I made a video comparing various 18650 batteries, it's called "18650 Battery Wars." You can view the video here, hope you enjoy it!
YouTube - 18650 Battery Wars!
-Russ
YouTube - 18650 Battery Wars!
-Russ
18650 Battery Wars
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Now I know why I love my AW 18650 batts. They may be in a plain Jane red wrapper but they bring it.
I knew it, I knew it, lol.............nice put up, or shut up video....can't dispute hard evidence......I know this is not why you did it........well maybe a little.........BOO-YA........nice INFORMATIVE video......
I have been an avid supporter if aw batteries for awhile now. This is a great test but it only shows half the greatness of them. The other side is the amps they can sustain on output which as I understand is what the imr high drains are really all about. Just like we need 2amp to push our passthroughs we need it in our batteries as well. Some of the cheaper batteries barely put out a half to full 1 amp.
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Yep...I load my Buzz with AW ICR123's and they outwork my UltraFire 16340's EVERY time....by hours.
Yep...I load my Buzz with AW ICR123's and they outwork my UltraFire 16340's EVERY time....by hours.
I have been buying AW's for all my Mods. I have tried many batts but no matter what size the aw just outperforms.
Nice video, I saw it last night. Have you ever tested Redilast 18650's? That's what I'm using now.
I agree that this is a great, informative video. The first indication was the Fluke DMM and Super T drip whistle tip. Obvisiously this guy is good! Let me apologize in advance but I'm an electrical engineer and spent about 10 years on battery systems so...
The voltage of a freshly charged battery is one thing, how the voltage curve looks as it discharges is another. One cannot assume that the battery with the highest full charge voltage will have the highest voltage at half charge. Said another way, if the trustfire is at 3.6 volts after 50 hits and the AW is at 3.3V, you might feel differently about your battery choice. Can you measure battery voltage again after 50 2-second hits on the atty?
The voltage of a freshly charged battery is one thing, how the voltage curve looks as it discharges is another. One cannot assume that the battery with the highest full charge voltage will have the highest voltage at half charge. Said another way, if the trustfire is at 3.6 volts after 50 hits and the AW is at 3.3V, you might feel differently about your battery choice. Can you measure battery voltage again after 50 2-second hits on the atty?
redilast uses the same panasonic cells as the AW blacks which are Lithium Cobalt. The plain AW reds are an IMR high drain lithium manganese chemistry with much higher C rates rates then cobalt like 10C vs 2C or there about.
You might not fully understand how C rates work
Here is simplified example
10C battery 300mAh - CAN discharge up to 3Amps per pull, but using it at that rate it will fully discharge in 6 vaping minutes
1C battery 300mAh - CAN discharge up to 300mAh per pull, but using it at that rate it will fully discharge in 60 vaping minutes
In other words we want the C rating somewhere in the middle of the two extremes.
We all know that Aw puts out a good battery, especially their IMR's, but the big question is, is it all that necessary in order to have an enjoyable vape?
Chemistry of the battery not withstanding, I prefer to use bats with a protection chip when that protection is not provided by the PV.
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Perhaps a little oversimplified and therefore a little misleading. - Factors to consider for clarification:
1: No one takes a 6 minute or 60 minute pull. A 10c batt won't require swapping out 10 times per hour. It would be easy for people without understanding of electricity to read the example that way. Clarification necessary would be to include that if you take 5 second pulls, you should get 72 pulls... but to keep it simple, I can agree that leaving out drain curve is good enough and that's where we have to stop to not get in too deep.
2: A 1.5 ohm resistor in a circuit being fed 4.1v will draw 2.75 amps to produce about 11 watts. If the source can not discharge at least 2.75 amps, it can not feed 4.1v to a circuit with a 1.5 ohm resistor. Any decrease in amps results in a decrease in volts that can flow through the circuit. A decrease in volts results in a decrease in watts.
AW IMR 18650s are all I use now ever since I got my first Provari about seven months ago. The batteries are amazing
I see that you also made a part II. - In fact, since you mentioned BasilRay as your inspiration and he is a fan of the MNKE batts, I was really happy to see you did a part II to include MNKE.
I've done many similar load tests with a lot of different batteries. Your conclusion about the BDL is the same as mine. I ended up using the BDL IMR 18650 I bought in a flashlight. It just wasn't suitable for use in a PV. - I will give BDL just a little bit of credit, though. I have 2 pairs of BDL 18350 IMR 800 mah and a pair of AW 18350 IMR 700 mah. The BDLs actually outshine the AWs at peak, and they vape considerably longer between charges. Their 800 mah rating seems pretty accurate at least by comparison.
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