Just curious why you would want to do that?
In a parallel setup the negative terminals are tied together and the positive terminals are tied together. You get the same voltage as a single battery but increased capacity (mah) and current handling ability.
To make it a series mod you'd need to...
After using it a while the wicking didn't seem that great, had some bad dry hits with it. I rebuilt today with some better twisted wire. I also tried to place the coil closer to the outside edge. Seems to be my most successful build thus far...The flavor is really good and the vapor is also...
I always heard you're not supposed to fill a tank to 100% capacity because it might not feed liquid correctly. On a tank like the Atlantis you really can't over fill it, if you did it would pour out the chimney/tip. I always fill mine as much as possible without liquid overflowing into the...
Hard to say, 3-4 packs/day was getting really hard on me after nearly 18 years. Kind of scary to think about where I'd be now if it wasn't for vaping. Dead, broke, sick? One or more of those would probably sum it up.
I was always concerned about quality and safety when it came to eliquid, so I mostly bought from American companies and AEMSA members. I've recently started making my own eliquid, so far I'm very happy with the results and cost.
For premixed I'd check out AEMSA members as a starting point.
If you got it for free and it works, I wouldn't worry about it. I tend to support manufacturers who spend the time on the R&D to develop a device and not those who produce fakes based off someone else's design. That said, I wouldn't worry about a device if it was a quality product and free.
If you are using 24 gauge Nickel at 0.6 ohms that would be about 100 wraps with a 3mm coil. That doesn't sound right.
Your batteries should handle any reasonable build at 0.2 ohms or higher without any issue. It's hard to safely build below 0.2-0.3 ohms because very small changes in...
This:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/4848-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html
and this:
Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
With a mech mod or variable voltage mod, you are correct. Increasing resistance will result in less current draw (Assuming everything else remains the same.) and cause the battery to drain more slowly than with a lower resistance atomizer.
On a regulated variable wattage mod set to X watts...
Since we're talking about running two different resistance coils at the same wattage, I assume we're talking about a regulated variable wattage device. In that case, the current draw from the battery should be the same with either resistance atomizer. So the battery would drain at...
You should really have a digital multi meter if you're rebuilding and have a mech mod. But if you have an ohm meter and it says it's 0.2 ohms, then that's probably alright on a dual parallel 18650 mod assuming you have good high drain safe chemistry batteries.
If it won't work with any...
IMHO, if you were going to buy something like an MVP, why not get the new MVP V3? Or like an iStick 30 or 50 watt. Those will give you a lot more options in the future. Just my opinion.
Does it work again if you take the cap off the RDA? If so, coil might be touching cap and shorting. I'd use your ohm meter to check power from the mod to make sure it's working right and check the atomizer for shorts.
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