2 newbie questions about mech mods

[genevieve]

I'm saving up money to eventually buy a high end mech mod. Just started rebuilding and LOVE it, which is why I made the (somewhat) hard decision that my next upgrade won't be a Provari (like I planned). There's been 2 terms thrown around that I don't know, so someone help me out...
1- what is a hybrid? My guess was a mood that can interchange an atty? Am I way off?
2- what is the "*" for?....example: in the classifieds, I've seen someone looking for "not a * Caravela"

Thanks for the help guys

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Baditude]

I made the (somewhat) hard decision that my next upgrade won't be a Provari (like I planned).

You should get the Provari. Ya shoulda never shared the above.

Curious, why a mech mod?

• You can still put an RBA/RDA on a Provari just fine, just can't go below 1 ohm.
• You'll be able to adjust your voltage to taste; you can't do that on a mech.
• A Provari will give you the same voltage that you set from the beginning of a battery until the end; you won't get that with a mech - continual voltage drop from 4.2v to 3.4v will cause your vape to be strong at the beginning and it will be gradually downhill thereafter.
• Provari has it's own ohm and battery voltage meters built-in; you'll need a multimeter with the mech.
• Provari will have built-in protective circuitry to block hard shorts; unless you use a Kick or a Vape Safe Fuse in a mech you will be vulnerable to hard shorts.

Not like I'm trying to talk you out of a mech.....

I assume you are getting a mech for an RBA. Unless you plan to use sub-ohm coils, you don't need a mech. When I got my first RBA I had all intents to set it up for my Altsmoke Silver Bullet. Guess what, I get a better vape with it on the Provari. Currently using 2 AGA-T2's with 2.0 ohm coils on two Provari's.



Did you ask some questions about a...what?

 

[Zak Rabbit]

A hybrid is a battery mod (regulated/electronic/mechanical) that has the atty built-in as a single unit.
As for the other term, I can only guess they're either asking for a real Caravela (as opposed to a clone) or they're asking for the clone and not the real thing. Someone will correct me on that one.

 

[steelseth]

Petro the creator of the Caravela makes replacement parts for owners of the original numbered mods.
The replacement parts have a * next to the serial number.
If let say you own a Caravela with serial number 111 you can send your ring with your serial to Petro to make you new parts.
If you own a Caravela with serial number *111 Petro will not make any new spare parts for you as you are not the owner of the original just owner of a set of spare parts.

 

[90quattrocoupe]

I am using a RSST with 7 wraps of 28 Kanthal on a double up 3mm silica, on my Provari. It is a 1.32 ohm coil. Vapes real smooth on the Provari. Works on it better than my Atmizoo Roller.

Buy the Provari, it offer most versatility, than any Mech. Carto tanks, BCC tanks, RBAs, RDAs, etc.

Greg W.

 

[InTheShade]

I'll add to the voice that you don't need a mech to vape an RBA / RDA. I use a lowly Vamo for my Igo-l and it vapes absolutely fine.

In fact I prefer to use the RDA on my vamo than on my mech as I can fine tune the voltage to the juice I am vaping.

If you really still want to go down the mech route, you can do for a few dollars. I have a k100 that I picked up for $20 - so you can spend a little and try it out and see if it gives you that vape you need without risking hundreds.

 

[Ryedan]

I'm saving up money to eventually buy a high end mech mod. Just started rebuilding and LOVE it, which is why I made the (somewhat) hard decision that my next upgrade won't be a Provari (like I planned). There's been 2 terms thrown around that I don't know, so someone help me out...
1- what is a hybrid? My guess was a mood that can interchange an atty? Am I way off?
2- what is the "*" for?....example: in the classifieds, I've seen someone looking for "not a * Caravela"

Thanks for the help guys

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

Well, #2 has already been answered.

I didn't know the answer to #1 but I've been wondering myself so I dug.

