3.6 volt batteries vs. 3.7 volt batteries (18650's)
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I would think it wouldn't matter that much, unless you gonna try sub-ohming. And if so make sure you use the specs of the battery you chose. Also there is something about pansonic and I believe Efest too about not being what they say on the outside. I'm sure someone with better information will get you on the right track.
The Panasonic 3400 mah batteries are not IMR (Li-Mn) or IMR/Hybrid, high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries. Unless you manufacturer recommends them they should not be used in mods. The Efest 35A batteries are only 20A continuous (not 35A as labeled).
The amp of the battery is more important than the mah (especially if you are going to sub-ohm).
The below links are from Baditude (our resident battery/safety expert):
1. Battery Basics for Mods
- choose the safest and right battery for your applications here. Includes a list of name brand, high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries with mAh & amp ratings in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes.
2. Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
The amp of the battery is more important than the mah (especially if you are going to sub-ohm).
The below links are from Baditude (our resident battery/safety expert):
1. Battery Basics for Mods
- choose the safest and right battery for your applications here. Includes a list of name brand, high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries with mAh & amp ratings in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes.
2. Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
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I would say it does make a difference but not enough to change your decision. As the previous poster said, often times these ratings are not exact anyway, but i believe the mah is off more often then the voltage simply because voltage is easier to test. However if you do go with 3.6 instead of 3.7 use that number for calculations. For Watts= V^2 / Resistance so you will get Watts= 3.6x3.6/resistance or 12.96/resistance where as with the 3.7 you will get Watts=3.7x3.7/ resistance or 13.69/ resistance.
Now making up numbers for coils a 12.96/.3ohm=43.2watts and 13.69/.3ohm= 45.6watts 12.96/.8ohm=16.2watts 13.69/.8ohm= 17.11watts
Now as long as they are both the same type of battery. (Make sure both are Built-in Protected Circuit or both not when comparing, shouldn't need unless Stacking smaller 18350 I THINK!!! disregard but could read more if you want)
Personally I would go with the Panasonic simply for the mah but I have Efest batteries lol. I know they are a known brand in vaping but I think overpriced.
Now making up numbers for coils a 12.96/.3ohm=43.2watts and 13.69/.3ohm= 45.6watts 12.96/.8ohm=16.2watts 13.69/.8ohm= 17.11watts
Now as long as they are both the same type of battery. (Make sure both are Built-in Protected Circuit or both not when comparing, shouldn't need unless Stacking smaller 18350 I THINK!!! disregard but could read more if you want)
Personally I would go with the Panasonic simply for the mah but I have Efest batteries lol. I know they are a known brand in vaping but I think overpriced.
The nominal voltage is determined by the chemistry of the battery.
ONLY use IMR or Hybrid high drain batteries for vaping.
ONLY use IMR or Hybrid high drain batteries in a regulated mod.
DO NOT use a protected battery in a regulated mod
ONLY use IMR or Hybrid high drain batteries for vaping.
ONLY use IMR or Hybrid high drain batteries in a regulated mod.
DO NOT use a protected battery in a regulated mod
The difference between 3.7v and 3.6v batteries is typically chemistry....
Those panasonics are protected cells and only rated at 6.8amps... Your God box can draw up to 15amps... That's a disaster waiting to happen...
The Efests on the other hand are fine.... For what it's worth, Efest makes a 3100mAh that's rated at 20A I believe... which would be fine in your mod... Assuming that's REALLY what it can handle... But some of the Efest specs are way off... So research it first... If the life is really that important...
Those panasonics are protected cells and only rated at 6.8amps... Your God box can draw up to 15amps... That's a disaster waiting to happen...
The Efests on the other hand are fine.... For what it's worth, Efest makes a 3100mAh that's rated at 20A I believe... which would be fine in your mod... Assuming that's REALLY what it can handle... But some of the Efest specs are way off... So research it first... If the life is really that important...
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Always use the fully charged voltage of 4.2v in calculations.
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If this is the 3 battery 180w version, I'd use 3 18650 30a continuous discharge rate (CDR) batteries.
CDR is far more important than mah.
Orbtronic sx30 2100mah 30a cdr
Sony vtc4 2100mah 30a cdr
Xtar 2100mah 30a cdr - re wrapped vtc4
OK, inquiring minds want to know... why? Is this advice just based on the extra costs of such a battery or is there a technical reason? I have some batteries that "say" they are rated for 30A including the infamous purple EFest and work fine in my VV/VW mods. Some have learned the hard way about putting a battery in your pocket and then forgetting it is there until they put a ring of keys or something else that can short it in their pocket also. I don't know enough about batteries to fully understand what "protected" really means but could it be helpful in a situation of an unexpected pocket full of keys kind of short circuit? What does "protected" really mean? Anyone? Thanks in advance for any and all insight... much appreciated!
