It sharpened the rounded edge a little. I am not using magnets on this, with the screws I can kind of center up the lid as I tighten the screws and not feel the seam. Here's a pic of the cover side if that's what you meant.
here's one next to my unsanded ugly DNA30 box.
xxiaze - I'd check the on/off and power in terminals to make sure that they aren't shorted. Could be a stuck/bad switch or the pulldown resistor could be bad/open/broken. Those are the 3 things I'd check first.
Wow, those look nice, very tidy. That 1550P box is incredible, lots of trimming to get it in there.
I didn't think about narrowing the battery holder and didn't notch my post so maybe I will be able to squeeze it in.
Thanks for the pics, they were very inspirational.
That's what I'm doing lol. I have some stripboard that I'm using and have the clips on the way. Here are the pieces cut and test fitted. I was planning on putting the nfet and 47k res in the little cavity at the bottom.
That's interesting. I was hoping to use the MNKEs for the extra run...
Thanks a lot.I reinstalled the cap, making careful note of polarity lol. Worked great. Figured out what I did wrong on the switch, I had too many diagrams and got two mixed up. Went back through it and found I hooked the pulldown resistor to the wrong spot. All wired up and works great, just...
Though actually I have hours into deciding how to build it and have all the pieces cut, I just need some good clips. I'll probably just keep building that.
I was sure they would be making them already but no one is making them yet that I can find, I have looked quite a bit.
dual 26650 holder that sets the battery flush (no thicker or wider than the batteries). should be able to fit 1590B box. For OKR and Raptor boxes.
Here's them in the box with some shims around them.
Ah. Didn't realize they had polarity. As far as the auto fire, I have no idea what I did. I rebuilt the switch circuit thinking the zener melted but same result. Have it working with a NC sw to ground but have no low volt protection.
Well hell, I screwed something up. Got the parts for an OKR 10 mod, put it all together and the cap blew as soon as I put in the batts. I cut it out and tried it again. Fires constantly whether the button is pressed or not. Not sure what I did wrong, maybe got something too hot soldering.
As long as it's wired to the fire sw and not as a battery kill switch. Then it doesn't see the load current just the low current of the fire sw, which should be in the milliamp range so even a 1 amp switch would be more that enough.
So are pins 10 and 3 tied together on the board or do they need to be tied together externally? I was wondering becausl I'd like to wire mine like this. I can add a jumper if needed, i just would rather save the space.
Also, is this correct? lol
Looks like they did pretty good this month. I'm going to give them a few months to get their scheduling straight before rejoining. Once they can consistently get close to their expected ship date I will probably rejoin. Although I am a little irritated that they show 15 premium brands on their...
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