See Uma's post in this thread. It's the sixth one in. I suspect that is the right answer. If it is, now we both know

 

[rogergendron1]

With a mech you can adjust your wattage all the way up to where ever your battery can handle ....
I vape between 4.2 volts fresh charge down to 3.7 at 3.6 volts I swap batterys . I like to vape at around 17 to 15 watts with a .8 to 1 ohm coil, so unless your provari has a dna 20 chip in it its useless to me. As will almost every vv and vw mod around side for the dna chip . The only way to get that much true power is from a unregulated mechanical and a good battery . In fact with a good 20 aml bat you could vape at 20plus watts .

And as for the vape quality deminishing as the voltage drops ..... At the higher wattages you hardly notice it at all if you even can . To me there is barley I mean barley a differance between fresh charge and 3.7 volts but at 3.6 volts hours of vaping later I start to notice a slight change so guess what .... I swap batterys lol

Yes if you only care to vape standard res coils and do not like high wattages then get a provari . But if you find u like to vape at 15 _ 20 watts than your provari becomes useless . And how will you ever know if you like to vape at 17 or 18 watts if you dont have a device that can provide that kind of raw power ?

Get an inexpencive clone and try out vaping at higher watages before you go buy some high end mech if you find you dont like vaping a .8ohm coil out of a genny or dripper than you are not out a lot of money and can still get that provari, but if you find that you do like high wat vaping as I do than you can make the dive into the unregulated power of mechanicals. sub ohm and high wat/power vaping the provari can not provide .

There is another option on the table here to . The dna 20, it can do sub ohms and is vw and has all the regulated power you could ever want and awsome informitive display that puts the provari childish 2bit display to bed. You can get a sick dna 20 mod for around the same cost as the provari

 

[rogergendron1]

Oh and a hybrid is a mechanical mod with the rbs or rda built into the batery tube, this means there is no 510 conector and the atty that is built into it is the only one you use . This is good because they have verry low voltage drop and deliver more power also they look nicer and most people who use mechs use one rba with one mod and run them like that always, the hybrid offers that one peice system wit nb less voltage drop and a cleaner finish with les lines making it more aesthetic. They are more prone to abuse as there is no week point like the 510 conector to strip out or fail .

The second question idk

People say mechs are only a 3.7 volt mod . But that would be sort of a false statment, because even though they are only 3.7 volts they are capable of fully adjustabe wattage . All you have to do is build a coil at the right ohms to get the desired wattage for the voltage of your battery .

With a mech I can vape from 1 watt all the way up to 20 watts and even higher if I had a better battery.
all I have to do is wrap the right ohm coil. So as long as you know a bit about coil making your mech becomes a verry verry powerfull and capable variable watt device .

 

[Ryedan]

There is another option on the table here to . The dna 20, it can do sub ohms and is vw and has all the regulated power you could ever want and awsome informitive display that puts the provari childish 2bit display to bed. You can get a sick dna 20 mod for around the same cost as the provari

I thought so too when I first saw it, but the datasheet on this page for the DNA20 says 1.0 ohm minimum. I suspect it may go down a bit further than that, but true sub-ohm is probably not possible for it.

It would have been really, really nice though

 

[rogergendron1]

My buddys nes dna mod runs .8 ohm coils all day ..... ? Probably says 1 ohm min for saftey and liability reasons. It reads and vapes his trident dual coil .8 ohm setup just fine. I dont know if he has built any lower ohm coils on it or not but I will have to ask about this tomorow . I posted that cause he vapes at 1 ohm around there I gues. Little lower little hibher and it seems to be working good for him so far .

That little thing is frigging powerfull !

 

[Gary Mcroy]

All you need to do is buy a kick with your mech and you can have the advantages mostly of a varible wattage mod. Set it to whatever you want and youll get that same power the hole life of the battery. Plus you get the short protection. Although they dont work so well with sub ohm coils, but honestly its good to have both. You really want a vv/vw and a mech. I use my rba's mostly on mechs and I def. like to have the option of using sub-ohm coils. I also like to have a vv around. Id get both. There simple, problem solved onto save another thread

 

[genevieve]

You should get the Provari. Ya shoulda never shared the above.

Curious, why a mech mod?

