150w IPV3? Sigelei 100w? Ok I'm Lost...

[SparkyMob]

Hi all,

I stumbled across another thread that discussed the idea that 150 watts was a 'little' extreme...and a youtube video of a guy lighting a +/- 2in flame running his IPV at 150 watts, and decided to sign up and ask the experts.


What is the deal here?? I get that variable voltage is extremely useful, but don't quite understand yet how changing the voltage or any of these 'extra' settings affect my vape. I get that your battery has limitations, and that affects whether you are able to build parallels, or dual coil builds, or the number of coils in any particular build, but that's about the extent of my knowledge. I am running a Mechanical clone Nemesis mod (couldn't tell you the stats - no reader gauge) but wrapped 26 gauge kanthal about 6-7 times in a parallel build on a 3.7v/40amp battery and a doge RDA. I am enjoying the cooler vape, but starting to look to dig a little deeper at all the different gears/builds.

I am looking online at IPV3 150w (found some for 100$) and the sigelei 100w (found some for about the same price). Should I go for one over the other? What other notable mentions am I missing? I don't particularly want to spend an arm and a leg, and would like to just keep my RDA on my new VV device (may not necessarily be a box mod).

Sorry for the wall of text - I'll keep scouring the forums - any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[sketchness]

You will get scolded for not using a meter. Very dangerous. Seriously that could blow up in your hand near your face.

What is your actual question. The upper wattage limits of the 100w or 150w devices are to be able to fire a large hunk of 22\24 gauge wire effectively. a 9 wrap dual 24 gauge is a lot of metal to warm up.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum SparkyMob. Glad to have you here!

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[SparkyMob]

I guess my hidden question is really how do I tackle the world of adjustable voltages? I know that I will not be satisfied in the long term with a standard mech mod because of the lack of control - but both the above mentioned IPV and Sigelei products mentioned all sound the same to me. why choose 1 variable voltage box mod over another? I am not coming from analogs, so the need for nic isn't really there (running 6mg or so atm, rarely 12mg).

I will shut my yap and take a look at the other threads that have been posted above.

 

[Ryedan]

I stumbled across another thread that discussed the idea that 150 watts was a 'little' extreme...and a youtube video of a guy lighting a +/- 2in flame running his IPV at 150 watts, and decided to sign up and ask the experts.

What is the deal here?? I get that variable voltage is extremely useful, but don't quite understand yet how changing the voltage or any of these 'extra' settings affect my vape.

Hi SparkyMob and welcome to ECF. Increasing the voltage or watts creates more power in your atomizer which creates more heat. Think of it like putting a pot of water on the stove, getting it to a boil and then deciding what number to turn the dial to. If you set it high you get a fast boil and a lot of steam. Low and you get a slow boil and less steam or no boil at all.

Note that the temperature of the water remains at 212 deg as long as there is water in the pot and it's boiling. Evaporate all the water and the pot gets really hot, fast. In vaping as long as you keep the coil wet you're essentially boiling juice and the analogy holds. Once the coil gets dry temps go up fast, you burn juice (unlike the water analogy) and inhale nasty chemicals that result from that burn.

I get that your battery has limitations, and that affects whether you are able to build parallels, or dual coil builds, or the number of coils in any particular build, but that's about the extent of my knowledge. I am running a Mechanical clone Nemesis mod (couldn't tell you the stats - no reader gauge) but wrapped 26 gauge kanthal about 6-7 times in a parallel build on a 3.7v/40amp battery and a Doge RDA. I am enjoying the cooler vape, but starting to look to dig a little deeper at all the different gears/builds.

One Stop Reference Shop For New and Experienced Vapers is a great list of references for information on vaping topics. I suggest you read Baditude's battery blogs and anything on Ohm's law and how it applies to vaping.

Essentially, the power you set your mod to draws current (amps) from the battery and if the battery can not produce those amps without heating up it can become dangerous. Choosing the right batteries almost eliminates the chance of a battery exploding on you.

I am looking online at IPV3 150w (found some for 100$) and the Sigelei 100w (found some for about the same price). Should I go for one over the other? What other notable mentions am I missing? I don't particularly want to spend an arm and a leg, and would like to just keep my RDA on my new VV device (may not necessarily be a box mod).

I suggest you slow down a bit and do some research before vaping at 50 plus watts. You can get one heck of a good vape at 15-20 watts. The vast majority of vapers vape at under 10 watts. I'm typically around 25-30 watts.

The issues with high power vaping are not just battery safety. If you burn juice you'll be inhaling chemicals that are not good for us. If you burn wicking material and inhale that it's also not good. The more experience you get under your belt at lower watts the safer you'll be at higher power.

 

[towelie]

What's this 40A battery you speak of? I thought it nearly impossible to make one over 20A..........

 

[sketchness]

At the end of the day IPV vs Sigelei is similar to Ford versus Chevy. Except that the IPV puts out 150. THat will change shortly when a newer 150w sigelei comes out. Really after that it is personal preference and which manufacturer you like better. If you are going to be using the devices under 100 watts most often there isn't much difference.

 

[drunkenbatman]

I guess my hidden question is really how do I tackle the world of adjustable voltages? I know that I will not be satisfied in the long term with a standard mech mod because of the lack of control - but both the above mentioned IPV and Sigelei products mentioned all sound the same to me. why choose 1 variable voltage box mod over another? I am not coming from analogs, so the need for nic isn't really there (running 6mg or so atm, rarely 12mg).

First of all, lots of good info above -- but I think I get what you're after, or rather confused about. 7 wraps of 26gauge gives you ~0.9ohm coil; since you're running two, that gets halved to around ~0.45ohm as far as the battery is concerned and what amps/wattage is being drawn. Depending on the drip tip and wicking and other stuff it could feel hot or cool.

If you're looking for a VV/VW model that would allow you to reach the exact same, most 50w boxes should be fine and can generally handle things down to 0.2-0.3 ohm. I just got done trying to write this up simply, but basically a 150w box would let you build a 0.1ohm coil which is wax-wings territory.