0.166ohms on a Mech Mod

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Update:

I have taken the build out and swapped to a .3 round wire build. (.289 on the G Priv 2) the new reading is what I am using now the old is the original .17 or .166.
20180720_192032.jpg


It is reading down to the 3rd decimal place. The fluke I have at work is their Fluke 117 Multimeter. About $200 on Amazon and we paired about $300 through the contract. It goes down to the 3rd decimal on both resistance and voltage. I primarily use it for checking the voltage readings on our power over ethernet switches and battery load on our unintertuped power supply systems.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O3LUEI/ref=psdcmw_14244471_t1_B00QRQHLVC

I have preordered a Drop Solo and will mess with fancier wire builds when it comes in. I still plan to get higher amp batteries, but have to find a trusted supplier first.

Thank you everyone for your input and post. I apologize for this post getting out of hand.
 
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Baditude

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I still plan to get higher amp batteries, but have to find a trusted supplier first.
That's easy enough.

North America
www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
UK
myepack.co.uk
www.batteriesplus.co.uk
www.fogstar.co.uk
www.nkon.nl
Welcome to Ecolux. The UK's Battery and accessory specialists. Wide range of authentic leading brands in stock ready for immediate dispatch.

Personally, RTD Vapor has been my first choice for over 6 years. When they didn't have the specific battery I wanted, I got it from IMRBatteries.
 
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Thank you for the links!

I'll take a look and see about ordering some. I might have to wait till it cools off down here. I always worry about the delivery of electronics in the heat down here. It hit 107 down here in Austin today and in a hot truck that like 140.

Thanks again.
 

suprtrkr

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Update:

I have taken the build out and swapped to a .3 round wire build. (.289 on the G Priv 2) the new reading is what I am using now the old is the original .17 or .166.
View attachment 755669

It is reading down to the 3rd decimal place. The fluke I have at work is their Fluke 117 Multimeter. About $200 on Amazon and we paired about $300 through the contract. It goes down to the 3rd decimal on both resistance and voltage. I primarily use it for checking the voltage readings on our power over ethernet switches and battery load on our unintertuped power supply systems.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O3LUEI/ref=psdcmw_14244471_t1_B00QRQHLVC

I have preordered a Drop Solo and will mess with fancier wire builds when it comes in. I still plan to get higher amp batteries, but have to find a trusted supplier first.

Thank you everyone for your input and post. I apologize for this post getting out of hand.
You'll find round wire coils will serve you better on a one battery tube. Faster ramp time and lower heated mass adds up to more vape drags per battery charge. Good choice. Don't be worried about asking more questions. We're here to help.
 

dripster

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To those who ask, according to Mooch we should always recommend to stay at or below the CDR of the battery you're using, and the CDR can be found in Mooch's battery ratings tables as well as on his battery test pages so, because you asked, and because I agree in full with Mooch's stance on this, that's exactly what I'll recommend. (To those who don't ask, I recommend absolutely nothing whatsoever even if they'd torture me. :matrix:)

On a single battery mech mod, this translates to the following: at or above .20 ohms with a 20A battery, at or above .17 ohms with a 25A battery, at or above .14 ohms with a 30A battery, and at or above .12 ohms with a 35A battery. For now, the Samsung 30T is the only available battery that has a CDR of 35A, but it is a 21700 battery so if you're looking for an 18650 the highest CDR possible right now is 30A, and, right now the best available 18650 that does have a CDR of 30A is the Samsung 20S.
 
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