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hmmm, I've got some kandy apple red that I could use to paint the ring and button. Or were you thinking of a pair of red lips painted on the side of it? ;)

I started painting a second 4.2 and came up with a moderately interesting effect...worn blue denim. i wasn't planning on leaving it like that. Oh, and the green one is finished.

Has anybody broken one of those brass inserts when spreading them a bit? Or am I the first one to do that? Opps, it just slipped. I built 3 V3.1 and this is my second V4.2 and it was the last insert that needed to be widdened. Oh, well McMasters here I come.

No worries. Even with the body still half painted you can only see the strip with it turned so the light hits it just right. Sorry you ended up going through that hassle. And Rossum, thanks.

Ans since others are posting pics of semi-completed GDNA's... Still painting the main body. Me thinks it needs 2 or 3 (or 7) more coats of paint.

Nice innovation on that top cap. I also like the idea of not having to glue that...too bad I already got both of my prints and the top cap is done on 1 of them. But then again there is a small trick to glueing the deans connectors. I push the deans connector up just a bit and then you can get...

I think that I'd first check the positive and ground wire continuity from the 510 all the way to the board (in small steps) first. I think you were focused on the fire switch before but this sounds like a problem with the 510 connection, not the fire switch. When you start checking continuity...

So, I sanded down that ridge, but now I'm thinking that you will always see that ridge unless you sand down the body so that it's completely smooth...even after paint or cerakote (unless the finish process creates its own texture). That ridge looks like it's a more dense plastic than the rest...

Yea, that's kinda where I was. Compared to shapeways these are pretty good. You should see the bottom of my first V3.1. I'm using a wet/dry 400 and its taking some time but its smoothing out nicely. The rest of the internals and the body/top cap are pretty good.

Ok, for reference then. The left one has has a fair amount of sanding done. The right one is untouched. Glad someone said something about this. I figured it was SOP for a 3D print, based on past history.

Gseal, sent you that PM. I'll hold off sanding these until this gets resolved (one way or another).

I have this same ridge on both of the bodies that I ordered, and yes it does sand off. Just have to be patient.

Yea, that sounds right. Its just a convention that a connection to the positive side of the battery use red wire. The output can be thought of as the positive side also although somewhere I remember someone said something about it being negative? Or maybe I didn't fully comprehend exactly...

edit: on second thought...

While I'm not an expert on the V4.2....but, black wires for the output & bat+??? That could cause some confusion down the road. Third question...just 2 legs on each switch, up, down, fire...doesn't matter. Last question...yes, B+ to positive, GND to negative. You'll have to use the on board...

Damn! Just got my parts from sculpteo. Boy, did I mess up. I ordered 2 bodies and 1 set of the internals for each the small screen and large screen. When I started looking them over there were no buttons, rings or base plates. WT....? Checked out sculpteo the 3 different sets are list in...

You mean this link? http://www.livewiremods.com/GDNA-4-2-Hardware-Kit-p/kit-2.htm

Do you guys have the part number for the phillips head screw for the brass inserts? Or maybe a link? v3.1 had a hex key'd screw and I see that you're using a phillips head screw now (although a hex key'd screw will work). I have a bunch of the brass inserts but no screws. And yes, I did...

I got a note today that said the same with tracking from France. :rickroll:

The blue is back together. And I just noticed an anomally. In the right lighting it looks grey so I guess I'll just leave it alone.