Vince this is what I use, works great and very easy to use
Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length: Solder Wick: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod
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Vince this is what I use, works great and very easy to use
Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length: Solder Wick: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Has anyone tried using RIT dye to color Scuplteo plastics? Just a thought but I have used it at work to color code plastic fittings and the dye penetrates pretty deep, I have never seen it wear off and it is vibrant. Might be worth trying on some of the scrap pieces like the connector ring. I will try it on my next build.
I think someone in the peko thread did sumratio.
I got my board soldered. Need to work out orientation on the switches before going further. My enamel off ebay should come tomorrow. Hoping 3 coats is enough on this surface
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
I got my board soldered. Need to work out orientation on the switches before going further. My enamel off ebay should come tomorrow. Hoping 3 coats is enough on this surface
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
just with spray clear mist coats. no 1311 here that i could find, but the stuff i got seems to have done ok
Kataphraktos came up with a great idea to self secure the top cap mini connectors.
No no no no no no someone else is supposed to take the credit so I have something about which to complain.
Mine has it too! Good thing I read this cause I was about to glue my connectors in!
-Mark
So, the Beta Team never sleeps.....
Kataphraktos came up with a great idea to self secure the top cap mini connectors.
One of the more intensive steps in the assembly, is to get glue precisely around the mini-connectors in the the top cap internal with out making a mess. There is not a lot of room and this can be challenging. Kata came up with a simplified approach that can eliminate the glue. Basically we go to a compression fit and put a bar down the middle of the inside of the top cap that rests on the inside of the mini-connectors top surface. When the top cap is fully assembled, it would immobilize the mini-connectors. Well it worked! The only new technique is that you need to make sure your solders are a bit more precise in placement. You basically make sure that the solder points are on the top and/or outside of the mini-connector solder pins.
So for the test fit you just put the internal into the top cap after placement of the mini-connector and made sure of two things. The first is that at the 510 hole you can see the internal is flush against the top cap and has no wobble and the second is that while holding the caps tight together, you cant push the mini connect in from the out side. You can shave the bar down slightly if your solders aren't quite in the right place. If you like glue, you can still use glue as well.
Good news is that its already in the Updated v4.2
Here is a picture from Drunk_J showing great solder placement and technique and the new securement bar in the top cap. (We are calling it the "D" Leg)
The build doc has also been updated.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1t37eb2yi2k0o36/GDNA Build Doc.pdf?dl=0
I ordered new internals over the weekend (sunday)
they didn't print yet
does this mean I'll have that as well? it wasn't the "shards" that was causing the issue. it was the dean connectors and glue
oh, had to order externals to get that
well, maybe I'll get a brush and brush the glue on
well, maybe I'll get a brush and brush the glue on
I have this new feature. I've got everything all wired up mostly. My board seems to be all correct and decent solder.. I'm so close to having it done. Only problem I'm having is getting solder to stick on the brass washer in the top cap!!! Its broke loose 3 times. I even tried soldering on a SS washer. No luck... it keeps breaking free. I'm so close and this frustrated me so much last night I just put it all away
Any tips professionals?
-Mark
Any tips professionals?
-Mark
Sounds like you need to hold the soldering iron on longer, not getting the brass washer hot enough. My
put some solder on your iron so it can transfer heat better. get some solder on the washer as well as the wire you want to attach (prime or whatever) then join the two in holy matrimony
The stainless steel washer will be harder to solder to. Solder doesn't like to stick to stainless steel. You could try using more flux on the washer. Maybe even sanding the edge of the washer clean first to get the solder to stick better. Finally, you do need to get that washer hot for the solder to flow and stick.
Clean the brass with some sandpaper or a fine wire brush then tin it and tin the wire before trying to solder the two together. Also, make sure your iron tip is clean and tinned. Use something with low heat absorption like a wooden close pin to hold the brass washer and get it hot enough to melt the solder you tinned on it and while still holding the iron on it touch the pre tinned wire to the iron and washer. As soon as you see the solder from the wire flow into the solder on the washer remove the iron but hold the wire still against the washer. If you move it while the solder is solidifying it will make a "cold" solder joint that won't hold or conduct well.
Thank you all for your input. I did file the brass washer to get a clean scratchy surface, and I did also tin both the wire and washer. Alex Mundy, one thing I can say is that the tip of my solder iron is NOT clean. I guess I should take some sandpaper to it! And I did hold it there for a while but when I moved it to adjust it to the vent screw it popped off. 4 times! I will clean my iron and try this again tomorrow after work.
-Mark
Nice innovation on that top cap. I also like the idea of not having to glue that...too bad I already got both of my prints and the top cap is done on 1 of them. But then again there is a small trick to glueing the deans connectors. I push the deans connector up just a bit and then you can get some of that gel (on a toothpick) on 2 sides of the deans connector through the side window. That seems to be sufficient for my builds and there's not much mess.
BTW, Gdeal, did you ever hear anything more about those prints that had the raised strip?
BTW, Gdeal, did you ever hear anything more about those prints that had the raised strip?
Ans since others are posting pics of semi-completed GDNA's...
Still painting the main body. Me thinks it needs 2 or 3 (or 7) more coats of paint.
Still painting the main body. Me thinks it needs 2 or 3 (or 7) more coats of paint.
Whoa! Those are GORGEOUS!Ans since others are posting pics of semi-completed GDNA's...
Still painting the main body. Me thinks it needs 2 or 3 (or 7) more coats of paint.
No worries. Even with the body still half painted you can only see the strip with it turned so the light hits it just right. Sorry you ended up going through that hassle.
And Rossum, thanks.
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