Double-check the pull-down resistor's soldered connections then to make sure it's secured. Also, double-check the wiring to the fire switch's contacts to make sure nothing is touching each other there.
After tinkering with various value resistors and seeing what actual cutoff voltage is vs calculated cutoff voltage, I think we're lucky that we have a narrow cutoff voltage range and that range seems to be in a linear portion because the fudge factor of calculated vs actual is the same for our...
20A is my limit, and that is even way beyond my usual amp draw, so no don't have plans working with any converter with higher amps. I believe there's thread here though with a 60A one.
Hi ecat! Thanks so much for helping.
I already have pin 11 wired with the UVLO resistor between it and ground as that's the only way to get UVLO regulation (see pic below).
Edited to make this the short version. :laugh:
The converter is working aok with the N.O. switch how I have it wired...
It's still a work in progress.
FET with no pull-up resistor causes firing with and without pressing the switch.
FET + pull-up resistor with N.O. switch works, and no FET with N.C. switch works.
Sense is a part of the converter's feedback loop that monitors (senses) if there is any voltage drop between the board and the load (atty) and if there is, the converter will compensate for it.
Sense wasn't mentioned anywhere in the Raptor datasheet, except as a figure in the Turnable Loop...
Update: a work around for not having to use an NC switch and instead use an NO switch has been tested and is working aok. Thanks so much to MJarvis for his help in locating the schematic that shows this - and of all things with an Evercool board.
I should call this converter Evercool on...
Features:
16A, 88W
Input: 4.5 - 14V
Output: 0.69 - 5.5V
Adjustable UVLO
2 versions - PTH08T220W and PTH08T221W. I chose to work with PTH08T221W (ceramic cap version).
Datasheet here: PTH08T221W
Tiny profile for a 16A module (23mm x 20mm x 9mm)...
Size comparison with the OKR-T10...
I revised the OKL2-T20 wiring guide to more of a schematic type and already I get a request to bring the old one back lol.
I don't like the huge Hammond cases, so I used my Sam case (2x C battery box - 83mm x 57mm x 30mm) and it's fully loaded with P-FET, fuses, low battery indicator, voltage...
I just ordered a 16A 88W DC-DC Converter to tinker with.
What drew my interest to it is that it has programmable UVLO - I can set low voltage cutoff to what I want with just a single resistor on the inhibit pin. The converter has a nice low profile and size for being a high amp converter...
What would be way cool would be to figure how the Raptor sets the UVLO at 4.2v and change that to 6.2v or so with a few resistors or what nots. I have no idea if that is even doable, but without a Raptor schematic I wouldn't know where to begin.
I think so too. I love love what the high drain lipos do for us vs cylindrical. And lipos have much much lower internal resistance than cylindrical, so that helps with longer vape times too.
I hear ya. I was really disappointed that the supervisory IC at the cutoff voltage we need is only available in an ant size package and needs a proper PCB to mount on, so I kinda put off searching other ways.
I haven't given up though. I want to do a lipo pack mod with the Raptor like you...
You don't need a 20A switch.
We were talking about this at breaktru's and David4500 suggested parallel wiring a DPST or DPDT switch. This would double the current rating and lower resistance of the switch. Gotta love this paralleling stuff. :laugh:
Plus, as breaktru had said, we're not...
I'm not sure why a MOSFET with the base driven by a voltage divider, including a zener diode, wouldn't work, but on thinking about it you may not get a sharp cutoff and have too much power dissipation from the MOSFET. A comparator though would provide a sharp cutoff for the MOSFET.
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