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The protection circuit on the battery interferes with the built in protection circuitry of the regulated APV.
Protected batteries have a pcb on top that triggers above 3.5a ~ 7.2a discharge, some also trigger at a cut off voltage low 2.5v & high 4.4v.
Most if not all protected batteries are not high drain safer chemistry IMR / hybrid making them unsuitable for vaping use.
You should never carry loose batteries, get some plastic battery cases to store / carry them in.
Protected batteries have a pcb on top that triggers above 3.5a ~ 7.2a discharge, some also trigger at a cut off voltage low 2.5v & high 4.4v.
Most if not all protected batteries are not high drain safer chemistry IMR / hybrid making them unsuitable for vaping use.
You should never carry loose batteries, get some plastic battery cases to store / carry them in.
A protection circuit on a Li-Ion battery typically indicates it is an ICR cell. ICR is a much more volatile chemistry and not recommended for vaping. When an ICR cell fails it will typically vent violently.
A protection circuit is designed to activate at a set current draw (amps), if the regulated mod draws more current than the circuit allows it will shut down. The real danger is when this protection circuit fails on an ICR and allows your regulated mod to draw more current than the battery can handle.
Protected cells simply means they have a circuit built into them (typically a disc under the wrapper on the positive side) that prevents the battery from discharging below a certain fixed level (usually 3.3v). The reason not to use them really has nothing to do with the protection... It's the fact that the REASON these cells have this protection is because they are ICR chemistry cells... These cells can be very dangerous if allowed to discharge below a certain threshold (generally 3v) and then recharged. Basically they can very easily overheat and explode. Likewise drawing high current off them can also cause them to do the same. Now you might be thinking, "Wait, if it's protected then that won't happen anyway". But it can... The protection circuit can fail, OR a battery can self-discharge as it's stored... So it can reach a critical level.
IMR batteries on the other hand can be discharged safely down to 2.5v. Even if they are over discharged they can usually be "kicked back". Worst case scenario they vent... Generally they don't explode into a large fireball with molton chunks of metal flying around as ICR cells can...
So in general, which battery would you rather have inches from your face? ICR or IMR?
Protected vs Unprotected batteries:
There are unsafe chemistry batteries which are packaged with a built in protection chip to avoid thermal runaway; they are marketed as 'protected' batteries. Failure in the protection chip can cause disaster.
Newer safe chemistry batteries do not require a protection chip. The 'IMR' type batteries are the safe chemistry batteries.
The voltage of a battery is a result of how it is made and the chemistry going on inside.
The batteries we use all have Lithium and some other material. When the battery is in use electrons move from one material to the other and while charging they go back the other way.
A battery fresh off a good charger will have a voltage of about 4.2. As you use it, or just let it sit, the voltage toes down. Sharply at first, then a long slow drop, and finally a fast drop at the end. If you go too far the battery will not be able to completely recharge, this also happens over the life, around 300 complete recharges, of a battery.
Our batteries say they are 3.7 volts. They are only 3.7 for a very short time as they go from 4.2 on down to around 3.2, where they start to get hurt. With the long gentle slope in the middle they spend a lot of their time around 3.7.
When you are calculating amps for a mechanical you use the voltage of a fresh battery, 4.2, to get the maximum value for amps.
For a regulated device it will say the max amps it will draw in its specs.
The batteries we use all have Lithium and some other material. When the battery is in use electrons move from one material to the other and while charging they go back the other way.
A battery fresh off a good charger will have a voltage of about 4.2. As you use it, or just let it sit, the voltage toes down. Sharply at first, then a long slow drop, and finally a fast drop at the end. If you go too far the battery will not be able to completely recharge, this also happens over the life, around 300 complete recharges, of a battery.
Our batteries say they are 3.7 volts. They are only 3.7 for a very short time as they go from 4.2 on down to around 3.2, where they start to get hurt. With the long gentle slope in the middle they spend a lot of their time around 3.7.
When you are calculating amps for a mechanical you use the voltage of a fresh battery, 4.2, to get the maximum value for amps.
For a regulated device it will say the max amps it will draw in its specs.
I think for a regulated device the amp limit specified is usually the amps on the output side.
When looking for a battery for a regulated mod, one should use the lower voltage limit of the battery:
example,
On a 50 watt regulated mod with a low voltage cutoff of 3 volts (I'm using 3 for simplicity)
Current drawn is at least: 50/3 = 16.666* = roundoff to 17 amps.
If you used 4.2 instead of 3 you would have gotten 50/4 = 12.5 amps;
a 15 amp battery would work while the battery is at high charge but you'd get problems as the battery voltage drops if you're running at 50 watts.
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