AW is the brand.
IMR is the chemistry like Li-ion or Li-Po
IMR is a "safe" chemistry meaning that if it decides to "vent" or explode it will not shoot out a fireball, only hot gas.
as long as your not getting the vape too hot,
using little or no PG and lowering the nic will help
you dont need to use PG. Pure VG is really thick and does not wick well. so you can add distilled water and thin it down a bit.
the PG really helps carry the flavoring and nicotine so if you do...
as american im kinda proud of our backwards system of weights and measures :laugh:
sure it works and all but when the rest of the world uses something different it sort of makes you feel "Special":banana:
yeah i would totally agree with that. and the fact that my sanyo batteries do not get warm at all tells me something is "different" about these no name batteries.
if your mod ever acts up or something just seems off. stop using it until you can get to a multi-meter and figure out the problem. its not worth the risk. also make sure you use the proper charger for it. dont try to rig up something because you dont have the correct charger.
NP CapKnots
the no name batteries seem to really get my mod warm as well... the last time i got no name batteries from the same place they worked just fine. :facepalm:
the no name batteries are brand and under a 30 day warranty.
i watched the sales guy pull them out of the box and take them out of the...
so i have been using these batteries for a long time now 14500 - 800mAh Sanyo Battery
they work great and charger never gets warm at all when i charge them
a few days ago i bought some Li-ion 14500 batteries 800 MAH. from my local vape shop
and when i put them on the charger the whole...
it really depends on the device some VV mods put out a fixed amperage and the computer just raises or lowers the volts to increase or decrease the wattage.
and some other devices will change the amperage as well as the volts..
this is a chart that compares the ProVari V1 and V2
you can see...
that can describe and intermittent short or interment open
a short would look like a low reading. for example if you make your coil and you know your resistance should be 2.0 ohm but your reading .8 ohms. this would be a short. probably caused by the coil wraps touching one another.
an open...
voltage is the electrical pressure.
Amps is the speed the electricity is moving at.
Volts X Amps = Watts
and the watt is a unit of power..
so volts and watts are two very different things.
most Ohm meters work the same way, by sending a known amount of voltage at a known amperage through the wire you are checking and seeing what volts / amps come out the other side. the more resistance the wire has the less volts and amps will come out the other end.
Wattage is a unit of power. Volts X Amps = watts
Voltage is the electrical pressure inside the wire.
Amps is the speed the electricity is moving at.
Ohms or resistance is the back pressure caused by friction.
as resistance goes down, amps go up.
as resistance goes up, amps go down.
Amps...
the coils in the link you posted use NR-R-NR wires so they are pretty much like what comes from the kanger factory.
you can try them. i don't see any reason why not other than they might not fit well and you would waste like 3 bucks + shipping.
you can also get the wires here $3.25 Pre-made...
i believe the MT3 coils uses the a 2 mm wick with six wraps of wire.
the wraps have a bigger cap in the middle effectively making it two series circuit coils.
and two 1 mm wicks "flavors wicks" on top of the wires.
you might get away with using one 3 mm wick with a coil wrapped round it. i...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/541586-kanger-evod-how-re-wick.html#post12575982
this is the method i use for replacing the wick in kanger heads.
the coil legs are held in place with rubber grommet. this rubber grommet will melt and burn if the legs of the...
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