, and g to s on the nfet
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Hmm thats actually concerning me a bit because I was planning on building the nfet build with many of your recommended parts. If you figure out what happened I'd be really interested in knowing.
My soldering iron is over 20 years old and was the cheapo even back then so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good one for this build, or at least some stats I should look for in one, power/temp, tip ect. Whats the best solder to use as well? Thanks everyone!!!!
As far as the soldering iron, just something small, like 15-20 watts with a fairly fine point. The one I got was a Weller 20w and it worked great.
The parts I used were all suggested by others except for the resistors which I came up with myself and the switch I just through on there to have one in the list. the Zener was, I think, suggested by someone also. Nfet and Pfet are straight from diagram. Fuses are from the old diagram without the no idle drain circuit.
Overall it looks like I probably messed something up, twice, in my building as no one else seems to be having the same problems as I am.
The parts I used were all suggested by others except for the resistors which I came up with myself and the switch I just through on there to have one in the list. the Zener was, I think, suggested by someone also. Nfet and Pfet are straight from diagram. Fuses are from the old diagram without the no idle drain circuit.
Overall it looks like I probably messed something up, twice, in my building as no one else seems to be having the same problems as I am.
This is equivalent to a 80 dollar soldering station it is the clone. It is not as good as the name brand out the box but reviews say just calibrate it and its awesome. Everybody in r/c loves the thing.. For our use it will never need calibrating..
Radio Control Planes, Helicopters, Cars, Boats, FPV and Quadcopters - Hobbyking
But...
Fasttech just loaded an iron yesterday and it would be fine for doing a few mods..
But ya cannot beat the price of that station its really decent for the coin..
$5.90 GY-113A 40W Soldering Iron for Electronics DIY - US plug / 6A/250V at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I got an aesthetically pleasing build in the works. If all goes well I'll post up some pics.
Hint: no visible wires under the hood
Hint: no visible wires under the hood
Please note that that fasttech soldering iron is 250 volts. Even though it has a us plug. It is not us voltage. It will only produce 10 watts (1/4 power). That has been a problem with many fasttech soldering irons.
Ok great and whats the best type of solder for this type of application, I have some old "60/40 clear flux .062" and 60/40 rosin core solder .032" are either of those good or is there something better I can pick up for this build? Thanks so much!!!
So the original guide here said to use 20 awg for load carrying and 22 for signal. I bought 18 awg and planned on using it for everything right but I'm now im reading that 18awg cant handle the amps of raptor at or near max. Could someone explain why these tables show 16amps free air and 10 amps enclosed for 18awg wire? Not trying to imply that I have any clue as to what either of those mean. Guess thats just a really long way of asking if 18awg is safe to use for raptor lol, thanks
I used 20awg for input and output with my first few builds. These mods were for me and I don't vape anywhere near 20A mostly around 5A lol.
I currently use 18awg for input and output with all my builds though as some of my mods are going to people who vape at high amps and use 24awg, sometimes 22awg depends on what I have on hand, for all other wiring.
I've had no issues with 18awg getting hot or causing a problem with voltage drop under load when running high amps. That would be the key factor - the wire getting hot and causing increased resistance under load - if 18awg is safe or not.
Do you have a link and real world testing for this?
I currently use 18awg for input and output with all my builds though as some of my mods are going to people who vape at high amps and use 24awg, sometimes 22awg depends on what I have on hand, for all other wiring.
I've had no issues with 18awg getting hot or causing a problem with voltage drop under load when running high amps. That would be the key factor - the wire getting hot and causing increased resistance under load - if 18awg is safe or not.
Do you have a link and real world testing for this?
18awg should be more than plenty given the facts that the wire lengths are extremely short (an inch or two) and it is not on for longer than a couple of seconds at a time. (I built mine with 18awg stranded and had no issues going as low as a 0.25ohm coils at max voltage)
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Yeah you know I figured there was something I wasnt quite understanding but just wanted to run it by you guys. I bought this switch for my volt meter MHS223 Apem | Mouser and it has 6 pins, any advice on how to wire it? Do I just use one side of 3 and use it like the 3 pin switch on diagram. Its a dpdt on off on switch Thanks
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If you are doing the no idle circuit then meter across two middle. Battery across one side and 510 on the other. Grounds are isolated not common on that circuit.
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