• You can still put an RBA/RDA on a Provari just fine, just can't go below 1 ohm.
• You'll be able to adjust your voltage to taste; you can't do that on a mech.
• A Provari will give you the same voltage that you set from the beginning of a battery until the end; you won't get that with a mech - continual voltage drop from 4.2v to 3.4v will cause your vape to be strong at the beginning and it will be gradually downhill thereafter.
• Provari has it's own ohm and battery voltage meters built-in; you'll need a multimeter with the mech.
• Provari will have built-in protective circuitry to block hard shorts; unless you use a Kick or a Vape Safe Fuse in a mech you will be vulnerable to hard shorts.

Not like I'm trying to talk you out of a mech.....

I assume you are getting a mech for an RBA. Unless you plan to use sub-ohm coils, you don't need a mech. When I got my first RBA I had all intents to set it up for my Altsmoke Silver Bullet. Guess what, I get a better vape with it on the Provari. Currently using 2 AGA-T2's with 2.0 ohm coils on two Provari's.

View attachment 248154

Did you ask some questions about a...what?

k, i definitely should've added that i have a vamo 2. Or else, yes i would surely see the need to have a vv/vw device. that being said, i do intend to purchase a provari (just later down the line). how could i not?

 

[genevieve]

wow, so i was right? i'm finally catching on to all the lingo

 

[genevieve]

With a mech you can adjust your wattage all the way up to where ever your battery can handle ....
I vape between 4.2 volts fresh charge down to 3.7 at 3.6 volts I swap batterys . I like to vape at around 17 to 15 watts with a .8 to 1 ohm coil, so unless your provari has a dna 20 chip in it its useless to me. As will almost every vv and vw mod around side for the dna chip . The only way to get that much true power is from a unregulated mechanical and a good battery . In fact with a good 20 aml bat you could vape at 20plus watts .

And as for the vape quality deminishing as the voltage drops ..... At the higher wattages you hardly notice it at all if you even can . To me there is barley I mean barley a differance between fresh charge and 3.7 volts but at 3.6 volts hours of vaping later I start to notice a slight change so guess what .... I swap batterys lol

Yes if you only care to vape standard res coils and do not like high wattages then get a provari . But if you find u like to vape at 15 _ 20 watts than your provari becomes useless . And how will you ever know if you like to vape at 17 or 18 watts if you dont have a device that can provide that kind of raw power ?

Get an inexpencive clone and try out vaping at higher watages before you go buy some high end mech if you find you dont like vaping a .8ohm coil out of a genny or dripper than you are not out a lot of money and can still get that provari, but if you find that you do like high wat vaping as I do than you can make the dive into the unregulated power of mechanicals. sub ohm and high wat/power vaping the provari can not provide .

There is another option on the table here to . The dna 20, it can do sub ohms and is vw and has all the regulated power you could ever want and awsome informitive display that puts the provari childish 2bit display to bed. You can get a sick dna 20 mod for around the same cost as the provari

i appreciate your input. the above replies were starting to make me feel like i was the only one cravng a mech mod

 

[MarKa]

ProVaris are awesome, but some people in this thread are really hyping them up. They are not the best thing ever to happen to vaping.
However, now you know the pros and cons of both. (The pros of the ProVari a little bit more)

While subohm vaping seems to be highly frowned upon in the ECF community, I guarantee you that you will want to try it eventually. Pick up a Sony or MNKE battery with a high amp limit and you're good to go. MNKE 650 batteries can handle up to 20amps, some Sonys up to 30. This will handle basically anything you throw at them (provided you play it safe, like knowing when to change them out, how to avoid a short, etc)

I do agree that the ProVari is probably the best PV, but I'll always prefer a good ol' mech/rda. If I were you, I'd get 2 or 3 of the batteries I mentioned along with an rda that is easy to dual coil. Build a 2/3 wrap with 28guage and you'll be at about .3ohms. Drill the holes out to match your preference for taste/TH/vapor generation. Yeah, .3ohms is really low, but it generates about 14 amps which is well under the MNKEs amp cap.

Let me reiterate that you should only do this provided you know the warning signs of a battery about to vent (even though MNKEs are considered safe-chemistry, they are not immune) and when to change out your battery.

