.08 dual parallel build and my mods getting super hot

Status
Not open for further replies.

NoobNoob92

New Member
Aug 20, 2019
2
3
This is the photo of my build
 

Attachments

  • 8F4039BF-1BE9-4F5D-AC86-8E83EECA0BE7.jpeg
    8F4039BF-1BE9-4F5D-AC86-8E83EECA0BE7.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 112

bombastinator

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 12, 2010
13,293
26,507
MN USA
If I’m right that won’t help.
The problem is where the coils are in the atty.

There are several reasons why an atty could get hot. They mostly involve heat transfer from the coil to the atty though. It looks to me like at least 1 coil is actually touching the side. Possibly both. You want those coils in the center not on the sides.

Take both coils out along with the wick, toss the wick, reposition them so each central leg is in the opposite side from where you put it, put them back and screw them down, then take your coil tool insert it into the coil and bend the coils a bit so they’re more centered. Then rewick and try it.
 

vapdivrr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
9,966
19,932
61
sarasota,fl
I agree, it looks like part of the coil can be almost touching the top cap once it goes on and so very close to post. This can be transferring heat to the tank. Are you positioning them there because that's where they line up with the af holes? What battery you running?
 

HigherStateD

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 11, 2019
2,250
5,277
Phoenixville, PA, U.S. of A.
One thing I didn't realize when I started building for >100W is that heat dissipation becomes a significant limiting factor. Do they make any RDAs with cooling fins?
Most cooling fins I've seen are on MTL RDAs. It would defeat the purpose of Max air on a build that required it, to air cool something other than the coil itself. If the build is too big for the atty, get a bigger atty, or change the build. That looks like a a T post center positive, and the legs are in the wrong hole to me, as stated by @bombastinator above.

OP. What battery, and what coil metal?
 
  • Like
Reactions: stols001

Hawise

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 25, 2013
1,660
4,271
AB, Canada
i just built a basic dual parallel build. 2 coils and it reads at a .08 I’m using a tugboat mech mod and when I vape on my build it gets hella hot. Should I remove a coil?

Along with the other comments, I think you're seriously overtaxing your battery. Is the Tugboat a single 18650 mech? A 0.08 ohm coil on a single cell mech draws 52 amps, which is well beyond the capacity of any 18650 that exists.

If I'm right about the Tugboat, it would be best to hold off on the mech mods until you're clear on Ohm's law and how mechs work. A good place to start your research is this blog: (8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum.
 

Topwater Elvis

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Dec 26, 2012
7,116
16,502
Texas
Yes, you should stop using it and remove the coils & start over at a 'safe' resistance.
Doesn't matter what your build looks like, or what wire type you're using or which delivery device or battery.

The tugboat mech is a single 18650 cell mechanical.

4.2v / .08Ω = 52.5a
Even when your battery is drained down to 3.2v
3.2v / .08Ω = 40a

There is no 18650 cell that can support that amp demand safely.
Heat is a warning sign, hot is never good, super or hella hot is beyond dangerous.

Good thing you asked, could become dangerous in the blink of an eye.
 
Last edited:

HigherStateD

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 11, 2019
2,250
5,277
Phoenixville, PA, U.S. of A.
Yes, you should stop using it and remove the coils & start over at a 'safe' resistance.
Doesn't matter what your build looks like, or what wire type you using or which delivery device or battery.

The tugboat mech is a single 18650 cell mechanical.

4.2v / .08Ω = 52.5a
Even when your battery is drained down to 3.2v
3.2v / .08Ω = 40a

There is no 18650 cell that can support that amp demand safely.

Good thing you asked, could become dangerous in the blink of an eye.
If it was an 18650, and fired even a few times, I'd consider every cell used to now be damaged and should be considered to be reduced CDR also, at best. Retirement to a flashlight would be best.
 

Baditude

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Apr 8, 2012
30,394
73,076
71
Ridgeway, Ohio
upload_2019-8-20_18-38-57.png

:danger: Top coil is over reaching its boundary and could be touching the RDA's top cap, creating heat and the potential for a hard short for the battery. That makes battery and mech mod go BOOM. Strike one.

:danger: A 0.08 ohm coil on a single cell mech draws 52 amps, which is well beyond the capacity of any 18650 that exists. This can also create heat and make battery and mech mod go BOOM. Strike two.

