I printed a dozen of these under request and then was asked to make for a romaniac pipe ..
under the open source style of sharing it around ... heres a round version that is much the same as a square one but designed by me ..
since I have no kick to try it on .. I hope somebody who has both a...
I think it will become the norm as time goes on.
to make a VV mod you need to measure one voltage and set output accordingly, you measure the battery voltage and set duty cycle based on that.
to do a VW mod you need to do the above, then fire, monitor the output current, calculate power using...
The main VV devices at the time of provari release where ones like the buzz and 5v box mods. So yep .. out of date.
I know kiwis like the GC, we have as many cuzzi bros as the north island i reckon ;)
my missus is from Napier.
none of these devices use a linear regulator.
its all switching.
linear mods are few and far between and get hot during use as excess voltage is dissipated as heat in the electronics.
rms is identical power to a dc voltage of the same value. Has nothing to do with heating between pulses, its due to having to account for the fact that double the volts is 4 times the power.
provaris do not technically do 'PWM', a pwm mod reduces voltage by turning on and off, a provari changes...
you have to change batterys to achieve that, its certainly not just pressing a button.
its 2 mods, (using 2.2Ω) a 6W to 14W or a 10W to 22W.
it therefore will not suit anybody just changing attys .. changing from a boge SR to boge LR for eg will also change power. As the batterys run down it...
I just threw up in my mouth a little bit.
you are joking right ?
nothing like removing a solid mechanical earth and replacing it with a spindly little wire.
he used too high a resistance carto to hit to the current limit, the boost supply runs around 5.2v from the 18650, so with the 3Ω carto that was used it was never going to exceed 10W.
would have been more interesting with a 1.5Ω instead, then i expect the boost supply would drop somewhat but i...
people ARE vaping 22W with it now, full "6v" into 2Ω is just that.
thats the current problem,you need quotes on the voltage as its zmax volts, there is no useable number given by the device that can be plugged into a simple formula.
technically .. its easier on the electronics to do 20W on 2.5Ω than it is do 1W on 1.5Ω.
at least on dual batterys, its only turning a mosfet on and off, peak current is about 3A at any wattage with 2.5Ω but its switching nearly 5A into 1.5Ω.
running single battery though is then using its...
and here is the crux of all the confusion.
it already IS a 4.5 to 6.6v device, all they need to do is to make if a for real 3.0 to 6.6v and it will hit EXACTLY as hard as it does now, will cover the full range of provari voltages and then some. will out watt the provari .. at least in dual 18350...
true enough, there is no buck regulator though, single batt mode uses boost to pump it up to about 5v internally, dual battery mode uses just the battery voltage and then it PWMs it down from that.
it runs out of volts in single mode at higher wattages. the voltage from the boost also drops as...
I am only going on what I have read, so apologize if incorrect, I have 2 provaris but both v1 and had looked into getting them upgraded, so I have read a little about the upgrades, perused the charts etc..
perhaps the paper figures do not match reality but 21W is a long way above 14.5.
very...
it does with a single battery on 1.8Ω .. it will be less on a on a full battery, it will be a lot more on dual batterys.
it is what it is .. as a mod it is quite good, I liked the feel of it, sent it on to its owner now as it was only sent to me for some quick testing.
just use the numbers as in...
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