MVP. Not fixed 5 volt but adjustable, variable wattage too, if you want. Built like a tank. 2600 mamp battery that last all day. Easy to charge with a USB cable. Cheap. Buy 5 instead of one provari.
Innoken MVP. It works great for me. I have higher watt devices but the 11.0 watts is enough for most of my vaping. It is strong. Easy to charge with a usb cable. Doesn't roll (some of us prefer box mods). Gives a flat power output. Battery last all day. Does variable wattage and voltage. Built...
The discounts have always applied automatically for me. I just set the quantity to 3 or 5 or whatever and click buy. The discount automatically applies. I don't think you can combine colors or models. They all need to be the same identical item, just a larger quantity.
Please note that that fasttech soldering iron is 250 volts. Even though it has a us plug. It is not us voltage. It will only produce 10 watts (1/4 power). That has been a problem with many fasttech soldering irons.
You neeed some fuses.
Look at the work of an expert. Mamu tells all here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/538730-arlo-dual-18650-dna20-30-step-step-how.html
She has forgotten more about designing and building mods than we will ever know. She has a couple of fuses in there...
I had a problem with high resistance readings. I have a silver V3. The resistance also changed if I wiggled the atomizer. I found that the 510 wasn't making good connection to the body. I used my multimeter to see that there was .1 to .5 ohms between ground and the 510 body. The poor connection...
I believe the evods have a mini usb port. Almost everything I use/charge has a micro port. I would need a different cable to use the evod. Mini usb cables aren't nearly as common as micro usb. For that reason I prefer the VV3.
I have both. I prefer the MVP. No battery changing, just usb charge when I have a chance. Not a light saber. More pocketable.
I have rbas and drippers that I prefer at 12 to 14 watts and I use those on the vamo. My kayfuns and clearos go on the mvp.
I have the "cheap" version. It works fine. Threaded afc ring. Screws fit. Small deck. No leaking for me. I guess I should review it on fasttech. It is a clone but the workmanship seems fine. Even the "original" is made by a clone manufacturer.
I have both. The fogger v4 with its dual coils really needs more power than you have. I use it at .9 ohms and 20 Watts. It doesn't taste any better than my kayfuns at 10 or 11 watts. It just makes more vapor. I really recommend the kayfun.
I guess I just got the fogger v4 to justify buying the...
My last order was fast. I ordered a Hana 30 clone with battery (Singapore post) on July 9th. It was in my hot (Oklahoma summer hot) little hands on the 19th. I was expecting it in August.
I am very happy with the clone. It has an adjustable 510 pin, working charging light, and no split top. I...
I'm happy with my FT DNA 30. It has no split in the top an d an adjustable 510 pin. Came with efest battery. Works great. Charges fast. Much lighter than my mvp2 or vamo v5. It claims to be manfactured by HotCig according to the stickers inside. Reads .1 to .3 ohms high, depending on resistance...
Vacuum leaks through the 510 pin don't cause leaking. It just lets air into the vapor chamber which is already open to air through the drip tip. My 3.1 (clone) leaks there and doesn't gurgle or leak a bit. Maybe a drop of liquid ends up in the lower catch chamber after a couple tanks. It isn't a...
Fisheebe hoy:
It could be the usb cable that has gone bad. Try a different micro usb cable and see if it charges. I've had those go bad on me lots of times. It could also be the charger but they are more reliable than the cables.
I'd wait on the Ruzgar until it has been around longer. I haven't heard many reports on it. I'd like to see some reviews on Fastech before I buy. I like my clone Kayfuns/russians. I've ordered a fogger v4 but it hasn't arrived (or even shipped) yet.
I just stick a magnet on top of mine if I need a button top. I can take it off if I don't want it. Just a small thin neodymium disk magnet. Works great.
That is mostly correct. I think the maximum amps drop a little for the series mode because you now have double the internal resistance of one battery. It is probably only a milliohm or three. The current has to pass through two batteries instead of one. The maximum amps might drop from 35 to 34...
Sounds like you have some extra resistance down at the firing switch. Something down there isn't making good contact and is heating up. There might be some grease or even skin oil on the contacts. Clean everything up and hope for the best. There shouldn't be any heat at the switch.
Sounds like you are using a N/C fire button rather than the required N/O button. It is always firing except when you hold the button down, which opens the switch. Lock still works because it just looks for multiple on/off cycles. Firing is messed up with the nomally closed button. Just check it...
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