Well, they're designing that Nautilus tank to fit on the widest range of popular mods - and you'll find dozens of them without eGo cone threading but none without a 510 (well, maybe the Zenesis stuff :))
And the small tanks use ego threading because they're specifically designed to work with...
It's not unusual - I'm vaping Dekang liquids in my PT2 atm at 7 watts because it seems to get the best vapour and flavour out of the stock 2.2 ohm coil (for me) - next week I'm getting some different liquids in and I'm rebuilding the coils so that may change but vape at whatever tastes good to...
Well, if you used a full-size ProTank you'd want to get rid of the eGo cone threading so you didn't have to use a pointless beauty ring :)
Same with the RBAs like the KFL+ cone threading simply makes the device bigger for no good reason - after all, you can always get a cheap adapter if you...
Dry hits are usually caused by thicker liquids - for a 70/30 PG/VG mix you shouldn't need to remove any wicks (in fact, since the wicks are there to keep the atty from flooding, removing them could cause gurgling/flooding) - always best to try a head with the wicks in first then remove one or...
Yeah - they must've done a silent revision after pbursado's review - I like the fact that Innokin seems to take notice of what the reviewers are saying and make adjustments accordingly - they really are top of the pile of the Chinese manufacturers I think - shame they don't tell their customers...
Not sure how recently they started putting these on there - I've seen some videos where they had a holographic sticker instead (don't know whether those were legit or not lol!) - from Kanger's website:
Sounds like there's probably as many fakes out there as real ones :D
I noticed a few people are asking for a lighter press on the button - I'm assuming you've got older MVP2 since on mine (energy series) the button seems fine - it also sits flat (no wobble) since the output button is flush to the bottom of the MVP now - kinda wish pbusardo would update his review :)
If you've been dry-burning the heads it's possible to burn the grommet on the bottom of the Kanger heads - the old ones were rubber and burned, the new ones are silicone and are more heat-resistant.
Actually, that depends on the travel to the contact point in the airflow control - the issue with the silicone grommets you describe is the grommet getting squished and expanding to block the airflow - since the distance between the airflow control and the bottom pin of the ProTank head is now...
Actually it does but bizarrely it doesn't kick in until you up the wattage sometimes - see pbusado's review of the Opus D (16:00) - with a 1.6 ohm head set at 7.0 watts the DNA 20 delivers 3.8 volts (unregulated), upping the wattage to 7.4 kicks in the regulation and drops the voltage to 3.5 volts.
Yes, but the base of the airflow control (and AeroTank) is sealed - it pulls the air in from the side of the unit now.
2 nice things about that:
a) no more liquid on your PV
b) no more cutting off the airflow to the PT by screwing it down too tight
It cranks down to 7 watts and around 3.4 volts (lower depending on battery charge) - can't do much on the low end but 7-9 watts seems to be what 'all the kids' are vaping these days - I agree it could be a little overkill but for 1.8-2.2 ohm devices the DNA still provides a good vape.
The silicon seal is there for three reasons:
1) To prevent liquid directly entering the airflow tube from the tank
2) To create a seal around the point where the chimney meets the head
3) The seal also slightly covers the inlets, helping to keep the wicks snug and prevent flooding
Adding an...
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