I don't solder all the grounds in a bundle but they all go to the battery tray ground. I splice them into the tray ground wire at different spots. I make my boxes a little different though and that's just how I do it.
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
- Thread starter mamu
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Bring wires together, solder. Use heat shrink tubing to cover the joint.
But they've got to be in contact with the box, don't they?
If not, sorry for my misunderstanding, but yeah.
It all depends how you wired your box. If it is a metal box and you attached your 510 to it, then theoretically the box will be part of the ground, but I don't know if it is advisable to use it as a ground. I'm assuming you are using a hammond cast aluminum box, you can't solder into it, at least not easily. Why should the ground wires be in contact with the box? What purpose is the box doing that you can't accomplish with a piece of wire?
most of the electrical I do, is car audio. I'm used to the ground being part of the body, hence my assumption here. so just compiling the end of all the ground wires and soldering them together will work?
I've made boxes using both the abs plastic and aluminum enclosures. All my grounds are wired into the wire coming off battery tray ground.
On another note they 470 ohm pot knob and 350 resistor worked great. Thanks again.
On another note they 470 ohm pot knob and 350 resistor worked great. Thanks again.
With the no idle drain circuit the on/off switch just disables the fire button and can be any low current switch that will fit.
Mamu - You posted this pic of an OKR circuit. I wanted to clarify something, is it just a single 22 mic cap for the input or two paralleled? Thanks!
So a low amp (10 amp or lower) would work for the on off switch?
As long as it's wired to the fire sw and not as a battery kill switch. Then it doesn't see the load current just the low current of the fire sw, which should be in the milliamp range so even a 1 amp switch would be more that enough.
Last edited:
Thanks! Just got the last of the parts to build an OKR box. Got a couple weeks until my backordered raptor boards come in then I can start on them.
The diagram on page 1 of this thread does not have the no idle drain components, they are on page 33 diagram. It is a slightly more advanced build. And with the no idle drain components, there is no great need for an on/off switch at all as all it would do is disable the fire button. I'm pretty sure WellThenn is building according to page 1 diagram. Now, the 16 amp switch would most likely work just fine as it is also probably rated for higher than 8.4volts (max output from 2 fresh batteries), or am I wrong?
I'm going off the one on first page, yes. even my 16amp switch is too large.. I guess I'll be ordering a new one and waiting a few days.. ugh. is it possible to do the mod without the switch and without a volt meter just to test the waters? and implement the 2 in future builds?
Yes.
Master switch function is to turn battery drain off. No master switch - remove batteries when if not going to use the box for an hour or two or longer. Volt meter function is to show battery charge or what voltage you push to your atty. Neither are a must-have option.
I do not use volt meters/slide switches anymore and I'm perfectly fine not seeing the volts just be aware that even though the mod has auto cut off (if done right with zener) you should not be relying on that and test your batts to get an idea of how often you need to charge.
- Status
Similar threads
