Ok... I miss understood....
Still my 20 dollar HF drill is 5 years old work fine...... for twisting wires and the occasional household usage.... yes a cheap drill isn't the drill I would use to remodel my house or if I needed one for work. but for building coils you just need control able...
Ohhhhh... didn't know those had a juice block..... might put it back on my wish list.
But i still don't like how the air is flush to deck and so close to wick holes. Just asking for seapage.
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Then the rba base is the problem.... coil itself should not change ohm by more than a few hundreths. .5 to .45 meh.... .5 to .3 us a connection issue in the atty..
Could an isolator going bad.... starting to cause a short.
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No it means the juice is flowing....... or being absorbed by the wick. Should be a bubble or a couple after every draw.
Excess flow and condensation are the most common source if leaks out the air holes.
Might need more cotton at the juice channels...need enough to seal the tank but not plug...
Ale sure the wick is completely clear of tbe air holes.
Some seapage is normal with bottom air..... as gravity is in affect and consensation. Both lead to juice in the air channels... since the juice won't flow up... you get seapage. Proper wicking Can reduce.. but not eliminate.
Sent...
Why do you think you need a drill if you don't even have a mod.....
You do know you don't need a drill to build coils... only to make certain kinds of fancy wire. Which a newbie shouldn't be making anyway.
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My drill is a $20 harbour freight special. ....
Really any drill will do if it is variable speed and the chuck closes to zero.
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Possible yes... go on a need a really small clapton though.. 30 core with 40 wrap...
Would work best in the dual coil heads as a single verticle coil.
I used to do triple twisted builds un those heads. So you could do a clapton if you can get it small enough.... other issue is going to be...
If they are selling them in pairs or sets they might..as a specific build... but they wshould still be sold or listed by individual rating....
Still safety requires you know what you have BEFORE you install or use it.
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Some mods have clocks and may use more power than others and some may even consume a few MA when shot off.... basically like a TV or PC or cell phone if it's plugged in or has a battery in it.... it using some power.
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Normaly yes.... are you sure the coils were the starting ohm you assumed?
I mean.... you did test their ohm prior to instal.. right?
this is why we need to use a stand alone Meter when building....
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Get longer grubs for the Air control.. that's what did on my dual air clone and my 3.1. Can shut mibe down to Zero air flow. I don't use the plus much.. the seapage out the screw holes is anoying.
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Thats a deckless rtda... you could just dump juice over the coils. It will flow down the wicks to the tank. But needle tipped bottle might do the trick on the fill port.
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Yes that's a good way to start... buy a variety of coils... keep track of materials used and number of wraps and such... pretty soon you will find what works best for you. Then you can just buy the wire and make your own coils in the future.
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Mean it only outputs at battery voltage. Full charge that's 4.2 down to the 3.2 volt you recharge at. Unregulated.
You will need to use Ohms law to determine required ohm coil to achieve desired wattage range.. max to min based on charge state of battery.
Steam-engine.org has a good...
So then why start at a lower voltage....... 80% charge is 80% of full voltage not 80% of mah...
Unless your vaping at 10 watts or so your discharging at a much higher rate than the .5 to 1 amp maybe 2 amps you are charging at........
I don't see how you increase cycles by an increase in...
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