To me the whole PV vs. mech argument sounds a lot like Mac vs. PC. PVs (like Macs) are user-friendly with their displays and difficult for the average person to break. This is because the dna chip is there to ensure an ohm limit and protect the battery. Mechs, however, offer complete control over the mechanics of a vape to the "advanced" user (similar to PCs). Sure, there are some more issues down the line if you don't know what you're doing. But as long as you do, you have complete freedom to build how you want.

All that being said, PVs are definitely better for cartos/clearos because you are able to set the voltage higher and deliver a constant voltage, whereas mechs are limited in that respect to the capabilities of the battery alone. This is an obvious benefit of PVs because most cartos/clearos you buy have a relatively high resistance.

Not trying to diss the ProVari, I agree its a great PV. Just saying that the ProVari isn't flawless and there are benfits to mech mods. I didn't even mention mech mod internals and the customization involved there.

 

[NicoHolic]

Let's see if this mech thread follows the ECF Pattern... Mech thread starts... Provari boys jump in saying if you can't do it with a Provari it's not worth doing... VAMO boys jump in and say a Provari is overpriced and you can get six VAMOs for the price of a Provari... Provari vs VAMO argument ensues... mechs are forgotten until at some point dr last_word jumps in and asserts mechs are obsolete and high-voltage vaping is better than high current vaping. Somebody disputes that and the thread devolves into a ping pong match.

 

[Zak Rabbit]

I will say this, we're posting in the New Members Forum. The OP has indicated that they are new... I started with an Ego, went to a SMOK V-Maxx. I loved it, it was great...for a few months. I replaced it with, you guessed it, a Provari. I am by no means a fanboi, I have nothing against the Vamo. The thing is, I now have several mechanicals, and a little time rebuilding atty's under my belt, but the Provari is always there... I may not use it as much now, but it's been MY fallback when my Poldiac, Nemesis, or even Semovar are just no "doing it" for me.
As a step up, I would recommend a Provari over a mechanical until you have spent some time rebuilding so that you get a baseline for what atomizer, coil, wick setup you like and that you have something to "fall back on" if things go sideways. That being said, you could get a Vamo and a nice rebuildable atty and go from there. I'd liken it to learning to ride a bike, then starting on a small motorcycle, then stepping up to a superbike. Can you go straight to the superbike? sure, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[MarKa]

I'd liken it to learning to ride a bike, then starting on a small motorcycle, then stepping up to a superbike. Can you go straight to the superbike? sure, but I wouldn't recommend it.

But then why spend money on the motorcycle when you know you're gonna buy a superbike anyways?

That analogy doesn't quite work out because it implies a certain order in the learning process. (If a bike is an eGo, a motorcycle is an APV, and a mech is the superbike that is.) Going from an eGo to an APV isn't that much of a jump. You just basically go from a twist mechanism to an LED screen to control VV/VW. Going from an APV to a mech requires a bit more research. Because then you actually have to start caring about which battery you are going to use, as well as how to setup your atomizer so your vape doesn't turn into a hand grenade. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you don't necessarily need to purchase an APV in order to learn how to use a mech mod properly.

I may not use it as much now, but it's been MY fallback when my Poldiac, Nemesis, or even Semovar are just no "doing it" for me.

I completely agree that OP should have a fallback anyways. Learning to build is a long process of trial-and-error. Mostly errors. My point is that a ProVari is a VERY expensive "fallback."

I also feel like if you spent a little more time perfecting your builds, you wouldn't even need a fallback. Get your RDA/gennys just right and that's all you need Unless you prefer otherwise, then its all up to personal opinion.

 

[Zak Rabbit]

But then why spend money on the motorcycle when you know you're gonna buy a superbike anyways?

That's kind of my point...It may seem less expensive, but what happens when you screw up? I had a head start because of R/C cars, so I know about venting batteries and how not to induce that...
With an apv (we'll skip the Provari because I missed the part where he's not going to get one) like a Vamo, you are being introduced to batteries, the charger and how different batteries last, where to get them, and it gets you as a worst case scenario a coil ohm meter.
You're correct, it is all personal preference and what works best for you, what you're comfortable with. I, personally, just have a hard time recommending a mechanical to someone in the New Members Forum...