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I'm not using a heatsink for the FET. The coil is a long way from the FET and resistors - so I guess the heat from the atty would not affect its operation. During testing the resistors don't appear to generate any heat. During testing it all works perfectly well (the FET might get luke warm...

My MkII version (Top Loader) uses a leaf switch in the mouthpiece - it works well, but (of course) requires a physical action to turn it on/off. I want to build a pipe that's so effortless to use it would be like the real thing. Looking forward to seeing your build.

Ooops - video now fixed.

Well - the Nano is on the shelf until I find a robust mosfet touch circuit. :( Here's a video showing how it all fits together. Note the LEDs in the bowl are already lit... because the mosfet is already on the way out. :(

Inspired picture, asdaq! :tongue: :laugh: Nice looking pipe too! Any suggestions for a fix would be most welcome. I mostly followed raidy's and scubabat's circuits for this pipe. They worked perfectly for the first few days and then the problems began. First, the atty would occasionally...

Unfortunately, this pipe works for a time and then the electronics seem to go into a heating feedback loop (gets hotter and hotter) - the only way to stop it popping is to turn the whole thing off. I've tried several different mosfets - but keep getting the same problem. The project is on hold...

I had a go at this a little while ago...

The GUV Nano sports: - CR123 battery - Fully lip-activated touch circuit - 306 LR Atty - Juice tank - Vapes-both-ends - 2x orange glow leds in the bowl - Light-weight alu frame - Faux cherry burl finish - Pocket size vaping

Blimey! Maybe this one's good enough?..

OK, point taken. Here's a better pic...

Here's a pic of my latest pipe mod - the GUV 'Nano'.

If you don't mind coating your mods with a half-mil layer of epoxy putties - I found this technique works very well for wood effect... More samples on this thread...

Here is the pot on the Mk2 version of the GUV pipe - this time using an inverted Genesis atty. The coil slots into each of the two posts. The tops of the posts also act as air intake. These posts then plug into two pins fixed into the bowl base - which hold the coil ends firmly in place and...

Mk1 and Mk2 are different. Mk1 has the battery in the bowl and Mk2 has the battery in the stem. Mk2 leaves the whole bowl free to play with. Here is the Mk2 version of the pipe with an inverted Genesis atty. This is the one I showed in the second video. I'll post more pics/description of this...

I use regular (leadless) solder. Invest in a bottle of rust remover... cheap as chips and works wonders! Dab a little onto your stainless and the solder flows on.

Here are some photos of a version of my GUV MkII 'top-loader' pipe which uses an inverted, LR bridgeless atomizer. The pot is plexiglass - allowing it to emit a diffused orange glow from an led below - and carries a shaped sponge to hold juice. The wide steel ring makes one electrical contact...

I've used an upside down atty on a version of my GUV epipe... Juice feeds down from the hole on the battery connector. I've put up more detailed pics on my This is not a pipe thread.

It kinda is in the side of the needle. Think of a flute shaped hole... (I can even play Amazing Grace on it! :2cool:)

asdaq - as marked on photo. Needle size is around 1mm diameter (ie, quite chunky) . l3oertjie - the air tube runs down through the tank and exits in the bowl. When I draw, the air comes from the bowl and is delivered to the base of the atty directly below the coil.

Here's a pic which shows the hole more clearly. The syringe tube has been flattened a bit after it exits the tank - to create more space next to the wick.