:danger: Not understanding Ohm's Law and battery amp limits when using a mech mod. Three strikes and you're out.

Learn how to use an Ohm's Law calculator when building coils, know your battery's continuous discharge amp limit, and what the amp draw your coil will be pulling from the battery.
:rules: The coil's amp draw should never exceed the battery's amp limit.

You're playing with fire, son. :evil: Kudos for seeking assistance! The life saved could be your own.
upload_2017-12-19_16-22-46-jpeg.706937


Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Out of curiousity, specifically what battery (make and model) are you using?
 
Last edited:

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,611
1
84,697
So-Cal
i just built a basic dual parallel build. 2 coils and it reads at a .08 I’m using a tugboat mech mod and when I vape on my build it gets hella hot. Should I remove a coil?

If you use a Mech Mod, then you Have To Be Able to Calculate How Many Amps you are Going to Force Your Battery(s) to Provide.

So How Many Amps are You Forcing Your Battery(s) to Provide?

You Also Need to Know How Many Amps Your Battery(s) can Constantly Deliver.

So How Many Amps Can Your Battery(s) can Constantly Deliver?

If you Can't Answer Either One of these Questions, then put the Mech away for Now, and get Yourself a Nice Regulated Mod.
 

bombastinator

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 12, 2010
13,293
26,507
MN USA
Yes, you should stop using it and remove the coils & start over at a 'safe' resistance.
Doesn't matter what your build looks like, or what wire type you're using or which delivery device or battery.

The tugboat mech is a single 18650 cell mechanical.

4.2v / .08Ω = 52.5a
Even when your battery is drained down to 3.2v
3.2v / .08Ω = 40a

There is no 18650 cell that can support that amp demand safely.
Heat is a warning sign, hot is never good, super or hella hot is beyond dangerous.

Good thing you asked, could become dangerous in the blink of an eye.
Ah. Point. Yes. I missed he was trying this on a mech. I support this over my advice. Or get a two battery VV mod to do this on and implement what I said.
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,725
14,411
Hollywood (Beach), FL

Great advice overall. Parallels are not a toy and def can go way hot even when well built with heat expansion separating contact segments [or leads].

Just sayin' folks. Strained twisted-lead Kanthal build >.175Ω. Extreme vapor density and delightful volume.

Proper tools, method and steam-engine.com required.

Good luck. :)

 
Last edited:

NealBJr

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
2,469
3,732
Lawrenceville, Ga.
This is the photo of my build

Seems like you haven't visited to follow up on any of these answers since you've posted it. I hope your battery hasn't vented by now.

@Baditude said everything I would've said. The coils look too close to the edge and are probably touching the top cap, the ohms are WAY too low to be considered safe for a single battery mech mod and the photo you provided looks like you have it on a single battery mech mod. To run a coil that low, you would need a dual parallel battery mech mod, or at least get a regulated mod with multiple batteries.

The only other thing I can add, is the Tugboat RDA ships with a fairly small air hole. It's default would be way too small for a build that low. If you didn't drill it larger, it would get super hot for that build.

If you wish to continue with a hot build, or that build, is 1) put it on a different mod, and 2) move those coils closer to the center with it being far enough away from the edge for proper airflow and to prevent it shorting on the top cap, and 3) drill the air holes larger if it hasn't been drilled out already.

My personal recommendation is to not build below .2 ohms for a single battery mod. .2 should be the limit if you have a single battery mod for safety. Even those that believe in pulse ratings (which I do not) say that do not build below .14 ohms....and that's all assuming you have good batteries. Even at .2 ohms, it should get fairly hot, and you might have to drill out the airholes if it is. With the default airhole size, probably a .3 or .4 ohm build would be my preference.

I hope you visit again to see this advice. Good luck and vape safe.
 

NealBJr

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
2,469
3,732
Lawrenceville, Ga.
One thing I didn't realize when I started building for >100W is that heat dissipation becomes a significant limiting factor. Do they make any RDAs with cooling fins?

I know they make a heat sink that goes between the atomizers and the mods.

1923808-3.jpg


$1.37 Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Even though it was designed for heat dissipation, I use it as a mod protector for my RTAs to keep the juice from getting into the 510. I must own at least 10 of them. They come in different sizes and colors as well.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread